Grouse season is upon us, and suddenly plus fours and Purdeys are being donned by country folk and city bankers alike, as they once again head out for a day’s shooting. The tradition of the Glorious Twelfth dates back to Victorian times and remains one of the most popular days in the shooting season. For those who prefer to stay comfortably ensconced in London and have their meat plucked and slaughtered for them – thank you very much – 12 August also heralds the return of this uniquely-flavoured, tender meat to restaurant menus.

Grouse – a small, plump game bird unique to the moorlands of the British Isles – is the first to come into season and, therefore, the one you’re most likely to see on menus right now. It is traditionally roasted and served with game chips (crinkly crisp-like slices of deep-fried potato), bread sauce, watercress and fruity jelly. As always though, London’s chefs and restaurants are endlessly creative, with far more game options than grouse alone being added to menus this month. From fiery tandoors to foie gras-filled pies, here’s where to find the best game in London from the Glorious Twelfth onwards.

Ekstedt at The Yard, Westminster

Nordic culinary techniques are the perfect way to enhance British game meat, and Michelin-starred Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt has created a unique juniper-smoked grouse dish at Westminster’s Ekstedt at the Yard for Londoners to try. The restaurant – helmed by head chef Theres Andersson – celebrates bold and primal cooking, using just natural heat, soot, and ash to create classic Scandinavian flavours. Here, the grouse is carefully smoked over juniper wood to impart a distinct flavour, then served with celeriac purée, grilled blackberries, girolle mushrooms and a port jus. Enjoy this dish from 14-21 August, and pair with one of the restaurant’s unique volcanic wines – renowned for their salty and mineral undertones that work perfectly with game meat – for the full experience. 

3-5 Great Scotland Yard, SW1A 2HN, visit ekstedtattheyard.com

The Connaught Grill, Mayfair

From September, the historic grill room at The Connaught will be celebrating game season with a specially curated menu from executive chef, Ramiro Lafuente Martinez. Known for its tailored service with bespoke napkins and personal knife boxes, guests can expect the finest game dishes throughout the season, alongside theatrical touches courtesy of the restaurant’s silver trolley.

Martinez’ sample menu includes chicken liver parfait with blackberry and orange, and smoked squash pigeon potato tartlet with confit egg yolk to start. Larger plates include Guinea fowl consommé, beetroot ravioli with whiskey and black truffle, or the stand-out venison and foie gras pithivier presented with truffled mash potatoes. Round things off with deliciously indulgent puddings, like smoked vanilla soufflé with whiskey ice cream or a nutty cheese course for those who prefer a savoury finish. 

16 Carlos Place, W1K 2AL, visit the-connaught.co.uk

Kanishka, Mayfair

Kanishka – one of the most celebrated Indian restaurants in the capital – is kicking off game season with an array of specials created by executive chef Ashok Kumar. Featuring grouse, rabbit, venison and quail, all four dishes will be available on the menu from 12 August, alongside a whisky pairing from celebrated Indian whisky brand, Paul John. Start with a selection of small plates including grouse tikka pie, a twist on the house signature served with summer berry chutney, and Norfolk quail galettes with flaky warqi paratha and chilli tamarind caviar, while the Hiran Ki Boti – spiced fallow venison, pickled heritage carrots and rainbow swiss chard – is a must-try main course. 

17-19 Maddox Street, W1S 2QH, visit kanishkarestaurant.co.uk

La Poule au Pot, Belgravia

Belgravia’s beloved French restaurant La Poule au Pot will offer grouse sourced from the Yorkshire Dales from 14 August until the end of shooting season. Served daily with fresh vegetables, celeriac mash, and a rich game sauce, La Poule au Pot has served this signature grouse dish for more than 40 years – and it’s unsurprisingly become a neighbourhood favourite. Pair with the full-bodied Côte du Rhône and keep an eye out for red partridge on the menu in September, followed by pheasant and hare in October.

231 Ebury Street, SW1W 8UT, visit pouleaupot.co.uk

Highroad Social, Greenwich

Venture south to discover the debut neighbourhood restaurant from David O'Brien, formerly of Caprice Holdings, and sample delectable red grouse from the Yorkshire moors from 14 August. Head chef Fionnan Flood serves this alongside a baked sourdough crouton topped with a blend of shredded wing and thigh meat, enriched with chopped heart and liver seasoned with brandy. Accompanied by smooth cauliflower purée, butter-cooked girolle mushrooms, pickled blackberries, and a red wine jus, O’Brien suggests complementing the flavours with a glass of chilled 2022 Thirst Cinsault from South Africa – a refreshing wine with notes of cranberries and dark cherries, perfect for high summer.

178 Greenwich High Road, SE10 8NN, visit highroadsocial.com

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster

Thanks to its deep, robust flavour, game meat is a brilliant option for the rich, fragrant spices found in classic Indian cooking – so don’t be surprised to see it popping up at lots of fine dining South Asian restaurants. A long-time advocate for serving game throughout the season, acclaimed chef Vivek Singh looks to the ancient hunting traditions found in Indian history to shape his delicious game dishes each year. This August, sample Singh's Rajasthani spiced tandoori grouse breast, served with five-lentil tadka, cumin and garlic. Other game favourites on the menu throughout the year, however, include the clove-smoked Anjou squab pigeon with beetroot raita, pumpkin and peanut, and chargrilled Balmoral Estate venison loin, with dried lime and masala mash.

30-32 Great Smith Street, SW1P 3BU, visit cinnamonclub.com

Read more: London’s best oyster bars