Meet the chef: Yannick Alléno of Pavyllon London
We sit down with the French Michelin maestro to discuss his 17 restaurants, whopping 16 stars and what he’s learnt along the way
When the Michelin guide published its latest edition last month, there were some surprising names on the London list. However one that was not so surprising was Pavyllon London. Helmed by renowned French chef Yannick Alléno, whose 17 restaurants now collectively hold 16 Michelin stars, the restaurant in the Four Seasons at Park Lane opened just six months ago to critical acclaim – and rather predictably, added another star to his culinary crown.
What is surprising, however, is that Pavyllon is Alléno’s first foray into the capital. His career has seen him open outposts in his native France – Paris is home to his three Michelin-starred restaurant – as well as Dubai, Marrakesh and Monte-Carlo. But as other international chefs have discovered, such as Scandinavian chef Niklas Ekstedt and French pastry whizz Cedric Grolet, a restaurant in the capital is the way to cement your culinary reputation. And Pavyllon has done just that, as earning a star within six months of opening is a surefire way to show London you mean business.
That’s not to say the team found it easy; they’re just experts in their craft. And although from the outside it may seem like this star came naturally, Alléno is the first to admit that he never takes these awards for granted. “It’s always a challenge,” he explains. “We’re never sure, but we work our hardest to achieve great accolades like Michelin, paying the same attention to detail on every dish.”
Now one of the world’s most decorated living Michelin-starred chefs, Alléno wanted Pavyllon to offer an unique British expression of signature modern French dishes, showcasing a blend of culinary excellence from both cultures in dishes of confit scallop with pilaf rice, runny egg yolk raviole and seared venison fillet with port jus. Unlike its fellow Mayfair competitors, this isn’t a tasting-menu-only affair but a unique all-day destination offering breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner as well as a selection of signature menus.
Served in the baby-blue dining room or at the chef’s counter (we’d highly recommend the latter to have a front row seat to all the kitchen action), the imaginative Lunch in 55’ – five courses for £55.50 served in 55 minutes – answered London’s long-awaited call for a reasonable but delicious Michelin menu, while the Immersive Mayfair (four courses from £85) and the iconic Pavyllon Menu (six courses for £148) showcases the very best of Alléno’s cooking. It would be rude not to order the melt-in-the-mouth roasted duck magret with sweet daikon pickles and fluffy steamed comté cheese souffle – heaven.
A veteran in the cheffing game, how does Alléno manage such a vast portfolio and retain so many stars? We find out…
I grew up in a family of bistro owners in the suburbs of Paris. Inside the bistro, there was a big counter where everyone sat together – the owner and the staff – and it’s this spirit of sharing and conviviality that I wanted to recapture at Pavyllon London.
I’m grateful to have worked with so many established chefs in my career. Something I’ve taken from these experiences is the preciousness of the product, the importance of cooking techniques, and the perseverance to reach the goal you’ve set yourself. These are the qualities that I teach my teams and enable us to reach for the stars, as we did in London recently.
Each cuisine has its own culture and products – a tremendous asset we must remember. I’m particularly fond of French and Italian cuisine: the delicious flavours, rich history and fresh seasonal ingredients.
London is a city full of energy and I’d been wanting to open a restaurant here for a long time. I love the atmosphere and I wanted Pavyllon to speak to Londoners with an all-day long concept.
Pavyllon London takes inspiration from its sister, Pavyllon Paris, with the large counter being a focal point of the space as well as offering some of our most iconic dishes. However, there are also new dishes inspired by local British produce. What also sets it apart, of course, is the afternoon tea which has been really popular and our beautiful Bar Antoine, where you can find extraction-based cocktails.
It’s always a challenge. It can be demanding – we are constantly testing new approaches and working with our teams to ensure the best results. We’re never sure, but we work our hardest to achieve great accolades like Michelin, paying the same attention to detail on every dish.
Yes, because we want to appeal to the locals, so that they can come to Pavyllon London and feel like they are at home. My aim is a refined, neighbourhood style restaurant in Mayfair that welcomes everyone.
The products and suppliers. London is a tough market with so many fantastic restaurants, so we have to make sure we are at the top of our game.
The idea was to offer a quick lunch menu for those who want to eat in under one hour. The five courses served in 55 minutes has been a real hit. It’s a format that allows you to eat well and still have Michelin-starred experience, without spending three hours at the table! It’s perfect for quick lunchtime catch-ups with friends or business meetings.
The precision of the cooking, the harmony of the flavours and the personality of the chef in their dishes.
Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social is spectacular and I admire his special attention to local produce, executed with a real chef’s vision.
Our Surf and Turf is a must-have. At Pavyllon London, we make it with wagyu beef mille feuille and blue lobster tail with a choron sauce.
Visit pavyllonlondon.com
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