Meet the chef: Vitelio Reyes of Amazónico
Book for the flamboyant interiors and tableside theatrics, but stay for the food at Mayfair’s Amazónico overseen by group executive chef Vitelio Reyes
It’s no secret that party restaurants – boasting flamboyant interiors, an ever-changing roster of DJs and a late-night licence – often lack the wow-factor when it comes to the food. But as our editor can vouch for, Amazónico has all you’d expect from an Instagrammable party palace – and then some. Substance and flavour define the dishes here (according to said editor’s guest, the fillet steak was the best they’ve ever had) and that is largely down to the expertise of Amazónico’s group executive chef, Vitelio Reyes.
Intrinsic to this restaurant’s offering is its Latin-American DNA, which has become so infectious that Amazónico outposts have also cropped up in Madrid, Monte-Carlo and Dubai. It arrived, alongside its life-like peacocks and jungle-inspired interiors, on Mayfair’s Berkeley Square in 2022 and promises “a sensory journey through the Amazon”. And given you don’t have to embark on a flight to experience such an adventure, and the food is overseen by Venezuelan native Reyes, you can trust you’re in good hands.
South American cuisine is commonly defined by grilled meats, such as asados, bite-sized ceviche, vibrant, pasty-like empanadas and cheesy croquettes (or coxinhas) – to name just a few. And while most of these feature on Amazónico’s Mayfair menu, foodies will discover the menu is tinged with Japanese influences and British ingredients, showcased in the likes of yellowtail hamachi, nigiri and sashimi, and dishes such as Dover crab with a spicy cassava cake in tomatillo sauce, and Scottish lobster, Peruvian corn cake and oscietra caviar. Reyes’ signature dishes, however, come in the form of aguachile – Mexican-style stone bass ceviche with avocado cream and jalapeño – and no less than 12 different cuts of charcoal-grilled meats, ranging from £30 to £175.
So, how has this party restaurant nailed both the atmosphere and food? We catch up with Reyes to discover his favourite Latin-American dishes, top London restaurants and how his childhood ties to Venezuela still inspire his cooking.
My childhood in Venezuela was truly delightful. It was a place of constant sunshine, surrounded by lots of natural beauty. Every opportunity to spend time with my family and head to the beach was cherished.
As for my desire to become a chef, I believe it’s something that has always been ingrained in me. The passion for creating and savouring delicious food, as well as everything that revolves around a table filled with plentiful dishes, has been a fundamental part of who I am [and my childhood].
One of my most vivid food memories is from a special family celebration in my hometown of Caracas, Venezuela. My parents took my siblings and me to an Italian restaurant, and what made it unforgettable was that they exclusively offered a tasting menu [which was rare at the time]. The experience was amazing, and the flavours from that meal have stayed with me ever since.
I worked in several restaurants in Caracas where, like many other South American towns and cities, French and Spanish culinary traditions often influenced the kitchen culture. One of the significant milestones in my culinary journey was my time at a restaurant called Biarritz Bistro. This establishment specialised in classic French dishes like torchon de foie gras and crepe Suzette, among others. It was at Biarritz Bistro that I honed the fundamentals of my culinary skills, laying the foundation for my future career.
It was the chance to showcase South American cuisine at its finest, using the highest-quality ingredients available worldwide. Our menus are influenced by the diverse culinary journeys I’ve experienced throughout South America over the years, and we aim to take our guests on a similar culinary journey along the Amazon River.
Our menu features a wide variety of seasonal British ingredients. One of our standout dishes is the Zapallo: a roasted seasonal pumpkin served with cashew cream and wagyu ham. It’s a great combination that captures the spirit of the season.
One of my other favourite London restaurants is Maison Francois. It stands out for its impeccable service, always attentive to the diners and its cuisine offers classic French dishes with a modern twist.
I’m also quite impressed with Manteca in Shoreditch at the moment. Chef David Carter’s commitment to the nose-to-tail concept is very impressive. The restaurant offers a relaxed and inviting atmosphere, and the food is nothing short of outstanding.
I could indulge in the aguachile and pan de queijo – Brazilian cheese bread – every day.
Visit amazonicorestaurant.com
