Meet the Chef: Tom Fraser of Scott’s Richmond
Having worked for the famed Mayfair seafood restaurant for 14 years, Tom Fraser left the only kitchen he had ever known to steer the brand’s new Richmond outpost to success. Here’s how he’s getting on…
Scott’s has long held a starry reputation in London. The seafood restaurant, which first made a name for itself in Mayfair, has the kind of storied history most restaurants can’t even come close to competing with. Born as ‘Scott’s oyster rooms’ in Haymarket in 1851 (making it one of the five oldest restaurants in London), it became a popular social hub in the West End in the early 20th century. Fast forward to the 1960s, and it made a momentous move to Mayfair’s Mount Street and there it has remained, attracting some of the most famous people in the world to try its signature fruit de mer, from former US President Bill Clinton to actor Tom Cruise.
So, when it was rumoured that Scott’s was to open a new outpost in Richmond in 2022, it was big news on the capital’s food scene. Miles away from the pomp and pageantry of Mayfair – and the glamorous history affiliated with the neighbourhood – how was Scott’s 2.0 going to fare?
Well, it would seem. Catering for roughly 600 covers per day, Scott’s Richmond is spread across two floors and brings the old-world glamour of the original to a new riverside setting. It includes that all-important oyster bar and, most recently, a pop-up bar from luxury private members’ club Harry’s, bringing a slice of Mayfair straight to Richmond.
At the helm is Tom Fraser, who knows the brand inside-out, having first started at the Mayfair restaurant in 2008 as chef de partie. Having climbed the ranks to senior sous chef, he was chosen to captain the new culinary ship in Richmond, which he thinks of as ‘the cooler younger sister’. We find out more…
I grew up in Chelmsford, Essex. When I was 15, my mum got me a job as a kitchen porter in a local pub and I found the energy and organised chaos in the kitchen addictive! I found myself asking for more and more shifts and working there with any spare time I had and this is when I fell in love with the kitchen.
Up until the age of six I lived with my grandparents and I remember baking rock cakes with my nan in her kitchen and being allowed to lick the spoon afterwards. My grandad was such a keen gardener and grew some fruit at the bottom of the garden. I remember picking rhubarb for crumbles and blackcurrants to make summer fruit puddings.
I started as a kitchen porter at the local pub. I naturally progressed through the kitchen, eventually cooking up the main menu. It was simple pub food, such as haddock and chips, beef bourguignon and treacle sponge, and I absolutely loved it.
My first job in London was at Scott’s Mayfair – that’s where my journey began really. I remember my trial shift and I’d never seen anything like it. Huge trays of live rock crabs and langoustines being carried through the kitchen; stock pots of bisque and veal stock simmering on the stove; piles of scallops being cleaned! I loved the discipline of the kitchen and was blown away by it all, it really is addictive.
I’d say cooking fish and shellfish are definitely my favourite things to cook, so working at Scott’s with the huge variety that we have on the menu, I feel very fortunate to be able to work with such incredible produce each day and at such a prestigious restaurant.
On top of that, a monthly-changing menu means that we are always looking at new ideas and dishes and changing things up so I can get creative. Our chef director, Tim Hughes, really encourages creativity, which allows the team to learn and develop new techniques. A different daily fish special everyday keeps the team constantly looking for new ideas and inspiration.
On a busy weekend, we can easily sell over 500 scallops and 100 Dover sole. We get our crab, cockles and clams from Portland shellfish and the quality is second to none. We use Wright brothers for our oysters and I call their office in Devon every morning to see what’s landed. It’s then in our kitchen the following morning and on the menu for guests to enjoy. We get a lot of our fish from Capital seafoods – they send us exceptional quality fish, and because we’ve used them for years, they know exactly what we are looking for.
Both menus have the classic dishes like grilled Dover sole or lobster Thermidor, however, they both have their own identity. The menu here at Richmond is a little more casual and a little more edgy – like the cooler younger sister!
I love our scallop dish at the moment. We serve them in the shell with a spicy kimchi butter and top them with our own furikake and spring onions.
I love Sabor. It’s always amazing food and has a great atmosphere. Get stuck in, share everything, and enjoy the night.
I also ate at Behind a little while ago and it’s been stuck in my mind ever since. Andy Benyon serves a fish-focused tasting menu and the food is absolutely incredible.
Visit scotts-richmond.com
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