Meet the chef: Simon Gregory of The Ivy Asia
Born in 2018, The Ivy Asia is now one of the most notable restaurant groups in the UK. We catch up with executive chef Simon Gregory to discover what life is like in the kitchen
It’s not often that accoladed culinary careers start on a whim, but that was the reality for Simon Gregory. Having, quite literally, woken up one day and decided to be chef, Gregory embarked on a journey that has seen him go from door-knocking for work experience to being at the helm of one of the most celebrated restaurant brands in the UK: The Ivy Asia.
The Ivy has been a seasoned stalwart on London’s dining scene since it first opened in 1917. When the Covent Garden original was acquired by Richard Caring in 2005, outposts began cropping up across the UK, from Exeter to Edinburgh, replicating the OG’s offering of quality British food with an elevated experience. Today it is one of the most popular chains in the UK because, after all, you can never go wrong with The Ivy.
In 2018 the chain expanded its offering into the realms of ever-popular Asian cuisine with the launch of the first Ivy Asia in Manchester before soon opening outposts in the capital, and, much like its sister, it has gone from strength to strength. Samurai warriors, vibrant wallpapers and green marble flooring have become signatures of The Ivy Asia’s aesthetic, bolstering the theatrical experience its customers have come to know and love. Even its fish-shaped chopstick holders have gone viral.
Despite the impressive, somewhat outlandish, interiors, the focal point of The Ivy Asia was always going to be the food. Elevated Asian classics is the bill of fare here and it’s fair to say executive chef Gregory delivered, having been at the helm since the chain opened and overseeing its expansion in the capital – Mayfair and Chelsea, to be precise – as well as across the UK with outposts in Brighton, Cardiff, Guildford and Leeds. Scan the menu and you’ll find traditional Eastern dishes such as yellowtail sashimi, tuna and black truffle maki, and aromatic duck salad with mango, as well as signature plates including the popular miso black cod, wagyu beef with shitake mushrooms, and barbecued lamb cutlets with kimchi and gochujang glaze.
From navigating the culinary world in his native Sydney to working for Michelin-starred restaurants in London, Gregory’s been there and done it when it comes to the fast-paced world of the kitchen. We caught up with him to discuss his highs and lows, where he likes to dine in the capital and his plans for the future of The Ivy Asia.
I grew up in both Sydney and a country town called Tamworth in New South Wales, Australia, where I spent time around big cattle properties and farmland. I originally wanted to play professional rugby, complete a degree in economics and work in finance. Then, one day I woke up and decided to work in hospitality, which was a huge surprise to those closest to me, but I’ve never looked back!
A Sunday roast at my grandmother’s home; she was a very good cook. The whole day was about food from start to finish. My grandma had grown up during the Great Depression so she didn’t waste anything. For example, the potatoes were always cooked in the fat from the previous weekend’s roast. She had her little cookbook that had been her mother’s and her grandmother’s before that with incredible pudding recipes, so we always ended our meal with something sweet after a delicious roast. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, not many people were cooking like this in Sydney.
I started cooking in Sydney in the mid 1990s. I had no experience, nor culinary training, just a passion for cooking. I wrote letters to the top five restaurants in Sydney at the time and offered to work for a week for free in each one. They all offered me a job after, so I was fortunate enough to be able to choose which one I liked the most: Catalina in Rose Bay on Sydney Harbour. It’s one of Sydney’s most iconic restaurants and has been for more than 30 years. It was and always will be a restaurant very close to my heart.
My first steps into the industry began at Catalina, then Est (also in Sydney) before moving to London in 2003 to work for the three Michelin star Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. I also had the opportunity to work at The French Laundry in California and Gramercy Tavern in New York.
I’d admired from a distance the initial openings and expansion surrounding The Ivy Brasseries, which really impressed me. One day, I received a call from a former colleague who I’d worked closely with in the Ramsay Group who told me he had an exciting opportunity within a new concept at The Ivy. Once I [discovered it was] The Ivy Asia, I jumped at the opportunity! It’s truly a wonderful brand to be working for.
It’s a very important role not to be taken lightly. It’s also not about any one person; we have an incredibly talented team on every level, from restaurant staff to support office teams, which enable us to do our jobs successfully. Ultimately, in any role, you become a custodian of a business for the period in which you work there. The hope that you future proof and develop a business for its long term success after you leave is the real testament to how successful you were during your time there.
The goal was to create a menu that would keep guests coming back, but it’s also about the whole dining experience and not just a menu. I work closely with my team, and we bounce ideas back and forth until we find something that we know our guests would love. We then go through a fairly vigorous tasting programme until we’re all happy with the end result. It’s a long process, but so rewarding when we see our guests enjoying the food.
One of my favourites would be a dessert we call ‘Red Dragon’ which is ultimately a selection of our most-loved desserts, including soft serve ice cream, cinnamon-sugared doughnuts, peanut brittle, honeycomb, and fresh fruit with a chocolate dipping sauce. I wanted to create a version of soft serve ice cream and toppings that would be suitable for this concept. It took a long time to get right, however, I now believe we have something that is both visually amazing and delicious to eat.
With any business we will always keep developing the brands to ensure they stay relevant whilst continuing to grow the concept and style of restaurants. We are always looking to find new opportunities, and this is fundamentally key to the ongoing success of the brands.
It would have to be Chez Bruce. My wife and I spent many fine evenings at this spot when we lived in Wandsworth and then we had our wedding there. It’s one of those places that simply cooks beautiful food in a beautiful dining room with a wonderful guest experience.
Rather than simply the chefs, I am very impressed with people who develop concepts. These normally start on a very small scale and then expand, and often the [people at the helm] don’t have formal culinary training but a dream and a vision. For example, David Carter from Smokestak and Manteca; Tomos Parry from Brat and Mountain; and Anna Higham from Quince Bakery.
I spend most of my time away from work with my kids for weekends full of sport, family barbecues in the summer and escaping to the coast for weekends away. I’m also a huge Harlequins rugby fan so enjoy going to see matches with both family and friends when I can.
Visit theivyasia.com
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