With New York Fashion Week kicking off on 9 February 2024, the industry is gearing up for a packed AW24 fashion month. And while a reliance on viral gimmicks over properly solid fashion design seems to be going nowhere – leaving many an insider jaded – earlier this month Haute Couture Week infused a reinvigorated excitement for fashion into the zeitgeist. As we continue dreaming about Galliano’s romantic-historical fantasies fuelled by corsetry, lace, and tulle and the sensual femininity that emerged from Simone Rocha’s turn at Jean Paul Gaultier, this renewed hype for the power of design has added exhilarating anticipation for the month ahead.
The excitement is hardly misplaced this season. Irish designer Seán McGirr will showcase his first collection for Alexander McQueen in Paris since taking over from Sarah Burton last September. At Blumarine, ex-Tod’s designer Water Chiapponi will make his debut, while Matteo Tamburini succeeds him at Tod’s. With Dunhill returning to London Fashion Week and Thom Browne making a New York return, there’s plenty to look forward to this fashion month.
From high-profile debuts and rising star designers to the spectacles everyone will be talking about, scroll on for your AW24 fashion month cheat sheet to keep tabs on everything you need to know this season.
New York Fashion Week: 9-14 February 2024
Where AW23 felt underwhelming in its lineup of designers, this season’s schedule is packed with an exciting roster of seasoned names and younger designers alike. A definite highlight is sure to be Peter Do, whose sophomore collection as creative director of Helmut Lang will kick things off on 9 February. Do’s minimal edge played well with the house’s stripped-back design codes and the second runway show will make for an interesting study.
Among other highly anticipated shows, Tommy Hilfiger returns to the calendar, promising a show that’ll be an ode to New York. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, previously the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, will showcase his eponymous label at NYFW – a first-time departure from his usual showcase at Paris Fashion Week. Another show to bookmark will be Willy Chavarria, who infuses his Mexican-American cultural heritage into his impeccable tailoring.
NYFW mainstays including Area, Proenza Schouler, Gabriela Hearst, LaQuan Smith, and Tory Burch will be back to showcase their collections. Thom Browne also marks his return to the calendar with the finale show, a fitting slot for the American designer, who is also the chairman of CFDA.
London Fashion Week: 16-20 February 2024
Marking its 40th year, London Fashion Week, which has always been a playground for emerging designers, promises an intriguing mix of designers next week. Amidst the packed schedule, the show making serious waves is Burberry, marking Daniel Lee’s third runway show at the helm of the house. Following last season’s marketing tactic of rebranding Bond Street as Burberry Street, the British brand recently illuminated Harrods with its signature knight blue hue this month. We wait with bated breath to see what Lee has up his sleeve for the actual show.
Another iconic British brand, Dunhill, will return to the schedule for the first time since 2020, marking a first for newly appointed creative director Simon Holloway. Dunhill joins numerous homegrown brands that have become international sensations courtesy of London Fashion Week, including JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, Ahluwalia, Molly Goddard, and Roksanda.
Of course, it wouldn’t be London Fashion Week is there weren’t fresh new names to discover too. Look out for new collections by Conner Ives, KNWLS, Kazna Asker and Aaron Esh. As always, Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion will showcase their bright new talents in group shows.
Milan Fashion Week: 20-26 February 2024
At Milan, gear up for new creative director debuts with former Loewe designer Adrian Appiolaza showcasing his first for Moschino and ex-Bottega Veneta designer Matteo Tamburini for Tod’s. The season will also witness Walter Chiapponi’s first collection for Blumarine – with many expecting a slight departure from the label’s signature Y2K aesthetic.
Emerging London-based designer Feben will also present her collection supported by Dolce & Gabbana while Geoff Cooper’s Caribbean-inspired label Sagaboi, which debuted at London Fashion Week in AW23, will also present in Milan this year.
After a grand debut last season, Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno will present his second womenswear collection as will Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford. Marni is also returning to Milan after previous shows in Tokyo, Paris, and New York. Other shows to bookmark are heavy hitters Prada, Fendi, Diesel, Ferragamo, Max Mara, and Jil Sander, alongside Matthieu Blazy, who will be presenting his new co-ed collection for Bottega Veneta.
Paris Fashion Week: 26 February - 5 March 2024
Paris makes for a fittingly grand farewell to fashion month with the city playing host to some of the most anticipated shows. The Alexander McQueen show on 2 March is undoubtedly the one most insiders are looking forward, offering up Irish designer Seán McGirr’s first for the label since taking over from Sarah Burton. With Burton’s work much-admired among the fashion crowd, expectations are very, very high.
As always, Paris regulars this season include Dior, Chanel, Miu Miu, Saint Laurant, and Hermès, all of which are sure to provide spectacles worthy of virality (and, hoepfully, some really great clothes). The closing show is set to be Louis Vuitton. With creative director Nicolas Ghesquière marking ten years at the French house, this collection stands to be an amalgamation of his glamorous tenure.