Most foodies will tell you that the best way to get to know a destination is through its native cuisine but, in reality, travellers often fall into one of two categories: those who research restaurants and make dinner reservations months in advance and those who rarely venture beyond their hotel. I am decidedly one of the former, scoffing derisively at the idea of dining at the same restaurant night after night. Accordingly, my Santorini itinerary was packed with traditional tavernas and chic modern cafés long before I stepped on the plane – until I arrived at Magma Resort, that is.

A short drive from Santorini airport, Magma Resort is set on the lava-formed slopes of Vourvoulos in the north-eastern part of the island. Within moments of being ushered into the resort’s black stone lobby, I found myself sipping on a cocktail of melon, lemon, herbs and Greek O/Purist tsipouro spirit. Refreshing and delicious, it set the tone for the local flavours the resort’s skilled team would plate up over the course of my stay. 

Nestled among vineyards with stunning views of the Aegean Sea, the hotel’s interiors stand out from the white-washed Cycladic architecture found across most five-star hotels on the island. Elegantly minimal interiors come alive in a neutral palette of black, copper and rust-hued accents and furnishings. True to its name, black volcanic rock clads the exteriors across Magma’s suites, reception and pool area, while bright flowerbeds and clusters of needlegrass soften the refined design scheme.

Magma’s 59 rooms and suites are spacious sunny sanctuaries with floor-to-ceiling sliding doors which flood the rooms with light and offer panoramic views of the sea. Interiors are rendered in earthy hues, with stone surfaces and light wood and black furnishings, while each room also boasts a private outdoor space with either a plunge pool or Jacuzzi, perfect for enjoying Santorini’s famed sunsets.

The dazzling surrounds provide the perfect backdrop for an al fresco sundowner at the hotel’s Bar on the Rocks. Here Nikos Sourbatis, former head bartender at The Clumsies in Athens which ranks among the World’s 50 Best Bars, has curated an unpretentious menu centred around local ingredients. The Hugo 2.0, blended with elderflower, thyme, honey and sparkling wine, is a clear highlight. If you don’t see your favourite tipple on the menu, the mixologists are happy to oblige, shaking up both classics and personalised drinks that don’t disappoint. Oenophiles, meanwhile, can delight in private wine tastings with the in-house sommeliers, who will introduce a variety of native bottles. Our highlights included a fruity rosé from renowned Macedonian winery Alpha Estate and an elegant red from the Zafeirakis winery in Thessaly.

For a true taste of Greece, however, head to the hotel’s restaurant, Colombo, where chef Lefteris Soultatos offers up an array of meat and seafood dishes highlighting the region’s flavours through lashings of olive oil, capers and dill. From decadent breakfasts – think croissants and champagne – to relaxed lunches, pick from a comprehensive casual all-day menu. While the fresh fish of the day served with lemon dressing is a must, you would be remiss not to order the lamb with celery root puree and crispy potatoes or the tender octopus tentacle with kimchi cabbage.

By night, the restaurant transforms into the refined Magma Soul, where you can watch a five-course parade of meat and vegan plates prepared in the open kitchen before arriving at your table with expert wine pairings. The highlight? The subtly seasoned beef short-rib served on a bed of orzo and tomato sauce – simple, moreish and delicious. Elsewhere, tuck into fried puff pastry tart shells stuffed with wild greens and Xigalo cheese, and souvlaki with a selection of beef fillet, Iberico pork neck, red prawn and scallops, before ending with a creamy Cretan cheesecake.

Need a break from all the indulgence? Start your day at the hotel’s open air yoga studio before spending an afternoon by the infinity pool gazing out over stony fields, grape vines and the glittering sea in the distance. Retreat to the Lava Spa, the hotel’s centre for R&R, for a soothing approach to wellness grounded in nature. Therapists offer a range of body and facial treatments utilising natural products: a sea foam massage soothes the skin while the healing shell massage uses real shells to eliminate muscle tension and calm the nervous system. Relax in the cave-like treatment rooms post-massage with a soothing cup of herbal tea or re-energise at the state-of-the-art gym, heated pool and sauna.

Beyond the hotel’s walls, Santorini is a treasure trove of history and culture, and Magma makes a great base from which to explore the island. You’ll find the shopping town of Fira ten minutes away while the rustic streets of nearby Vourvoulos are great for immersing yourself in local culture. Call on Magma’s concierge for unique itineraries designed to help you experience the best of Santorini or hop on the complimentary shuttle service to Exo Yalos beach, where the resort has secured the best spot from which to soak up the rays, head to neighbouring island Thirassia or enjoy a day cruising the coastline.

Sure, you could bask in the sunset’s golden glow from most hotels on the island, but if gastronomy is the cornerstone of your ideal holiday, few can match Magma’s exquisite menus? Add to that extensive amenities and attentive staff and you’ve got an under-the-radar gem you’ll want to revisit again and again. 

From £272 per night, visit magmaresortsantorini.com

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