Pomalo living: it’s a Croatian state of mind. Much like their Italian neighbours’ adage of dolce far niente – meaning the ‘sweetness of doing nothing’ – the Croat’s take is pomalo, which translates as ‘take it easy’. It’s the unofficial slogan of the Dalmatian coastline: the hilly, sun-baked, island-dotted western edge of Croatia which spans from the island of Rab in the north to the Montenegro border in the south, featuring pit stops at Croatia’s most beautiful coastal cities along the way, including Šibenik, Split and Dubrovnik. 

It’s the latter which claims to have its very own riviera, much in the same way as the French with their starry Côte d’Azur and the Italians with their colourful Cinque Terre fishing villages and chic resorts in Portofino. But, for a while at least, it seemed that not many tourists were aware of the Dubrovnik Riviera. The golden beaches, enchanting islands, sapphire waters and charming historical towns stretching along the 20km coast between Dubrovnik and Cavtat were simply reserved for those in the know. Until now. 

It’s not to say that Croatia isn’t famous for its tourism; it’s one of the most visited destinations in the Mediterranean with 18.9 million travellers touching down each year. But many flock to the capital of Zagreb, the party island of Hvar (deep pockets willing) or the sandy regions of Split. Dubrovnik, on the other hand, stereotypically attracted history buffs, architectural aficionados and Game of Thrones fans – until word got out about its five-star hospitality, exceptional seafood restaurants and impressive cultural programme. After all, there’s a lot more than just Dubrovnik’s city walls to explore… 

But first, somewhere to stay. Tourists are truly spoiled for choice in Dubrovnik, with a vast proportion of the terracotta-roofed hills above transformed from family homes into holiday rentals, alongside five-star establishments lining the city’s coastal approach. But if you’re looking for a stylish home from home, boasting an authentic taste of the Dubrovnik Riviera with breathtaking views to boot, there’s only one choice: Hotel Excelsior. 

One of 12 in the Adriatic Luxury Hotels portfolio, Hotel Excelsior is one of Croatia’s most famous establishments. Built in 1913, the six-storey property boasts unrivalled views across Dubrovnik’s fortress and a panoramic perspective of the Adriatic Sea that envelopes it, with the pine-clad island of Lokrum directly in its sightline. 

The views are enough to make anyone book, but it’s the hotel itself that will make you want to return. Impeccable service starts as soon as you walk through the glass doors – the kind which has also catered for royal and celebrity guests such as Queen Elizabeth II and Elizabeth Taylor – and will follow you everywhere at your discretion. Sleek and stylish interiors – think wood-panelled walls, king-size beds and magenta and royal blue-hued furnishings – feature in all 158 bedrooms, as do sink-in bathtubs, rainfall showers and double vanities in the ensuite bathrooms. 

To wake up to that glorious view each morning, ensure you book a sea-facing abode. Early risers will not only catch the sun slowly elevating above the shimmering bay of Dubrovnik, but will also spot kayakers in the bay and wildlife lifting its wings from Lokrum – one of the Dalmatian coastline’s many uninhabited islands which have become naturistic playgrounds for adventure-seeking Croats. 

Before arriving in Croatia, I heard many people say they found it hard to pinpoint the country’s cuisine. If my experience is anything to go by, they probably just didn’t know where to look (or book). Croatia, and in particular the Dalmatian coastline, is famed for its seafood, caught daily in the Adriatic Sea and often simply splashed with lemon, olive oil and sea salt before being grilled, barbecued or cooked ‘under the bell’: a traditional Croatian technique where meat or fish roasts over open flames using an iron-shaped bell. 

If you’re not willing to take a punt on one of Dubrovnik town’s (admittedly) numerous tourist-trap restaurants, Hotel Excelsior is home to four eateries of its own: Sensus Fine Dining, offering Croatian classics such as lobster tortelloni, Salin for a delicious buffet breakfast, Abakus Piano Bar and Terrace, one of the best sea-view bars in the city, and finally Prora. Set on the lower limestone terrace – adjacent to the seawater pool and prime sunbathing spots in the day – waves splash mere metres from diners while white-clothed and candlelit tables play host to plates of incredibly fresh seafood. Executive chef Peter Obad has created an array of sumptuous dishes best enjoyed by the sea from which they were caught that day, including octopus carpaccio, sea bream tartare, roast squid and the Fisherman’s Platter, comprising white fish fillet, swordfish skewer, prawns, scallops and mussels. 

While there’s plenty to keep you occupied in the hotel itself (the spa, indoor pool and gym are also worth a visit), it’s essential to take a trip into Dubrovnik Old Town. Just a 10-minute walk and you’ll find yourself at Ploče Gate, located on the east side of the city. The winding walkways take you into the centre, but to understand the town’s storied past – from being a tributary state during the Ottoman Empire to the devastating 1667 earthquake which almost destroyed the entire city – it’s best to learn from the locals, and they don’t come much more knowledgeable than Vedran Mezei. 

Having grown up in Dubrovnik and been witness to Croatia’s devastating homeland wars – the Croatian War of Independence was fought from 1991 to 1995 between independent Croats forces and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People’s Army – Mezei is skilled at tactfully guiding you through Dubrovnik Old Town and its history, showcasing the preserved medieval architecture, baroque buildings and limestone passageways famously featured in the Games of Thrones. Only with local tips and tricks, however, can you discover curiosities such as the second oldest pharmacy in the world, tucked behind an unassuming church and still serving the surrounding community with rich face creams based on a 1317 recipe. 

Must-see spots in the UNESCO-listed city include the gothic-renaissance Rector’s Palace, Sponza Palace (the oldest building to survive the 1667 earthquake), St Blaise’s Church, adorned with the city’s patron saint, and museums dedicated to commemorating those lost in recent conflict: Dubrovnik During The Homeland War, housed in Napoleonic Fort Imperial, and War Photo Limited, curated by New Zealand photojournalist Wade Goddard, who worked in the Balkans in the 1990s. 

Elsewhere, you can climb the city’s high walls (for a fee) to reward yourself with a picturesque birds-eye view of Dubrovnik’s terracotta roofs or take the cable car 778 metres up for yet another undisturbed, astonishing panorama. Fine-dining foodies will love Posat restaurant, located just outside Pile Gate and famed for its fresh seafood and open-air setting, as well as the Michelin-starred 360 Restaurant by Ploče Gate: the most expensive restaurant in Dubrovnik. 

Should you wish to explore the riviera further, and we suggest you do, take a trip to Dubrovnik’s charming little sister, Cavtat. Hemmed by mountains and lush pine and cypress forests, it’s just 19km from Dubrovnik and boasts an artistic past (it’s the birthplace of famed painter Vlaho Bukovac) as well as five-star accommodation in the form of Hotel Croatia and Hotel Supetar. The latter has tapped into the area’s creative core by launching a new Artist in Residence series, where local talents showcase their work. Currently on display is Dubrovnik-born, Goldsmith-trained contemporary artist Iva Laterza Obuljen, famous for her colourful abstract paintings. 

No trip to the Dubrovnik Riviera would be complete without a splash in the azure bays of the Elaphiti Islands. Hugging the west coast of Croatia, the archipelago comprises 13 islands – Šipan, Koločep and Lopud among the largest of them – and speedboat trips helmed by local skippers can be arranged by Hotel Excelsior. Sparkling swim stops at sandy inlets and deeper caves start the day, before stopping off at Lopud, once an island getaway for Croatia’s aristocracy and now home to just a couple hundred inhabitants, for lunch at La Villa. Served under a vine canopy to the sound of waves lapping the sandy shore, prepare for a seafood feast fit for a king with plates of langoustine ceviche, spiny lobster tail, sauteed shrimps in white bean cream and scallops with foie gras to fuel your day at sea. 

After all, this is just another day on the Dubrovnik Riviera. It’s relaxed, unfussed, simple and fulfilling – and it’s here that I truly understand what the Croat’s mean by pomalo. That sense of effortless ease is part of their way of life, embodied in its people, culture and coast. And it’s what will be pulling me back to Croatia again and again. 

Rooms from £240 per night including breakfast, visit adriaticluxuryhotels.com

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