Meet the chef: Graham Squire of The Dining Room at The Goring
What’s it like to be at the helm of one of the most prestigious hotel restaurants in the country? We find out…
The Goring is not so much a hotel as a London institution. Having first opened its doors in 1910, the establishment at Beeston Place became known for its white-gloved service, opulent design and high society guestbook, cementing its status as a favourite among the Royal Family and the only hotel in the world to hold a Royal Warrant.
It’s among many other five-star stalwarts on London’s hotel scene that seem to be unwavering. The Dorchester is one, alongside Claridge’s, The Berkeley, Brown’s, The Langham and The Savoy to name just a few. No matter what crisis or trend hits the capital, these establishments rightfully and thankfully weather the storm. But everyone has their favourite, and for many, it’s The Goring.
It certainly seems that way for Graham Squire, executive chef at the hotel’s Dining Room. Having spent seven years in the kitchens at Claridge’s, Squire was sure that he had left London behind for a slower pace of life in the Sussex countryside where he set up a country pub. But then The Goring invited him to join its culinary team in 2019 – and when The Goring calls, you answer.
Four years into his tenure at The Dining Room, Squire is constantly evolving the menu to keep the restaurant’s historic reputation not just alive, but exciting and fresh. The Michelin-starred restaurant recently launched a series of supper clubs to offer its guests something different, and is also famous for its afternoon tea offering and themed menus (The Dining Room created a new bill of fare for the King’s Coronation earlier this year).
So, are you ready to get to know the chef behind one of the most famous restaurants in the UK? Step right this way into The Goring’s Dining Room…
Image Zodee Media
I have always loved cooking, I used to help my grandmother cook Sunday roast when I was small. I was given the duty of gravy stirring, which when you are young is such a big responsibility!
I remember when I was 10 my grandmother made me a steak and kidney suet pudding in the shape of a football, it blew my mind.
I was trained at Bournemouth and Poole College’s specialised chef programme run by the Academy of Culinary Arts. It was from here that I was sent to train at Claridge’s hotel, which is a big ask at 16, but an incredible experience. The bright lights of London fast track your development and maturity.
Image: Ben Carpenter
Claridge’s as well as Le Manoir and the Michelin-starred Trinity in London. I also had the opportunity to travel across the globe for competitions which really expanded my culinary repertoire.
Like any good established kitchen, it is the brigade that supports the figurehead that’s impressive.
After opening the Lickfold Inn pub, now named The Three Horseshoes, in West Sussex I wasn’t looking to come back to London. However, the family ethos and attention to detail at The Goring really connected with me. It’s a very special established hotel that found its groove in 1910 and is unshakeable throughout any crisis, pandemic and fashionable trend.
Quality beautiful produce from the British Isles and the young senior team, their passion and drive really are inspirational.
The size of the team, especially at The Goring, and the teamwork is incredible. The opportunity to do pop-ups such as supper clubs like the Fortnum and Mason series this year, as well as wacky features like Teddy the Shetland pony with his bespoke stable digs, makes it such an interesting place to work [compared to restaurants I’ve worked in]. There is always something to be working on.
My favourite dish is the heritage tomatoes, tamarillo, black olive, tomato focaccia and basil. I love this dish so much that I put it on The Goring Garden Menu at the Fortnum and Mason supper club. It is a perfect example of using British ingredients such as early Isle of Wight tomatoes and combining it with delicate European influences that create a balanced dish that guests really enjoy.
Images: Zodee Media
There are so many great London restaurants at the minute. Humble Chicken by Angelo Sato really stands out. He has adapted the restaurant that opened up just after the pandemic and is now cooking the food that is really his core values but is done so beautifully, refined and polished. The food is stunning.
My head chef Anthony Billon is doing some amazing things at The Goring, providing true support and assisted drive that really fuels the creative fires. It’s an absolute pleasure to lead the team we have and makes it easy to deliver the day to day.
Visit thegoring.com
Read more: Meet the chef: Tom Booton of The Grill at The Dorchester
