Signature style: Why every modern man should own a signet ring
No longer just a dusty family heirloom, the contemporary signet ring has become a style statement in its own right
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Signet rings: whether or not you own one probably depends not on your own style sensibilities but rather, that of your father, grandfather or even great-grandfather. “Historically, gentlemen would wear this type of ring to imprint their insignia into wax on an official document, essentially acting as their signature (hence the name),” explains Anna Williams of jewellery brand Tateossian. “In the modern era, of course, your signature can usually be found under the phrase ‘Kind regards’, making this practical use of a signet ring obsolete.”
And yet the style has persisted, with a new crop of contemporary, independent designers putting their own twist on the genre. On the one hand, argues Michael Saiger, CEO and owner of Miansai, this could be precisely because of the design’s history and its connotations. “They have emotional value,” he says. “Signets are those pieces that are passed down through generations, making them heirloom accessories that hold profound, familial meaning to the wearer.”
Mr Porter
Tateossian
What, then, explains the resurgence among those of us without a family crest? “The relative simplicity of a signet ring is what continues to make it a must-have accessory for both men and women,” explains Maxim de Turckheim, former senior buyer of luxury watches and jewellery at Mr Porter and now CEO of Tabayer Jewellery, going on to say that the modern trend is not for classic engraving but more fashion-forward embellishment. “We have definitely seen a move towards designers encrusting them with stones. We have seen some really fun ones from Parisian designer Yvonne Leon, who used a huge seven-carat smoky quartz in a very geometric Art Deco shape.”
And, while the traditional placement on the pinkie finger remains popular, with both Saiger and De Turckheim arguing for pairing simply with a watch and cuff, Williams notes a move towards the OTT. “With the return of the maximalist trend, we have seen men wearing stacks of rings on every finger, and we find a signet ring fits well in this aesthetic, too – they really are a great all-round piece to have in your collection for any occasion.”
Yet to find your perfect piece? Allow us to inspire you with our pick of the best signet rings to buy now.
Tateossian Onyx Signet ring
“We pride ourselves on the innovation, creativity and quality of our designs, so we create collections where any man can find something to represent his personality – from minimalist sterling silver to chunky casings with bright apatite stones,” says Williams of Tateossian’s array of men’s jewellery. When it comes to signet rings, however, it is the former that’s caught our eye in the form of this sterling sliver and onyx design. This is jewellery for men who don’t do jewellery.
Dries Van Noten signet ring
Dries Van Noten is known for bright colours and vibrant prints, but its jewellery collection takes an elegant pared-back approach. Its offering is vast but this sculptural design, featuring a traditional square face and sterling silver construction, is a standout thanks to its eye-catching black gemstone detail.
Emanuele Bicocchi Gold-Plated Malachite Signet Ring
All of Emanuel Biococchi’s pieces exude a sophisticated contemporary charm. This signet ring has been handcrafted in Tuscany from polished gold-plated silver and inlaid with verdant green malachite. A statement piece for uber cool gents.
Miansai Geo ring
How has Miansai brought the signet ring into the 21st century? “By adding gems,” says Saiger. He namechecks the ‘70s-inspired Lennox Jasper ring and enamelled Square Step ring as his favourites but, for us, it’s the chic simplicity of the Geo ring that wins out. Featuring a low-profile rectangular silhouette and a single diamond, it still leaves room for personalisation. The perfect compromise.
Pyrrha Struggle and Emerge signet ring
No family crest? No problem. Named after a figure from Greek mythology, and with collections inspired by Victorian wax seals, Pyrrha’s talismanic jewellery is imbued with more than enough symbology and meaning. Take, for example, this silver signet ring. Featuring a wolf atop a mountaina and the phrase ‘Luctor et Emergo’, which means ‘I struggle and emerge’, set on a plate of black ceramic, it boasts a vintage feel you could easily pass off as a generational hand-me-down.
Bleue Burnham Cottage Rose signet ring
Modern men know bling isn’t best left for women anymore, and one such cosmopolitan gent is Bleue Burnham: the British jeweller whose eponymous brand offers a brilliant line of artfully embellished signet rings. Formerly head of sustainability at Oliver Spencer, all Burnham’s pieces are crafted with eco and ethical consciousness in mind, hence the lab-grown, multi-coloured sapphires on this textured signet ring.
Maple Floral signet ring
If you’re a fan of the finer things in life, Maple’s Floral design is bound to speak to you. This green enamel-filled ring features a distinct Art Deco floral pattern crafted in 14k gold plated silver – the perfect addition to your everyday wardrobe.
J Dauphin Memento Mori signet ring
If you’re looking for a modern ring that isn’t completely devoid of history, turn to Los Angeles-based brand J Dauphin. Inspired by Memento Mori, the medieval religious practice which translates as ‘remember that you have to die’ and encouraged followers to reject the vanity of earthly life and focus on preparing their souls for heaven, there is, admittedly, some irony in deploying bronze and silver to create a signet ring to embody it. Still, when the results look like this, we’re sure the Big Man upstairs will understand.
Seb Brown Smiley ring
Handmade in Australia, Seb Brown is known for putting his home country’s laidback, irreverent spin on classic designs. A case in point: this unisex Smiley ring, featuring a childlike face etched into 9k yellow gold. So much more fun than an ancient family emblem, don’t you think?
Read more: The best bracelets for men
