high jewellery 2024
Image: De Beers

The most stunning high jewellery collections of 2024

25 Jun 2024 | |By Zoe Gunn

Diamonds don’t come much more decadent than this

If you’re even remotely plugged into the world of fashion you’ll know that Haute Couture Week, with all its jaw-dropping gowns and exquisite craftsmanship, returned to Paris this week — bringing with it, as is tradition, the latest high jewellery collections.

Distinct from their fine jewellery counterparts by way of elevated skill, design innovation, quality of stones and, inevitably, price tag, this is jewellery in its most esteemed and rarified form. Just like a couture gown, these are pieces most of us can only dream of adding to our jewellery boxes — but that doesn’t mean window shopping isn’t still fun. From fantastical designs from big-name houses to independent jewellers displaying their wares right here in the capital, read on for the most dazzling high jewellery collections of 2024.

De Beers Forces of Nature

As is often the case with high jewellery collections, De Beers has unveiled its new range — Forces of Nature — in two chapters across the year. Chapter One was unveiled in January 2024 and the more substantial Chapter Two following in June. The latter, a 58-piece strong collection of one-of-a-kind jewels, was presented in eight sets inspired by the native fauna of South Africa – a country close to the heart of the De Beers brand.

Building on the pieces of Chapter One, which comprised of eight exceptional solitaire diamond rings, each of which can be transformed via the addition of a crown or jacket, De Beers has packed some serious jewellery-making expertise into this concise collection. In the Protection set, a lion finds form in a 5.09 carat brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by a mane of beaded gold and is joined by a statement choker designed to recreate a lion’s mane in gold beads. Representing Spirituality, a giant kudu is created via a stack of cushion-cut diamonds and pavé-set antlers and finds its horns recreated in a white gold and diamond necklace and matching ear cuffs.

Elsewhere, an elephant’s trunk clutching a Fancy Pink oval diamond comes twirling from beneath a stunning 3.2 carat heart-shaped diamond symbolising Tenderness. The set is now complete with a matching diamond cuff and asymmetric cocktail ring featuring a central heart-shaped pink diamond.

“The eight featured animals are an ode to the natural intoxicating beauty of the African continent, whose earth yields jaw-dropping natural treasures,” said De Beers CEO Céline Assimon. “When designing the rings, we had no constraints: we were guided by the individual character of eight extraordinary diamonds. Their incomparable beauty challenged us to create strikingly modern, abstract interpretations of the majestic creatures that roam the environment.”

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Pomellato The Dualism of Milan

Paying homage to its hometown, Pomellato’s colourful 2024 high jewellery collection draws on the dual nature of Milan. A rare high jewellery outing for the brand, only its fifth high jewellery collection since its founding in 1967, the 51-piece line is divided into two parts: Monochromatic Treasures and Colour Prism.

The former takes its cues from Milan’s quieter, more understated side, toning down the house’s signature coloured stones for simplicity and elegance rendered in white diamonds, Tahitian pearls, moonstone and grey sapphires. The latter, meanwhile, turns up the vibrance with bold cocktail rings, candy-coloured diamond pavé and gobstopper-sized cabochons in a rainbow of hues.

“First and foremost, I wanted to convey the spirit of the city, a mix of rationalist architecture, skyscrapers with their sinuous lines, the night-time atmosphere of the shopping arcades,” said Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato. “Then I wanted to illustrate this ability that Milan has always had to focus on colour in every creation, such as the work of Gio Ponti or the Memphis Group.”

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Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste

The first of three phases to be revealed throughout 2024, Tiffany's latest Blue Book high jewellery collection, Tiffany Céleste, reinterprets Jean Schlumberger's cosmos-inspired designs created for the house throughout the 1960s and '70s. Now seen through the lens of current chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, the first phase features six chapters: Wings, Arrows, Constellation, Iconic Star, Ray of Light and Apollo.

The collection features both literal and abstract depictions of the stars, sun, moon, and far off galaxies, as well as taking direct design cues from famed Schlumberger designs, such as the Tiffany Trophée de Vaillance brooch. White diamond and mother-of-pearl stars add a spiky edge to statement rings and earrings, diamond wings unfurl across a showstopping necklace, and red spinels take on the task of captuirng the elusive hue of a sunbeam.

"For Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste, the stars provided a new lens to rediscover the extent of Jean Schlumberger’s fantasy world,” said Verdeille. “The new collection traverses all that adorns the skies, as well as that which exists far beyond them.”

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Chaumet En Scène

Celebrating the magnetic pull of the world as seen on stage, the latest high jewellery collection from Chaumet presents pieces exuding the drama and beauty of music, dance and magic. Presented in June 2024 as a collection in three parts, the first - Music - centres around three astonishing parures alternately putting diamonds, emeralds and sapphires centre stage. Offered as sets with coordinating necklaces, rings and earrings featuring bold, graphic lines, these are classical masterpieces made material.

The movement and freedom of Dance, manwhile, sees the tango embodied in a dizzying diamond spiral necklace from which is suspended a 46 carat indicolite, while a five-piece ballet-inspired parure evokes the twirl and grace of dancers in fluid rows of diamonds and independently-moving petals set with Ceylon sapphires. Finally, the energy of swing finds form in lively, contemporary designs combining custom-cut onyx bands, white diamonds and vibrant violet sapphires.

Innovative settings and unexpected stone combinations recreate the surprise and delight of Magic. Diamonds and pearls ranging from creamy white to deep grey are pressed into the service of a trompe l'oeil-effect necklace while an optical illusion is achieved across designs in which ribbons of diamonds appear to float independently of one another.

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The second untitled high jewellery collection of 2024 from Graff (see below for more on the first), the British jewellery house offered up 25 new pieces inspired by the modernist architecture of Paris. As ever, the focus here is squarely on incomaprable stones. Take, for example, a mesmerising 6.02 carat kite-cut emerald set within a row of baguette-cut emeralds to create the illusion that the two stones are melting into one another.

Elsewhere, a Fancy Yellow and white diamond suite features an astonishing total of 52.25 carats of diamonds yet still appearing to remain light and wearable, while a pair of drop earrings frame four crystal-clear oval-cut diamonds with layers of diamond bands and are discreetly edged with emeralds which only become visible as the wearer moves.

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David Morris Mystic Cove

A high jewellery collection hailing from our own fair city, London-based jeweller David Morris looked to the captivating world of life beneath the waves for its latest showstoppers. Inspired by all manner of aquatic flora and fauna, from the saturated hues of tropical coral, to the ripple of a manta ray's wings, and the promise of adventure and discovery that lies beyond the sea, the compact collection is a showcase of some of the world's finest coloured stones.

Traditional oceanic hues find favour in the dazzling Aquissima necklace, featuring a 15.22ct flawless white diamond alongside a 9.58ct turquoise paraiba, and the Oceanica ring, in which the icy hue of a pear-cut paraiba is offset by a zig zag of purple sapphires. The Passiflora necklace, meanwhile, reworks the vibrant shades of the passion flower in a graduated array of sapphires and rubies arranged in a fishbone-structure supporting Colombian emeralds.

Pink diamonds more your thing? You'll find plenty to love in a quintet of designs combining delicate rose-coloured stones with white diamonds, rubies and pink gold. But if it's the simplicity of a white diamond that gets your heart racing, the lace-like design of the Sunrise Mist earrings is an undisputed winner.

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Piaget Essence of Extraleganza

Marking the 150th anniversary of Swiss watch and jewellery maker Piaget, the Essence of Extraleganza collection is every bit as exuberant as its name suggests. Combining the house's masterful skill in both haute horology and exquisite jewellery making, every piece in the 96-strong collection is, in fact, a high jewellery watch, with each taking its inspiration from pieces found in the Piaget archives.

“In 2022, when we began to design the 150 year anniversary collection,” says Stéphanie Sivrière, Piaget jewellery and watch artistic director, “it wasn’t about identically reproducing heritage pieces, but rather taking inspiration from them. Revisiting those values of boldness, originality and elegance that characterise this maison’s soul at the dawn of modernity.”

In practice this translates to three themes - Extraleganza, Piaget Society and When Mastery Ignites Artistry - that embody the Piaget brand. For the first think house icon the Swinging Sautoir reimagined in turquoise, malachite and yellow sapphire and hiding a pendant watch which can be detached and worn on the wrist. Piaget Society, on the other hand, is all about Piaget's bold approach to jewellery as seen in richly coloured cocktail pieces, while When Mastery Ignites Artistry puts the house's craftsmanship under the microscope across pieces that highlight intricate stone setting and masterful cuts.

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Chanel Sport

The quintessential French house has come over all American with a new high jewellery collection inspired by all things pitch, track, field and court. As with most things Chanel, the line takes its cues from the eponymous designer herself, who set up a 'Sport' workshop within her Haute Couture house in 1921 - marking a revolution in practical womenswear.

And while the pieces themselves undoubtedly take their aesthetic codes from the world of sport, with their team emblems, patriotic colour combinations and stars, stripes and numbers insignia, the inspiration runs far deeper than that. In creating the collection, director of the Chanel Jewellery Creation Studio, Patrice Leguéreau, re-examined the entire design process, creating functional pieces that more closely align with the anatomical reality of the human body and featuring quick-release clasps, diamond-encrusted 'sport cords' and supple weaves of precious stones.

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Dior Délicat

Few are the brands that possess the talent and expertise to create both couture fashion and couture jewellery — but Dior is one of them. This season, the brand pays homage to its illustrious catwalk history with Dior Délicat: a new high jewellery collection designed to hug the curves of the body like a bespoke gown.

Bringing together motifs previously seen in the house’s Galons Dior and Dearest Dior high jewellery lines, coloured stones play an integral role here. White diamonds, as elegant and light as lace, provide a backdrop against which vivid rubies, emeralds, sapphires, rubellites and tanzanites shine. With 79 pieces to choose from, those with pockets deep enough to treat themselves may well find it difficult to narrow it down to just one.

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Unusually, British brand Graff hasn’t given its latest high jewellery collection a name. All the better to let the pieces do the talking, we suppose. And what pieces they are. Highlighting Graff’s mastery in sourcing, cutting and setting truly exceptional gemstones, every stone within the new high jewellery collection was hand-selected by a member of the Graff family and underwent a rigorous process to ensure absolute perfection.

The designs, naturally, take their cues from these natural marvels. “Each creation is bold and contemporary, featuring graphic lines while retaining a design sensibility synonymous with Graff,” explains design director Anne-Eve Geffroy. “When I was first presented with this collection of gems, it took my breath away. I knew immediately that we needed to experiment, to push the boundaries of our design language while remaining true to our stone-led design philosophy.”

The result is a bold collection that blends graphic lines with fluidity and movement. Think a necklace and earring suite which sees knotted ribbons of white diamond accented by Fancy Intense Yellow pear-shaped diamonds or the fanning feathers of a bird picked out in round-cut white diamonds. The star of the show? A truly colossal 118.17 carat cushion-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire set on a bangle featuring another 39.7 carats of round and baguette white diamonds. Trust us, you’ve never seen anything quite like it.

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Fernando Jorge

While the majority of the new collections are displayed in the boutiques of the Place Vendôme – the historic home of high jewellery – for Spring 2024, Brazilian jeweller Fernando Jorge has chosen our fair capital as the place to showcase his latest line – and you’re invited. On display to the public from 22 January to 2 February 2024 at Sotheby’s New Bond Street, Jorge’s unique pieces are more daring than what we’ve come to expect from many high jewellery collections.

Pushing the boundaries of the materials we define as precious, alongside the usual diamonds, gold and coloured stones are Brazilian river pebbles, marble and fossilised amber. The overall effect is softer and more organic than classic cut-stone designs, lending each piece a show-stopping quality guaranteed to have onlookers asking ‘from where did you get that?’

Visit fernandojorge.co.uk

Un Air de Chaumet

Following on from 2023’s Le Jardin de Chaumet, the Parisian jewellery house continues its exploration of the natural world by turning its attention to the skies — and, specifically, the birds that populate them — with Un Air de Chaumet. Eschewing the gobstopper stones seen elsewhere, Chaumet looked to its archives, where pieces in the form of peacock feathers, hummingbirds and kingfishers, some created by Joseph Chaumet himself, provided endless inspiration.

Among the highlights are a series of transformable hair ornaments and tiaras, each of which can also be worn as a brooch. Rendered in white diamonds and white and yellow gold, on one a flight of swallows flutters in a graceful ballet, while on another a spray of majestic feathers demands to be admired. Also present on statement ear cuffs, the plumes of a bird of paradise unfurl flamboyantly and feathers ruffle as flapping wings swoop elegantly through the breeze. Pure poetry.

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Boucheron Histoire de Style: The Power of Couture

For the fourth instalment of the house’s Histoire de Style collection, Claire Choisne, creative director of Boucheron, has looked to ceremonial dress to inspire the house’s new 24-piece high jewellery collection. Taking inspiration from the medals, embroideries and buttons traditionally found on military garb, these are translated into rock crystal and diamond to create a series of statement designs that playfully toy with the disparity between feminine and masculine traditions of ornamentation.

“I decided to deconstruct the symbols of power to reappropriate them,” explains Choisne. “This collection is designed like a precious kit that may be worn in a multitude of ways, choosing among various elements to create an individual style.” Among the standout pieces is Médailles: a choker-style necklace formed of 15 white gold, rock crystal and diamond medals and pendants representing 2,230 hours of labour. Elsewhere, Aiguillette sees a braid of white gold strung between two diamond brooches and Noeud reworks grosgrain ribbons in incredibly lifelike frosted rock crystal. The most unusual of the set, however, is undoubtedly a pair of epaulettes inspired by the 1902 diadem created for Mary de Teck, Princess of Wales. Ingeniously crafted to be worn on the shoulders or as bracelets, this is the truest expression of the magic of high jewellery.

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