Issue 30

Things aren’t looking promising, at the time of going to print. Simpson’s Tavern, London’s oldest chophouse, has been serving sincere plates of steaks and stews to the great and the good since 1757. During that time, the restaurant has weathered fires and floods, World Wars and terrorist attacks, plagues and pandemics. It’s been brought to its knees by some greedy landlords in Bermuda.

Simpson’s is about as egalitarian and unpretentious as it gets. Dickens is said to have dreamt up Ebenezer Scrooge while looking through its frosted windows. Apparently he ate there himself. There’s a 200-year-old tradition where they ask if you’d like a sausage with your main course, irrespective of what main you’ve ordered. There’s a stewed cheese-eating challenge. The most expensive dish costs £15.85. Last Christmas, I met a waitress who’d worked there for 30 years. Today, I read in the paper that she’s been made redundant.

Despite a crowdfunding appeal, a number of broadsheet op-eds, and the admirable efforts of Giles Coren, doors remain chained up, food left to rot in the fridge. In a last-ditch attempt to save it from permanent closure, Simpson’s is bidding to become a protected community heritage site. But even that might not do the trick. At a time of year that’s meant to bring peace and goodwill, let’s hope Simpson’s landlords have a change of heart. It would be a miserable thing indeed if such a treasured institution was lost to a squabble over something as dreary as rent arrears (Simpson’s is being hounded for money owed from the time it was forced to close during the pandemic. It can pay, the restaurant says, just not all in one go).

A not-too-dissimilar story is rumbling on over in Ottawa. If you’ve ever been to the Canadian capital, you’ll know that the city’s Château Laurier is akin, in cultural status, to our St. Paul’s Cathedral. And still, an investment company is allowed to purchase the landmark hotel and submit plans to obscure its beloved neo-gothic turrets and towers behind a bland, blocky extension. They want to create more rooms (the hotel already has more than 450). Staggeringly, and to the white-hot anger of locals, the plans have been giving the green light. Learn more on page 26.

Something more uplifting. Have you seen Season Two of Industry? Good isn’t it? And how about that Venetia Berens – star of the show, right? She’s played by a lady called Indy Lewis. You may not have heard that name before, but you will from now on. Trust us (p.40).

What else? Lashana Lynch. BAFTA’s 2022 Rising Star. Pffft, a bit late to that party, BAFTA. Lynch had already gone stratospheric and is still on the ascent (p.36). Plus, electric Bentleys (p.22), pit-stop safaris (p.30), naughty books (p.54), proper English shoes (p.82), lost Japanese whisky (p.68), and where to ski, stay and play in the Alps this winter (p.90).

I really do hope to see you in Simpson’s soon, for a side of sausages and a bowl of stewed cheese. Until then, enjoy the issue and spread the word.

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