
The essential guide to salicylic acid
Say goodbye to blackheads and blemishes with 2024's most Googled skincare ingredient
Salicylic acid has a long-established reputation as a powerhouse skincare ingredient among dermatologist circles, particularly for treating blemish prone skin and improving skin texture. Yet, despite its scientifically-backed results, until recently only those with skincare savvy seemed to know about it. Well, the cat is officially out of the bag. In 2024, it was the most Googled skincare term in the world, clutching the top spot with an average of 60,500 searches each month. So, what exactly is salicylic acid, and who needs it? We ask the experts.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that helps promote the skin’s natural exfoliation process. Derived from the bark of certain plants – such as white willow and wintergreen leaf – it works by helping remove dead cells from the top layer of the skin, promoting renewal, unclogging the pores, reducing blackheads and improving overall complexion.
Consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips says: “Blackheads are the earliest sign of acne. They occur when pores get clogged with sebum (oil) which subsequently reacts with oxygen in the air (oxidation) leading to the characteristic black appearance. Salicylic acid is a great ingredient for treating blackheads because it breaks down the materials that clog pores. It is most beneficial for those with oily, acne-prone, or combination skin, though it can be used cautiously by individuals with normal skin to improve skin texture.”

How do you use salicylic acid?
A cleanser is one of the easiest ways to incorporate it into your routine, helping remove excess sebum, daily dirt, oil, and makeup that clogs pores and causes blackheads. Dr Hiba Injibar, dermatologist and founder of Harley Street’s Dermasurge Clinic, says: “Start with a low concentration (0.5-2 per cent) and begin with one-three times per week and increase as your skin tolerates it. Use it after cleansing and before moisturising and, if it’s a leave-on product, allow it to absorb fully before applying additional products. Salicylic acid can make the skin more photosensitive, so always follow with sunscreen during the day.”
Can it be used on the face and body too?
Injibar says: “Yes, absolutely. Salicylic acid is beneficial for the face as well as areas of the body prone to clogged pores, oiliness, or rough texture, [and can be used to treat] body acne, keratosis pilaris to smooth rough, bumpy skin, and rough heels or elbows.” When used on the body, opt for body washes, scrubs, or lotions formulated with salicylic acid.
Is there anyone that shouldn't use salicylic acid? Is it pregnancy-safe?
Sindhu Siddiqi, founder of the No Filter Clinic in Kensington, says, “I wouldn't recommend it to those with sensitive or overly dry skin, as it can cause irritation or excessive dryness. During pregnancy, I would recommend avoiding concentrations over 2 per cent. If unsure, always seek the advice of a medical professional.”
Can you use salicylic acid alongside retinol?
Salicylic acid and retinol both promote cell turnover and address acne, texture, and signs of ageing, but using them together can over-exfoliate the skin, leading to redness, dryness, flaking, or irritation. Siddiqi says, “Salicylic acid works as a BHA to exfoliate and clear pores, while retinol stimulates collagen production and skin renewal. If you combine them, you run the risk of disrupting the skin barrier. To avoid irritation, I would recommend alternating their use, for example, salicylic acid in the morning and retinol at night, or on different days, and it's crucial to follow up with a gentle moisturiser and sunscreen to protect the skin throughout the day.”
What is the recommended concentration of salicylic acid in skincare products?
Lower concentrations of 0.5 per cent to 1 per cent are ideal for gentle daily exfoliation or for those with sensitive skin. While higher concentrations, from 2 per cent, are commonly used for targeted acne treatments, blackheads, and oily skin concerns. “For professional or prescription use, higher concentrations are available (around 20-30 per cent) but are typically reserved for chemical peels and must be administered by a medical professional,” explains Siddiqi.
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