Glycolic acid: The complete skincare guide
What is the trending ingredient, and how does it benefit your skin? Here’s everything you need to know about the exfoliating, brightening and age-defying miracle worker
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Chances are you’ve heard of retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. But what about glycolic acid? While not exactly new on the skincare scene, this powerful multi-tasking active, which works to refine and brighten skin, reduce pigmentation and help with acne, is certainly having a moment. From toners and cleansers to masks and moisturisers, you’ll spot it in products for both the face and body from a plethora of skincare brands. So, what’s all the fuss about?
You’ve come to the right place. We’ve tapped the expertise of Laura-Sophie Lenz, in-house skincare expert at Avant Skincare, to bring you a complete guide to glycolic acid, along with the best glycolic acid products to add to your skincare regime now.
What is glycolic acid, and how does it work?
“Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid – often labelled ‘AHA’ in skincare products. It’s colourless and odourless, and its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin deeply for effective exfoliation. It breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing brighter, smoother skin underneath. It also helps the skin’s evenness by shedding away the dead skin cells, and works to fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and any discolouration on the skin’s surface,” explains Lenz.
Simply put, glycolic acid is a multi-tasking natural acid with multiple benefits that have made it a widely-used favourite for glowing, plump, youthful and silky smooth skin. However, Lenz does note: “It can be irritating, so slow and steady wins the race. It’s best to build up gradually to reap its full effects, as well as using a barrier-supporting serum and moisturiser. Ensuring our natural skin’s barrier stays intact is especially important while using active ingredients, so incorporating glycolic acid into a routine packed with skin-loving ingredients is paramount.”
The benefits of glycolic acid
While the primary purpose of glycolic acid is to act as an exfoliant (encouraging natural cell turnover), it has a host of other benefits for your skin. As Lenz explains: “Not only does it help even out the texture, but it also clears clogging debris from your pores. It really helps achieve that smooth and even skin tone, without the harsh abrasiveness that physical exfoliants can sometimes have.”
Glycolic acid also has anti-ageing properties and increases the skin’s elasticity. Lenz adds: “By promoting collagen production and increasing the firmness of the skin, glycolic acid can reduce the appearance of fine lines.” The result? Fewer wrinkles and a smoother complexion that is more radiant, firm and youthful.
As well as hydrating properties that deeply nourish, plump, and reduce dryness, glycolic acid can also help reduce acne and unwanted blemishes. “By shedding dead skin cells, glycolic acid can unclog pores and reduce breakouts – becoming a great addition to an acne-fighting skincare routine,” says Lenz. By replenishing cells and smoothing out the skin’s surface, it also helps reduce acne or blemish scarring.
The dos and don’ts of glycolic acid
As we’ve seen, there are many benefits of glycolic acid, which make it a no-brainer to add to skincare routines. However, Lenz does recommend some caution. “It can be irritating when used too frequently, so at first, use sparingly and as little as once a week, alongside nourishing, skin-loving ingredients as part of your usual regime.”
Secondly, Lenz points out, “because glycolic acid deeply penetrates the skin and sheds dead skin cells, it’s important to replenish the skin with a deeply hydrating moisturiser – something with shea butter or hyaluronic acid – to ensure the skin barrier is taken care of.”
One more very important piece of advice: you must wear SPF suncream when using products containing glycolic acid, as it makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays. “It’s crucial to use SPF in all weathers, every single day, but SPF is especially important when using glycolic acid, as it can make the skin even more susceptible to sun damage. Using a broad spectrum SPF 30+ or 50+ is a fantastic way to ensure your skin is being protected while using glycolic acid,” explains Lenz.
The best glycolic acid products
When looking for skincare products containing glycolic acid, there are a whole host of options available. An important thing to note is potency; as it’s a powerful ingredient, you should look for products that typically contain between five and 30 per cent concentrations of glycolic acid, increasing the concentration as your skin becomes accustomed to the active.
We’ve handpicked some of our favourite glycolic acid products to make part of your daily skin routine for bright and refreshed skin in no time. You’re welcome.
Read more: The complete guide to retinol
