Azelaic acid: Everything you need to know about this hero skincare ingredient
Clear, soothe, smooth and brighten skin in one go
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We’ve all been there. Pimple patches, Sudocream, and cancelling plans because of an unforeseen breakout. Our skin can be unpredictable, and with everything from fluctuating hormones and the environment, to diet and lifestyle having an impact, that’s no surprise.
But there can be a simple fix. Step in azelaic acid: a science-backed and dermatologist-loved multitasking active, this potent, powerhouse skincare ingredient has been delivering real results for decades. Thanks to social media, the secret is out and azelaic acid is enjoying a new wave of popularity in mainstream skincare products, becoming one of the most talked about actives right now.
Used to treat breakouts, prevent future ones, refresh your skin and regain your confidence, this gentle but hardworking ingredient is responsive to most skin types, and helps to improve skin clarity, calmness and tone when used consistently. For acne‑prone, redness‑prone, or post‑spot marked skin, it is one of the most reliable and evidence‑backed ingredients available.
So what exactly makes it so effective? We’ve got the lowdown on how azelaic works, its benefits and our favourite products, with expert insight from Mark Poole, founder of skincare brand Bare Addiction. Whether you’re dealing with stubborn spots, suffer from rosacea or are keen to refine your skin texture, here’s everything you need to know about azelaic acid.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is naturally produced by malassezia furfur (also known as pityrosporum ovale), a yeast found on healthy skin. It is also found in grains such as wheat, rye and barley. “In skincare, it is produced synthetically (using these natural substances in labs), which allows for greater stability, purity, and effectiveness while being chemically identical to the natural form,” explains Poole.
What does azelaic acid do for the skin?
Azelaic acid works in several complementary ways, which is what makes it such a standout skincare ingredient. “It helps reduce acne‑causing bacteria, calms inflammation, supports normal skin cell turnover inside the pores to reduce congestion, and gently regulates excess pigment production. This combination allows it to address breakouts, redness, and post‑acne marks, without compromising the skin barrier,” says Poole.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Most people can tolerate azelaic acid, making it a great option for even the most sensitive skin. Its main benefits included the following:
- Reducing breakouts by targeting and killing bacteria that can cause spots and acne
- Exfoliating and unclogging pores
- Soothing inflammation and reducing redness
- Brightening and smoothing skin tone
- Reducing hyperpigmentation and preventing dark patches
- Supporting healthy cell turnover
“Unlike harsher acne treatments, azelaic acid does not aggressively strip the skin or trigger rebound oil production. This makes it particularly appropriate for sensitive, reactive, or younger skin types, including tweens and teens who are experiencing hormonal changes. Its anti‑inflammatory properties also make it useful for redness‑prone and rosacea‑leaning skin,” explains Poole.
Can I use azelaic acid for pigmentation?
Poole also recommends using azelaic acid to treat post‑inflammatory hyperpigmentation left behind after acne. “Rather than bleaching the skin, it gently slows excess melanin production, allowing dark marks and redness to fade more evenly over time. This makes it suitable for a wide range of skin tones.”
Azelaic acid regulations in the UK
“In the UK, azelaic acid up to 10 per cent is classed as cosmetic and available over the counter,” explains Poole. Suitable for daily use, these skincare products are great to add to everyday routines to help keep breakouts under control while calming the skin.
“Higher strengths, typically 15-20 per cent, are regulated as prescription‑only medicines and are used under GP or dermatologist supervision for conditions such as rosacea, persistent acne, or melasma.” These are classed as medical treatments, and results can take a little longer to see (up to 12 weeks).
The best azelaic acid skincare products
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Combining azelaic acid with salicylic acid and plant extracts, this serum will gently exfoliate skin, minimise pigmentation and redness, redefine texture and leave you glowing.
Bare Addiction Rapid Action spot cream
Great for teens with tricky skin, this three-pack bundle will be the miracle-working saviour they’re searching for to treat, soothe, brighten skin, and boost confidence.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron redness soothing serum
Hydration in a bottle, this lightweight serum contains azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to instantly boost your skin’s complexion and minimise signs of redness, balance out excess oils and leave skin bright, fresh and refined.
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Science-backed skincare, packed with antioxidants and redefining azelaic acid, this gel-cream targets dull, blemish-prone skin and firms, soothes and brightens its appearance for lasting results.
Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced clarifying serum
A multifunctional formula supercharged with azelaic acid and kojic acid, this clarifying serum will actively clear, detoxify and purify skin, banishing breakouts and redness and leaving skin beautifully radiant.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel Moisturiser
La Roche-Posay’s lightweight moisturiser is formulated from a powerful trio of azelaic, salicylic and hyaluronic acids. Gently exfoliating, hydrating and reducing signs of redness and ageing, skin will be left clear, refreshed and bright.
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