When I land at Selinda Airstrip – the main gateway to the Selinda Game Reserve in northern Botswana, which spans approximately 130,000 hectares between the Okavango Delta and the Linyanti/Kwando wetlands – all I have on my mind is big cats. It’s our third stop on an epic week-long trip that started in Zimbabwe, took in the Okavango Delta, and will conclude in Selinda. I’ve already seen a small herd of elephants bathe in the shallow waters of Victoria Falls; a journey of giraffes tower among baobabs; a troop of buffalo migrate across the delta’s waters; a dazzle of zebras zip through the bush; and more crocodiles and hippos staring directly at me with their beady eyes than I cared for. But I haven’t seen so much as a trace of a big cat – and there’s only 48 hours left before I board a flight to London. 

I am a self-professed cat person – and Botswana is among Africa’s premier big cat territories, home to approximately 3,000 lions, 5,000 leopards, and 2,000 cheetahs. In fact, a quarter of the world’s population of cheetahs can be found in the country. Add to this Botswana’s reputation for spacious, less-crowded safaris, and I’m confident I’m in the right place to catch a glimpse of fur and whiskers. But, as anyone who has been on safari will know, spotting sought-after mammals is all about being in the right place at the right time. 

As soon as I meet Ntombe – one of Great Plains’ female safari guides (a real joy since less than 10 per cent of Africa’s guides are women), who takes us on our first game drive through the private reserve from Selinda Airstrip to Zarafa Camp – I realise I have nothing to worry about. A bold and tenacious guide who is a real tour de force in the jeep, she is unfazed by our request to seek out big cats – and delivers in spectacularly speedy fashion. 

Guests of Great Plains are provided with Canon cameras to capture personal memories of their trip

Within five minutes of leaving Zarafa Camp during our evening game drive, we spot a 20-strong pride of lionesses and their cubs. An offshoot of the Selinda lion pride, famous for starring in the National Geographic film Birth of a Pride by Great Plains’ founders Dereck and Beverly Joubert, all my safari expectations were exceeded less than six hours after arriving at Zafara Camp. That, ladies and gents, is how it’s done. 

Of course, I’m not only here to spot big cats. I’m here to be one of the first to check out the camp since it emerged from a top-to-toe renovation, which included the addition of a spa and outdoor gym. Opened in 2008 as one of the original outposts in the Great Plains portfolio – which spans Kenya, Zimbabwe and Botswana – Zarafa was an early pioneer of eco-friendly safari stays, having launched completely off-grid and reliant on solar power. Nearly 20 years later, its environmentally-friendly credentials are still very much intact, but changing guest expectations called for a refresh of its four suites and open-plan, open-air communal spaces. 

The camp itself is a network of sage-scented sand walkways that branch off to four suites, including a standout two-bedroom dhow with its own swimming pool overlooking the wild plains. Crowning wraparound decks on stilts, and featuring incredible outdoor showers and private plunge pools, each suite is a whopping 1,000 square foot canvas tent sprinkled with the Jouberts’ personal touches. 

Enter via grand Lamu doors to discover walls adorned with the founders’ wildlife photography, as well as an array of antique furniture (including reclaimed trunks to house your complimentary supply of gin and whisky), Persian-style rugs, leather sofas and a gorgeous copper claw-foot tub which, at turndown, will be filled with a mountain of bubbles for the most relaxing bath. With both an outdoor shower on the deck, with privacy provided by the verdant bush, and an indoor waterfall shower, the only choice you really have to make is whether you’d like a wildlife view while you’re shampooing. 

That is, perhaps, the most thrilling thing about staying here: wildlife roams just mere metres away. From my king-sized bed, I can watch impala, hippos and even elephants whet their whistles at the Zibadianja Lagoon – a major watering hole in the private reserve. The camp is unfenced to encourage wildlife to walk through. Case in point, the pride of lions we saw on our first evening are lying by the lagoon come morning, having sauntered through Zarafa after dark. A staple and undeniable perk at every Great Plains camp is that each suite features its very own Canon camera with a variety of long lenses, so you can channel your inner David Yarrow (and perfect your snapping skills) without even leaving your deck. 

Zarafa is Botswana’s first Relais & Châteaux property, and therefore takes food extremely seriously. The French-born hotel portfolio names cuisine as one of the five core pillars its members must adhere to, and all hotels with its accreditation have been quite literally tried and tested. Talented head chef Herold has struck the balance between fine dining and local flavours perfectly, and allows his kitchen to be creative while honouring the Relais & Châteaux status. 

Mornings start with indulgent breakfast spreads featuring warm European pastries, homemade granola and platters of fresh fruit before eggs any way you like. Come evening, multi-course Michelin-worthy menus include imaginative plates of cranberry and mimosa candy with lime and coconut sorbet, and pea soup with crispy peas and dehydrated apple. I highly recommend peeking into the wine cellar on the main deck too; firstly because it’s supremely air conditioned, but also because the array of vintages, champagnes and rare bottles would give any London bar a run for its money. 

Dining on the two decks – one complete with a wood-fired oven so the team can whip up stone-baked pizzas – feels surreal enough given the frequency of mammals walking by, but the team’s imaginative ability to elevate meal times even further is second to none. One morning game drive ended with breakfast in the bush, where Herold and his team had constructed their own make-shift kitchen, allowing them to cook to order while we sipped on freshly-squeezed juices and piping-hot coffee. 

Sundowners are hosted on the fringe of the lagoon, with the camp’s jetty transformed into an overwater bar before a fine dining affair is served in the bush. No matter where the team finds themselves in the reserve, and no matter how many miles they are from a fully-functioning kitchen, the cuisine at Zarafa never skimps on quality or presentation – and it’s important to recognise that such a seamless operation is no mean feat. 

The indulgence is a privilege, but it does mean you may want to raise the heart rate a little during your stay. Safaris camps are sedentary by nature – for safety reasons, you’re often not allowed to walk around without an escort, so a morning jog is out of the question – but Zarafa’s new outdoor gym provides the perfect solution. Situated on a small deck under the shade of a baobab tree, it’s complete with state-of-the-art treadmills, rowing machines, weight benches and more. Just don’t be surprised if a herd of elephants wander in front of you as you strive for your next PB. 

On the other end of the luxury wellness spectrum is spas, and Zarafa’s new massage hut is a welcome addition. Locals jokingly call the bumps of a jeep an African massage, but nothing delivers quite like the real thing administered by therapist Julia. This was a much-needed hour-long treat, made even more surreal by the distant grunt of hippos and playful shrill of baboons in the distance. No experience at Zarafa is average.  

While you technically don’t need to leave the camp to enjoy Selinda’s flora and fauna, I highly recommend you do. Days are scheduled around morning (5am starts are made sweeter with your personal coffee order delivered to your door as a wake-up call) and late-afternoon game drives. The location of the camp means sightings of elephants, hippos, zebras, giraffes, a variety of birds and lions are regular (hence Ntombe’s relaxed approach to seeking out big cats) but leopards and cheetahs, by nature, are rarer. 

Guided walking safaris are also available and provide an excellent opportunity to explore the surrounding area on foot, while Zarafa also makes the most of the neighbouring lagoon with its own boat, allowing guests to explore its floating islands and spot animals stopping for a drink. All of which is made even more fun by the Great Plains species checklist, which challenges guests to become part of the 111 Club – tick off 111 mammals, birds and trees to receive a unique gift from the team. Consider your inner child unleashed. 

Zarafa Camp offers a quintessential African safari experience but there are few camps in the world that can rival this level of luxury. Minimal keys result in personalised and intimate guest experiences, while Relais & Châteaux accreditation means meals are not an after-thought. Perhaps what is most enviable, however, is its location overlooking a year-round watering hole, ensuring you can glimpse some of the Big Five without even leaving your chair. I, personally, can’t think of anything better. 

Nightly rates at Zarafa Camp start from $2,460 (£1,804) per night. Journeysmiths (journeysmiths.co.uk) offers trips to Victoria Falls and Botswana, with a six-night stay at Mpala Jena, Sitatunga Private Island and Zarafa from £9,685 per person all-inclusive, including return flights from London with British Airways.

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