When you think of the Algarve, what springs to mind? Is it vast family-friendly resorts fringing the party towns of Albufeira and Vilamoura? Or palatial pads promising a slice of exclusivity in Faro? Perhaps it’s the golfing getaways teeming with boys on tour (the Algarve is, in fairness, home to some of the best tees this side of the Atlantic). At first glance, the Algarve isn’t exactly synonymous with luxury – but what Viceroy at Ombria Algarve promises is a world away from this stereotype. 

The Algarve is divided into the sea, the Serra – a chain of mountains in the west – and the Barrocal: a dry, arid landscape where the number of citrus and olive groves almost surpasses homes and villages. What most people don’t know, however, is that the slice of the Barrocal in the northern Algarve hills is Portugal’s answer to Tuscany: a flora-dense region brimming with fig and carob trees, oak valleys and swathes of green sandwiched between the market town of Loulé and a number of national parks. 

It’s a destination that remains relatively untouched compared to the coast or the hustle and bustle of Faro (a mere 30 minutes away) and you’d be hard-pressed to find another resort in these rolling hills. Saying it was a gamble to build a luxury hotel from scratch here would be an understatement – because, at the end of the day, how many people are really looking to holiday in the Algarve without a sea view? But what Viceroy at Ombria lacks in beach proximity it makes up for in its ability to spotlight a different side to the region. One that’s oozing authenticity, tradition, five-star standards and plenty of opportunity for exploration. 

Standing tall on a 150-hectare estate that was scouted out more than two decades ago but only opened its doors last autumn – before an official ribbon-cutting ceremony this May when the Greg Payne-designed spa, of Estelle Manor and Beaverbrook fame, launched (more on that later) – Viceroy at Ombria was conceptualised from the outset as a traditional Portuguese village. Designed by Lisbon-based architect Promontorio, in collaboration with London’s WATG and Wimberly Interiors, the architecture honours the history and culture of the Algarve. 

White-washed buildings and paved piazzas have been constructed at different heights, shapes and angles to offer varying views at every turn, while quintessential Portuguese features have been peppered throughout: think turquoise Azulejo tiles, terracotta stone, Moorish influences and stucco stonework. You’ll certainly get your steps in around here, with the resort encircled by a main road scattered with complimentary bikes, outdoor art, and water features to evoke that desired village feel.

The entire resort, however, feeds off the praça – a traditional Portuguese plaza centred around three restaurants, one cafe and two bars – the 30-metre, blue-tiled clock tower (which can be seen long before you arrive at the hotel) and a historic castle, which was already in situ when the diggers arrived and has been preserved as the golf clubhouse. For some, Viceroy’s raison d’être is its golf course: a GEO-certified 18-hole course designed by lauded architect Jorge Santana da Silva that is as popular with hotel guests as it is with locals. The castle/clubhouse is home to restaurants Casa and Fora, serving dish-of-the-day specials and craft beers from Portugal, as well as a golf shop and fitness centre. For those looking to tee off, this hotel is a playground of perfectly manicured fairways and putting greens – and, for those who are not, there is plenty more to keep you entertained. 

While away the hours under the Portuguese sun at one of four swimming pools (three heated and one seasonal). I recommend settling into one of the sunbeds fringing the pool bar, Salpico (meaning ‘splash’) for those uninterrupted views of the Algarve hills. Two infinity pools set on different levels appear as if tumbling into each other, while yellow parasols are complemented by tangerine and white-striped towels, and shaded cabanas offer luxe options for all-day lounging. Insider tip: quieter spots can be found at the outdoor pools at the spa and fitness centre. 

Ombria Kitchen

Food is naturally a huge part of the offering here. Serving ice-cold Super Bock, signature cocktails, wood-fired pizzas and hotdogs, Salpico is the casual off-shoot of the larger Ombria Kitchen. One of the two larger on-site restaurants, dine on classic Portuguese fare at sunrise and sunset, with menus ranging from breakfast buffets – featuring local bread, jams, honey and roasted vegetables from the hotel’s garden – and morning favourites, such as pancakes with wild berries, sweet potato waffles with figs, and the popular Farmer’s Toast topped with hummus, wild mushrooms and asparagus. 

Return in the evening to indulge in charcoaled black pork marinated in coriander, lemon, chilli, traditional cod beignets with tomato jam and larger plates of classic chicken piri piri with the usual trimmings – chips and tomato salad – and a stand-out sirloin steak in a white wine sauce with crispy ham and homemade potato crisps. Pair with a seriously generous glass of vinho verde and move to the al fresco sofas to watch dusk descend and the sun fall behind the hills in the distance. 

SolaLua

Those more interested in fine dining fare can get their fill at SolaLua, translated to ‘sun to the moon’. Both the kitchen, helmed by executive chef Pedro Pinto, and the bar, managed by expert mixologist João Felicidade, are a feast for the senses and take their cues from ingredients nurtured by both the sun and the moon. In terms of food, this comes in the form of a delectable tasting menu featuring crab doughnuts with dehydrated yogurt, tartlets topped with bluefin tuna and kumquat, or slow-cooked oxtail with raspberry gel, as well as red prawns in almond foam and smoked octopus with chorizo. Service here, as throughout the hotel, is impeccable, warm and friendly. 

Cocktails also nod to the name. For example, the Sol serve is the bright and effervescent Pearfect Star – vodka, pear, homemade vermouth and samphire – while the Lua tipple comes in the form of the darker, moodier Nice To Meat You with local gin, cured ham (yes, really), campari, orange and olive. Sat on the fence? Pick from 10 other clever iterations incorporating locally-sourced carob, honey, fig and Madeira wine and rum. Felicidade is also on hand to impart his expertise at mixology masterclasses, where you can learn more about how he put the cocktail list together, what local spirits he uses and create your very own concoction. This is an hour seriously well spent. 

One of my other personal foodie favourites was Café Central, which can be found just off the praça. An understated Portuguese bakery, this is the spot for a light bite, whether that’s a wood-fired pizza, pastel de nata or homemade gelato, as well as souvenirs in the form of local produce, ranging from honey sourced by a local beekeeper, Portugal’s famous sardines and ceramics handcrafted by an artist a couple of miles away. 

Food, fairways and flopping on sunbeds not enough to keep you occupied? An array of experiences have been designed to give back to local families and organisations, ranging from hive-to-honey tours, traditional pottery workshops and the wildly popular horseback ride and picnic, designed for up to five participants of all ages and abilities and promising a fresh perspective of Monte da Ribeira. 

New for 2025 is the stand-out spa: a whopping three-floor hub designed with holistic wellness in mind. Having tapped into the aforementioned nous of Greg Payne, this masterclass in state-of-the-art spa design features quite literally anything and everything you can think of: a thermal pool, eight huge treatment rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows gazing out onto the golf greens, beauty outlets including a hairdresser, barber and nail parlour, yoga and Pilates studios (with daily classes complimentary for guests), three showers (bucket, Scottish and sensory, obviously) and a spa cafe serviced by a dietician-curated menu. 

Pre-treatment, guests are encouraged to intuitively select from a trio of blends, each with their own scent and healing properties, for use in the massage oils, body exfoliants, herbal compresses and hydrosols. The treatment menu is further elevated by a selection of experiences developed in partnership with Ignae, a skincare brand from the Azores, and biodynamically-led agrocosmetic company Oway from Bologna. Bog standard, this isn’t. 

So, where to rest your head after a long day of sunbathing and sundowners? The 141 rooms are housed in 24 white-washed towers smattered throughout the village and are divided into 20 categories that tailor to every type of well-heeled traveller, whether you need a large balcony and small pantry, or private pools and jacuzzis. 

Inside my suite, an azure-blue kitchenette provides enough amenities to cook up a storm, best served on a choice of two balconies overlooking the golf course. I loved the Azulejo-tiles in the bedroom, complemented by dark wood beams and furniture, and the adjacent bathroom featuring a huge bathtub and separate waterfall shower fitted with gorgeous Corpus products that will fill your suite with aromas of grapefruit, bergamot and cedarwood. 

Not even a year into opening and I’m sure Viceroy is destined for success. Whether you’re here for the golf, the food or just to experience a different side to the Algarve, you will not be disappointed. This hotel ticks every box – even those you haven’t thought of yet. Given its rural locale, many of the staff here have grown up in these hills and are on hand to not only welcome you with open arms, but ensure this hotel gets put on the map. I, for one, will definitely be back. 

From £450 per night. 

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