When Tivoli Avenida Liberdade opened in 1933 it set the standard for luxury hospitality in Lisbon. A beacon of Modernist architecture – something the city itself is renowned for, partly due to its neutrality during the Second World War and lack of air raids as a result – the hotel has evolved into one of the Portuguese capital’s most iconic addresses, located on one of its most prestigious streets, while also being the birthplace of the international Tivoli brand.

But, first, a little history. In the years following its opening, Tivoli became a place of major confluence for international heads of state and celebrities, welcoming everyone from Fidel Castro to Tony Blair, and Maria Callas to Andrea Bocelli, as well as more modern names including Cristiano Ronaldo and Johnny Depp. It was also during these initial decades that the street it sits on, Avenida Liberdade, transformed from a park into a grand European boulevard, with luxury homes and designer boutiques rubbing shoulders on what is now Lisbon’s answer to the Champs-Élysées. Was Tivoli a product of right place, right time? Perhaps. What it has consistently proven, however, is that it is worthy of its landmark status.

Beatriz Costa Suite

Now a member of Leading Hotels of the World, it’s instantly clear this hotel is a special place. Bellboys and porters are eager to help, while the marble stairway opens up into an Art Deco, light-filled lobby decorated in the turquoise and gold accents that work their way throughout the property. Filled with the tinkle of a piano and the hushed conversation of diners enjoying afternoon tea, you could just as easily be on New York’s Fifth Avenue. But, as all guests come to learn, it’s Tivoli’s European flair – affirmed in the 1950s during a redesign by famed Portuguese architect Pardal Monteiro – that keeps well-heeled travellers coming back.

It is, no doubt, important to Tivoli’s reputation to be an authentic reflection of Portuguese culture – and, accordingly, it has been woven into the fabric of the hotel. The Beatriz Costa Suite, for example, is named after the Portuguese actress and cinema icon who moved into the hotel in the 1960s and stayed for 30 years. Her favoured room is now yours for £1,700 per night. Adorned with Costa’s personal art collection and boasting views across the city towards the Tagus River, few hotels boast an experience so impressive that guests literally never want to leave.

Cervejaria Liberdade

Another thread intrinsic to Lisbon’s DNA is its passion for seafood – and Cervejaria Liberdade embodies that perfectly. The gorgeous ground floor restaurant features local handcrafted ceramic tiles, Vista Alegre tableware, and linens and napkins from heritage brand Lameirinho, and aims to be reminiscent of the cervejarias (similar to a pub) that have cropped up across the city. It was recently renovated with the addition of a striking live aquarium, bringing diners closer to the ingredients, while a new summer terrace sits among the hustle and bustle of Avenida Liberdade.

Book here to dine on a selection of traditional dishes created by chef Miguel Silva with seafood sourced directly from the country’s 800km coastline, including the standout fresh brown crab (best scooped up with mafra bread toasts), the classic brás-style codfish – traditional salted cod with shredded potato and egg – and duck leg confit cooked in rice with Portuguese sausages. This was undeniably one of my best meals in Lisbon.

If Cervejaria Liberdade proves Tivoli can deliver traditional, then its the Seen Sky Bar that proves it can do trendy. The jewel in the hotel’s crown is easily Lisbon’s favourite rooftop bar (look out for the swathes of tourists waiting by the lifts come 6pm) and boasts panoramas of São Jorge Castle, the Tagus River and Serra da Arrábida. The vibe shift from the old-world feel downstairs to cosmopolitan cool on the top floor is noticeable, but it’s also refreshing to know Tivoli isn’t stuck in its ways and, as a result, the grandest hotel in the city has become home to one of its most sought-after restaurants.

Cuisine here is Mediterranean-Japanese fusion, offering sharing plates of octopus carpaccio, beef gyoza, truffled lobster salad and sliced wagyu served in a chimichurri sauce. Like all good rooftops, food is complemented by an array of cocktails. Away from the usual suspects, I recommend ordering the Red Lightini – vodka, vanilla, passionfruit and champagne – and Apu Inti, with pisco, grape and cucumber cordial and elderflower. Here East meets West in spectacular style – so be sure to peruse the menu (even if you’re really only here to get in the queue for that Instagram shot).

Of course, part of Tivoli’s appeal is its location. Situated on one of the poshest addresses in the Chiado district, the hotel is mere moments from the city’s famed Tram 28 (another thing you may have to queue for) and the trendy Bairro Alto district. Directly outside the hotel’s doors lies a bustling artisan market, where you can pick up handcrafted clothes, accessories and ceramics, before popping into Isabel Marant and Dior for your French fashion fix.

So, where to rest and relax? Tivoli is home to 264 rooms and suites equipped with all kinds of luxuries: large terraces to while away an afternoon in the sun, a walk-in shower or a huge bathtub to revitalise the body and mind, and separate lounges to kick back and relax in after you’ve clocked up 20,000 steps sightseeing.

Rooms are dressed in the same Art Deco accents found downstairs, and feature a neutral, classy palette of dark wood and pristine white, peppered with black-and-white prints capturing old Lisbon. Bathrooms are decked out in marble, speckled with gold, and are complemented by amenities from Portuguese beauty brand Claus Porto. Every little detail is taken care of, down to a box of handcrafted soaps waiting in the bathroom for you to pick your own scent for the duration of your stay.

Some have compared Tivoli to a resort and, despite its city centre locale, I’m inclined to agree. Tucked away on a tropical terrace adjacent to the hotel you’ll discover an outdoor pool fringed with sunbeds and a bar, serving fresh, light dishes of watermelon, tomato and mozzarella salad, ceviche and Portuguese-style pork sandwiches, alongside margaritas and daiquiris. A true god-send when you’ve spent the morning exploring the city in 35°C heat.

Anantara Spa

Keeping up the East-meets-West theme is the subterranean Anantara Spa, the first and only outpost outside the brand’s own Portuguese hotel. Combining the ancient Thai therapies that Anantara is renowned for with traditional Portuguese rituals, treatments take place across six rooms and utilise Biologique Recherche and Natura Bissé products. Pick from the Beatriz Costa treatment – featuring a foot bath ritual, rice powder body scrub and full body massage with orange blossom oils (the actress’ favourite scent) – and the 90-minute De Stress Vita Essence ritual, including a citrus body scrub and massage to revitalise the senses.

It’s rare to stay in a hotel so steeped in history and not feel like you’re staying in a museum. Tivoli is bustling, full of life and colour and, perhaps most of all, Portuguese hospitality, proving itself to be a proper Grand Dame – just without the stuffiness. To stay here is to appreciate the city’s culture, which permeates through everything from the food to the interiors, but also know that, as a modern traveller, you will be thoroughly catered for. Long may that continue.

From £350 per night.

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