Since its inception in 1916, Schloss Elmau has set out to inspire. Founded by religious philosopher and writer Johannes Müller, the hotel’s early years saw it welcome creatives, artists and thinkers to create a space where like-minded people could converge and converse, while the post-war era cemented its status as a place for world-class musicians, philosophers and politicians to collide. So much so that the hotel has hosted the G7 summit twice in the past two decades. No wonder, then, that Schloss Elmau self-describes as a ‘cultural hideaway’ rather than a hotel. 

Its cultural status is something that current owner, Johannes’ grandson Dietmar Müller-Elmau, set out to preserve when he took the helm in 1997. A decade later, 70 per cent of the historic hotel was destroyed by a fire – by some miracle, the storied concert hall remained untouched (more on that later) – which Müller-Elmau took as an opportunity to overhaul and extend the property, creating the 147-key hotel that stands today. Now spanning the newer Retreat and historic Hideaway, as well as eight restaurants, six pools, two spas and a plethora of cultural and wellness experiences, Müller-Elmau tells me his approach to being a hotelier is simple: “I like to be a stranger in my own home.”

Post-renovation, the hotel is as cultured as the people it welcomes. Müller-Elmau took the opportunity to remodel in his stride, adorning the hotel’s logo with an elephant as an ode to his time in India and the mammal’s symbolic nature; elsewhere, you’ll discover Chinese carpet underfoot, African cork on the walls and Japanese designs on the ceiling. This is not a quintessential Bavarian hotel; rather an international one in Bavaria. 

Hideaway

Retreat

Which isn’t to say that Schloss Elmau doesn’t take its storybook setting seriously. Roughly an hour from Munich or 45 minutes from Austria’s Tyrolean mountain enclave of Innsbruck, the hotel is situated at the foot of the Wetterstein mountains at around 1,000 metres above sea level. It is positioned on a 900-acre estate of pine forests, natural streams, and meadows and, as a result, the year-round resort invites winter skiers and mountain climbers, as well as spring hikers and cyclists, to escape to this untouched slice of Germany. 

This spectacular mountain landscape lends itself perfectly to state-of-the-art spas – and Schloss Elmau boasts two. Featured in Conde Nast’s World’s Best Spas last year, and scooping Travel+Leisure’s Best Destination Spa in Europe, one of the hotel’s biggest draws is its interdisciplinary wellness offering, which spans two gyms, a Pilates and Jivamukti yoga studio, a plethora of pools, including a Japanese onsen, a Ferchenbach sauna and Europe’s largest hammam outside of Turkey, which happens to be rendered in 60 million-year-old Jura stone. No biggie. 

Mornings here start with complimentary yoga classes with panoramic views of the mountains, while afternoons may be centred around guided ice bathing in the hotel’s freshwater creek with head of yoga, Johannes Mikenda. While away blissful hours in the saunas or heated outdoor pools – the saltwater pool in the adults-only Badehaus Spa is one of the most popular (just beware of guests going starkers) – or book from a treatment menu that combines East and West traditions, ranging from Thai massages, Chinese medicine consultations and Japanese shiatsu to classic deep tissue massages and Arizona hot stone experiences. The spas and facilities are situated across the neighbouring hotels and accessed via an outdoor walkway, but don’t worry that you’ll be alone in putting on your robe and slippers to drift between them; in fact, there is a constant flurry between the two. 

Wellness here is not only defined by lounging, swimming and treatments. On the other end of the spectrum are culturally enriching activities that also speak to the body and mind, including a range of retreats which draws Germans and international travellers in their masses. Sensorial stimulation can be found at the concert hall: an acoustically-sound space which dates back to the early 20^th century and hosts approximately 300 classical concerts per year. During my stay, Canadian pianist Chilly Gonzales was headlining, joining an elite circle of musical maestros who have played at Schloss Elmau, including American pianist Yuja Wang, German pianist Fabian Müller, and acclaimed jazz artist Gwilym Simcock. 

Concert Hall

Schloss Elmau is also a global hub for movement. Outside New York, London and Berlin, the hotel is one of the few Jivamukti Yoga Centres to offer this specific practice, and its annual yoga summit is one of the most sought-after in the world. Elsewhere, dance retreats continue Schloss Elmau’s century long tradition of dance – founder Johannes Müller was renowned for his ballroom events – and the hotel proves is one of only a few worldwide to host Gaga retreats. Developed by renowned choreographer Ohad Naharin, this expressive, instinctive form of movement is designed to make the joy of dance accessible to everyone and disciples flock from all over the world to go gaga.

If you’d rather immerse yourself in the mountain air instead of getting endorphins pumping in a studio, there’s plenty to explore in this rural locale. Go during the summer to enjoy golf, tennis, horse riding, trampolining and wild swimming in the nearby Lake Ferchensee, while winter sees skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoe adventures at slopes in Seefeld, Garmisch, the Zugspitze Glacier or down from Elmauer Alm. The latter piste is just a stone’s throw from the hotel, and is also home to its only Bavarian restaurant, accessed via a 40-minute hike. Nestled at 1,200 metres above sea level, enjoy generous salads with cheesespaetzle and sweet mustard pretzels, alongside classic fare of goulash, apple strudel and regensburger wurst. Go hungry. 

Elmauer Alm Lodge

Elmauer Alm is undoubtedly Schloss Elmau’s most scenic and most German restaurant – the mountain views are unmatched, and will make you feel like you’re on the set of The Sound of Music – while the remaining seven promise international cuisine. Fine dining fare is catered for at two Michelin-starred Ikigai, which fuses Japanese and French cuisines, while family-friendly settings can be found at Thai-inspired Fidelio and Tutto Mondo, which serves Mediterranean plates such as burrata with basil pesto and winter tomatoes, and Perigord truffle and champagne linguine. Fondue restaurant Kaminstüberl, which marries the Swiss delicacy with German wines served in candle-lit surroundings, proved to be an experience which far exceeded my expectations. Pure indulgence from start to finish.  

So, where to retreat when you’ve sampled the spa, been wined and dined and enriched in culture? Pick from either the old-world Bavarian charm resplendent in the original Hideaway or the modern, balcony-fronted rooms in the Retreat, which let the views do the talking. I opted for the latter, where suites open up onto wooden terraces providing perfect vantage points of the majestic mountains, and living spaces are rendered in rusty orange hues, glossy dark wood and elephant-patterned textiles. If the fresh blasts of mountain air and altitude aren’t enough to induce a dreamy slumber, the huge bathtub, rainfall shower, gigantic German Schramm beds (complete with a pillow menu, of course) definitely will. 

So vast is Schloss Elmau’s offering and capability, that a weekend here is simply not enough to experience everything – unsurprising, then, that this five-star hotel’s biggest customers are returning guests. If the spas and restaurants don’t draw you back, and the seasonal excursions aren’t enough to tempt, one thing that certainly will is the fairytale mountain setting. Promising an unrivalled location enveloped by this lesser-known – and less-trodden – corner of the Alps, I’ll forever yearn to be sitting on Schloss Elmau’s sun-drenched terrace as the snow-capped peaks soar above. This is Bavaria like you’ve never seen it before. 

From €365 per night. 

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