Chances are, even if you’ve never heard of Sardinia, you’ve heard of Costa Smeralda. Or, more likely, you’ve seen paparazzi photos of Beyoncé, Gwyneth Paltrow and Cristiano Ronaldo frolicking on yachts in Porto Cervo, the area’s glitziest locale. Italy’s answer to Antibes, this tiny stretch of coastline is one of the world’s most popular superyacht hubs and, until my most recent trip to the island, the only destination in Sardinia I’d ever visited. A fact that, when told to my host, native Sardinian and Delphina Hotels PR manager, Tamara Amadu, elicited a response much more polite but not miles away from, “Well, you haven’t really been to Sardinia, then.”

She’s not wrong. Developed in the 1960s at the behest of the Aga Khan, Porto Cervo is a wealthy man’s idea of an Italian village idyll, complete with white-washed houses, luxe restaurants and high-end shopping. All of which is miles away from the rich and complex history that has resulted in the traditions and culture of modern Sardinia.

In fact, practically the only thing the two have in common is conquest of sorts. It is, for example, an interesting quirk of Sardinian cuisine that you’ll find barely any seafood in its native dishes. Over the centuries, the islanders got so fed up with their coastal fishing villages being attacked by, variously, the Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Goths, Spanish, and French, that eventually they gave up and headed to safer pastures inland. Accordingly, classic Sardinian dishes include delicacies such as roast suckling pig, sheep’s milk cheese, pane carasau (crisp thin flatbreads) and zuppa gallurese (bread and cheese soup) – not something you’re likely to find out dining in the Porto Cervo outpost of Crazy Pizza.

And, while today’s conquerors may be more likely to arrive on an EasyJet flight than a galleon, or, as I did, via British Airways’ new direct route from London City to Olbia, once on the island, it’s not hard to see why Sardinia became such an attractive target for domination. Yes, there were probably some political and economic factors at play – but there are also the beaches. So crystalline are the waters and powdery the sands, particularly in north-eastern Sardinia around the La Maddalena archipelago, that the area has become known as the ‘Caribbean of Europe’.

It is here that you’ll find Delphina Hotels & Resorts’ clutch of eight hotels and residences. Offering everything from health and wellness-focused stays to luxe self-catering properties, the five-star jewels in the family-run group’s crown are the expansive Valle dell’Erica and romantic Capo d’Orso.

If it’s the aforementioned beaches that have captured your imagination, then allow me to recommend a stay at Valle dell’Erica. While Italian law technically bans the privatisation of any of the nation’s beaches, the resort’s prime location on a stretch of eastern coastline means that, unless you’re pitching up in your own boat, it has the white sand La Licciola beach, as well as a handful of pretty coves, all to itself.

Add to that four swimming pools, an extensive thalasso and spa, kid’s club, gym, padel court and 28 hectares of delicately landscaped parkland to explore, and you might just wonder where exactly the rest of the guests in this 273-key hotel are hiding. It is truly rare, especially in a family-friendly resort such as this, to be able to step onto your balcony to take in the sunrise views across to Corsica with no sights or sounds more interrupting than a passing lizard or squawking seabird to ruin the peace.

This is, of course, by design – and the careful landscaping testament to the success of Delphina’s We Are Green commitment which has seen Valle dell’Erica voted Europe’s Leading Green Resort at the World Travel Awards for six consecutive years. And, while its sustainability credentials are clearly something it takes seriously, they’re also subtle. You’ll find very little in the way of single-use plastics in any Delphina hotel, for example, but it’s only something you ever really notice when you’re handed a carton of water or see that the coffee machine uses compostable pods rather than capsules.

Cala Capra beach

Hotel Capo d’Orso

Equally, when it comes to food, the We Are Green commitment means that ingredients are seasonal, support independent and local growers and, wherever possible, are chosen for their ‘zero-kilometre’ credentials – meaning suppliers are so close to the hotel that transport results in almost no carbon emissions. If you think that means you’ll be stuck eating nothing but grilled fish and tomatoes for a week, think again.

Sardinia is one of the world’s legendary Blue Zones: areas of the globe where residents regularly live to well over 100 thanks to a combination of fresh, local, unprocessed foods, light exercise and a community ethos. It is thought that the diet portion of this recipe is the most important and, at Valle dell’Erica, they’re more than happy to give you a taste of the good life.

Across its seven restaurants you’ll find outlets offering everything from traditional Gallurese cuisine (think hand-rolled pasta and the aforementioned spit-roast suckling pig) at Li Ciusoni, toes-in-the-sand candlelit romance at Li Zini, and classic Italian fine dining at Les Bouches. It surprised me, then, when I discovered one of the hotel’s buffet offerings, Nautilus, is the true show-stopper.

With the majority of Delphina’s guests opting to take advantage of its hotels’ half-board offerings, Nautilus is where you’ll find the majority of Valle dell’Erica’s guests each evening (if, of course, they’re not availing themselves of cocktails and live music in the hotel’s central square). This, however, is not your average all-inclusive buffet. I have, for example, yet to come across a Tui hotel offering piles of fresh oysters, sushi platters, and a lobster tank. Or, for that matter, chef-manned stations spanning hand-cut sashimi, freshly grilled meats, pasta, salad and seafood. Even the bread is treated with enough reverence to be afforded its own dedicated server.

Likewise, over at Capo d’Orso, it’s not unusual to see the hotel’s private harbour filling up with the tenders of at-anchor superyachts come lunchtime. Yes, these boats all have their own private chefs but, when it comes to food, word of mouth is strong and no one wants to be the fool who didn’t make a reservation at Il Paguro – one of only two restaurants in the group’s portfolio open to external guests.

More exclusive still is Île Flottante: a hugely romantic destination offering just a handful of tables on a pontoon over the sparkling waters of the Archipelago di La Maddalena. There are few more magical ways to spend an evening than listening to the waves lap lazily beneath you while watching the lights of the nightly circus that is Phi Beach start up across the bay and thanking your lucky stars that you chose to be here, tucking into tuna carpaccio and grilled monkfish, and not there, downing €15 vodka shots.

And while the pace of life may be intentionally slower at Capo d’Orso, that’s not to say there isn’t plenty to keep active holidaymakers occupied. A 24-hour al fresco gym, yoga pavilion, swimming pontoons, powder-soft beach, and nine-hole pitch and putt golf course promise plenty in the way of day-to-day activities, while the hotel’s fleet of speedboats and sailing yachts run daily excursions into the famously stunning waters of La Maddalena, where swimming, snorkelling, fishing and kayaking await. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins and the wild pigs native to the archipelago's uninhabited islands.

Of course, if slow suits you just fine, then why not book yourself into the hotel’s L’Incantu thalasso and spa? Sandwiched between the beaches of Cala Capra and Cala Selvaggia – and with outdoor treatment rooms to make the most of its waterside views – signature massages use local oils and extracts, including elderal, Sardinian helichrysum, and pompia, to relax and reinvigorate, while high-tech facial treatments come courtesy of Natura Bissé.

Post-treatment, sweat it out in the traditional hammam before availing yourself of the thalassotherapy circuit. An ancient tradition that harnesses seawater, algae, sand and fresh sea air, dip between the three thermal pools, soothe aching muscles beneath the water jets, and soften skin with salt scrubs to naturally detoxify, stimulate circulation and harness deeper, more restful sleep.

If, afterwards, you can only muster the energy to pour yourself a glass of local rosé and admire the sea views from your suite terrace? Well, Sardinians don’t reach 100 without leaving plenty of time for rest…

Rooms at Resort Valle dell’Erica start from €170 per person per night on a half-board basis, visit hotelvalledellerica.com; Rooms at Hotel Capo d’Orso start from €230 per person per night on a half-board basis, visit hotelcapodorso.com. British Airways Holidays offers seven nights at Resort Valle dell’Erica from £1,539pp, including economy return flights from London Heathrow, one checked bag per person and accommodation on a half-board basis, visit britishairways.com.

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