I’m willing to bet anyone familiar with the Maldives will have heard of the Atmosphere Core brand. Having launched eight resorts since its conception in 2012, the Indian Ocean-based hotel group is the largest in the Maldives, spanning the north and south atolls – and just about every other coral islet in between. There are more than 1,200 places to stay in the Maldives but, at the mere mention of Atmosphere, the Maldivian native sat next to me on the plane lets me know I‘m “in good hands”.

Such renown is garnered by unwavering high standards, and it is this that not only keeps well-heeled travellers coming back to Atmosphere Core resorts – an umbrella term that encompasses Oblu, The Ozen Collection and By Atmosphere hotels – but also ensures its continued expansion. Following in the footsteps of sister resort Varu by Atmosphere, which launched in 2019 and is often listed among the top ten resorts in the Maldives, Raaya by Atmosphere opened last summer in the north atoll to replicate the success of Varu and then some, offering bigger and more creative experiences that appeal to energetic families, honeymooners and those looking for an authentic taste of Maldivian island life alike. 

Raaya takes its creative credentials seriously. At the moment you check in via the app (up to 72 hours prior to arrival), you’re introduced to Seb: a fictional shipwrecked adventurer and artist who first discovered the island, and made his mark on this corner of the Maldives by creating the bare bones of a resort before being rescued. While you’re not expected to believe this stranded fellow built all 167 beach villas, 60 water villas, four restaurants, a spa, diving centre, kid’s club, sports zone and artist’s zone (more on that later), Seb’s story is designed to encourage guests to live out their own castaway escape – plus, a little imagination never hurt anyone. 

Editors will tell you never to start a travel feature with the journey – but it’s hard not to when Raaya offers such a warm welcome. After the 45-minute seaplane from Malé, I’m greeted by Boduberu drumming and musicians who whisk us along the wooden jetty to the lobby. Doing away with traditional check-in desks (the app does have its uses), your island host – who’s available throughout your stay at the click of a Whatsapp – awaits with glasses of champagne in hand, before zipping you through the sandy, jungle-fringed trails to your island home. 

Raaya occupies one of the largest islands in the Maldives – spanning 3,550,000 square metres – and puts its size to good use with a plethora of accommodation. Overwater villas promise the romanticism of a castaway hut – but, naturally, have been elevated with modern comforts including a private deck designed for languid relaxation on sun loungers, a suspended hammock, and a private plunge pool. 

Elsewhere, families can book a two-bedroom beach villa, housing interconnected bright and airy suites with cosy furnishings, vibrant tropical accents and plenty of outdoor space, with the option of a large pool and beachfront cabanas. For those all-out experiences, however, there’s only one option: the majestic Raaya Residence, located on a tranquil corner close to the mangrove and accessed via a secret garden path. Boasting two master bedrooms, each with its own private entrance, the residence is centred around an ocean-facing outdoor deck featuring an infinity pool, pantry, bar, spa pavilion, and a stretch of soft sandy beach – just for you and your plus one (or three). I heard through the mangrove that it’s yet to be booked out in its entirety, so secure it now to be the first in. 

I didn’t expect to love my beach villa as much as I did (this being my first time in the Maldives, I was really hoping for the overwater villa experience) but after spending five nights here, I’d wholeheartedly say it’s your best bet. Offering the best of both worlds – a private pool moments from a sandy, white beach with direct access to the crystal-clear waters beyond – it would have been almost impossible not to become enamoured with the indoor-outdoor bathroom with an open roof, daily-replenished mini bar, large living area with extensive wardrobe space (a much-needed necessity), king-sized bed and private terrace fitted with pear-green sunloungers, complimentary snorkelling gear and an outdoor dining area. 

Water villa

Beach villa

Getting around the island is a breeze – which is good considering there is much to do outside of your all-important date with the sun lounger. Pick up one of the bikes scattered along the sandy roads to explore the island, or head to one of seven bus stops to nab a seat in an electric buggy that stops off at all the key hubs, including the Village Square. The island’s epicentre – and your best chance at spotting literally any other guests, given how much private space each is afforded – the square has been designed to replicate a conventional plaza, home to the shop, concierge desk, photography studio and interconnected pathways that link some of the island’s speciality dining destinations, the spa and the artist’s zone. 

Think of yourself as a foodie? The beauty of the Raaya Plan means guests can take advantage of Atmosphere’s premium all-inclusive concept, including its tasting menu, fine dining offering. For every four nights booked, guests are allocated one reservation at each of the three speciality restaurants. First up, there’s the Middle Eastern-inspired Mizāj, which serves fresh shawarmas and mixed grills, and the Pan-Asian Ampers&nd – offering a romantic beachside setting blending Soho House-style interiors and party vibes thanks to a resident DJ – where you can dine on fresh sushi, Maldivian crab kamameshi (rice), and Szechuan-spiced lamb rack with enoki mushrooms. Although I’m a sucker for sushi, my personal favourite was The Village. Serving delectable Italian-European cuisine (rare on this side of the world) in the form of a four-course menu, enjoy gambaretti, lamb ragu pappardelle and black angus fillet with saffron mashed potatoes, all paired with a sommelier-suggested wine picked from the 30-bottle selection. 

Ampers&nd

Raaya’s dining scene doesn’t stop there. Raaya Life – open for breakfast, lunch and dinner – offers an impressive buffet spread of Asian, European, Indian and Maldivian cuisines, as well as live cooking stations and a weekly Maldivian night showcasing local flavours. Pool bar Soaq and sports bar Raaya Hub are also open to guests all day for signature cocktails and small plates, but I’d highly recommend venturing to Seb’s Shack for a sundowner. A rustic beach shack serving cooling iced drinks – think fresh smoothies, cold-pressed juices, and ice-cold beers – don’t miss the premium selection of rum-infused cocktails (the mango mojito is a must) alongside light eats such as chilli lime tuna salads, jerk chicken burgers and the Vietnamese rice paper rolls. Put simply, whether you’re after a midday margarita, a post-beach beer or a light snack in the sun, Raaya has something for every palate with seamless service that puts relaxation at the forefront of the guest experience. 

There are several additional experiences for paying guests – manta ray snorkelling, massages, and jet skiing among them – but, for foodies, immersive private-dining at Seb’s Farm shouldn’t be missed. A vast and impressive homegrown fruit and vegetable plot tended to morning, noon and night by dedicated gardeners, expect a range of produce including Chinese cabbage, bell peppers, Maldivian chilli (try if you’re brave), okra and more. Arrive early to pluck your ingredients from the ground before returning in the evening to dine on a menu making the most of the morning’s bounty. Curated by executive chef Putu Alit Wijana, expect perfectly-formed dishes of beetroot tossed with walnuts and feta, pan-seared Maldivian red snapper with roasted tomatoes and spinach dust, and onu farumas: a native dish of reef fish cooked in bamboo and pak choi. A fine example of well-executed farm-to-fork dining, this is Raaya’s best-kept secret.  

Yoga pavilion

Sports zone

The Maldives has long been plagued by the idea that it offers nothing to do for those who can’t sit still – but you can dispel that notion with one flick through Raaya’s concierge programme. This daily newsletter shared by your island host will likely feature sunrise yoga, natural beauty product making classes, CrossFit sessions at the gym, as well as stand-up paddle boarding and beach volleyball, hosted at one of the largest sports zones in the Maldives, home to padel and tennis courts, and a mini golf course. Plus, the Discovery Den kids' club is open all day, every day, for little ones aged up to 12 to enjoy leaf painting, origami art and ziplines in the outdoor playground – with babysitting available on a chargeable basis too. 

Also included in every guest’s Raaya Plan is a guided reef snorkelling session – where you can dive into the coral reef fringing the island to spot shoals of colourful fish – and a sunset cruise (for that Instagram shot). You’ll also be encouraged to visit the artist’s zone, where Seb’s creative flair comes to life, to create and paint your own dhoni boat which you can set sail later that evening as part of the hotel’s unique Raaya Ritual. 

No five-star resort is complete without a spa, and Atmosphere’s flagship Ele|Na brand has everything you’d need. One treatment per seven-night stay is included in the Raaya Plan, with extra services added for every additional four nights booked. Nestled in a secluded, natural hideaway boasting several individual spa huts, complete with outdoor bathrooms, pick your treatment wisely – and don’t miss the array of signature rituals, such as kaashi naashi therapy: a Maldivian massage using coconut shells to release muscle tension. 

It’s safe to say that Raaya caters to just about any traveller with its array of five-star accommodation, adrenaline-pumping and rejuvenating activities, and global gastronomy, but what makes it stand out from the 1,200 other hotels in the Maldives is the fact it does everything to an exceptionally high standard. Once you’re cocooned in your tropical paradise, it’s hard to think of one, singular element that lets it down. And, really, isn’t that what a holiday in the Maldives is all about?

From £524 per night. 

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