Prana by Atzaró: Discovering Raja Ampat by traditional phinisi
Remote and untouched, there’s really only one way to explore the wonders of Raja Ampat: by boat
Prana by Atzaró is the world’s most luxurious phinisi yacht. Full of charm and splendour, it makes the perfect vessel for an Indonesian adventure – and what a special adventure it is. Sitting off the northwest tip of Bird’s Head Peninsula in New Guinea, the Raja Ampat islands are the most easterly in the Indonesian archipelago. There is no infrastructure here; no hotels, no airports, it’s a place only accessible by boat, and therein lies the secret to its exclusivity and impeccably preserved natural beauty.
Raja Ampat, which translates as ‘The Four Kings’, is made up of four main islands: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool, which in turn are encircled by more then 1,500 tiny islands, cays, and shoals. Which is where Prana by Atzaró comes into majestic action.
At just over 55 metres in length and 11 metres wide, this is the don of phinisi yachts (traditional Indonesian sailboats with two masts). Having first set sail in 2018, it’s the biggest and most luxurious you’ll find in the area and has been lovingly crafted in teak and ironwood using locally honed, time-worn methods. Your big, brash, shiny Monaco superyacht this is not.
Operated by five-star hospitality brand, Atzaró Group, it’s a lavish charter for one of the most remote destinations on the planet. There’s an 18-man crew, which includes a cruise director, dive instructor, several chefs, stewards and beauty therapists, to cater to your every need. Hop aboard this floating five-star hotel and receive unparalleled service with a staff-to-guest ratio of 1:1. The phinisi sleeps up to 18 guests in nine elegant, spacious suites, each offering an en suite complete with rain showers, with two showstopper primary suites sitting at deck level (one with a huge balcony), and the remaining cabins below.
When it comes to design, the theme is understated elegance, with an aesthetic that combines the classic and the contemporary. There are nods to the golden age of glamour, and subtle nautical design elements in smooth solid teak wood, muted palettes, and soft textures. This look and feel continues throughout the four spacious decks, with the main deck offering both indoor and outdoor living spaces and a huge table for al fresco lunches and suppers. Head up to the sundeck to catch some rays on the sumptuous king-size daybeds or go up another level to the top deck for sweeping views of the Halmahera Sea. It’s the ideal spot for both sundowner cocktails and morning yoga and doubles up as an open-air cinema. It’s hard to imagine somewhere more memorable to watch your favourite movie.
In line with the five-star offering, Prana is home to a spa treatment room and a spa menu curated by Anne Semonin just for yacht guests, with two therapists on hand to administer full body massages designed to banish jet lag, as well as reflexology, facials, and beauty treatments. It’s worth noting that a 30-minute massage or beauty treatment per person is included in the rate. Plus, there’s daily personal laundry and turndown service twice a day.
Another huge draw is the dining, from decadent tasting menus to casual bites, chef Teguh and chef assistant Candra whip up delicious spreads for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Making use of locally sourced, seasonal produce, the east-meets-west fusion dishes offer a true taste of Indonesia without alienating picky palates.
Breakfast is served family-style with fresh fruit platters and traditional Asian dishes, such as nasi goreng, lining the table. Guests can also choose from an a la carte menu if eggs Benedict, waffles or avocado on toast are what they desire. Lunch is taken on the shaded deck and, during my stay, featured flavourful soups, fresh salads, grilled fish and meat, and ceviche.
For an incredible dinner experience ask the crew to organise a Prana beach BBQ. The phinisi drops anchor next to a tiny, deserted island and guests are tendered to a white sand beach where the thoughtful crew have set up a beautiful dinner table under the stars, complete with twinkly festoon lighting and a pop-up bar for sundowners to start supper in style. It’s a hugely romantic setting (if you’re planning on popping the questions this would be the time to do it) and, from ribeye steaks and fresh local lobster to salads, menus can be tailored to suit guests’ tastes. One thing’s for sure, you certainly won’t go hungry.
With the boat explored, it’s time to get out and discover the stunning waters and rugged landscape of Raja Ampat. Famous globally for its world-class diving, donning a snorkel or scuba tank is a must for beginners and practiced divers alike. The warm waters here are full of life, with over 600 species of vibrant coral (more than 40 are native to the area) and 1,600 species of fish (35 that are endemic to the region), from yellow snappers to batfish and moray eels. Advise the team of your level of expertise and they will plan a tour stopping at world-renowned dive and snorkel sites, such as Melissa’s Garden and Batu Rufus. For beginners, Mioskon Reef promises good coral coverage, a sandy bottom at 18 metres, and gentle currents, perfect for those trying scuba diving for the first time or snorkellers wanting to explore the colourful waters.
Had your fill of underwater flora and fauna? There are plenty of water sports to be had, such as sea kayaking through the mangroves of Arborek Island or paddleboarding in the calm lagoons of Piaynemo. Adrenaline junkies, meanwhile, should give wakeboarding and water-skiing a go, or for a slower pace, fishing equipment can be supplied along with towable floats.
There’s land exploration too, such as hiking and bird watching (keep an eye out for the crimson bird of paradise). Raja Ampat’s islands are covered in mangrove forests and their complex ecosystems provide the perfect environment for marine life. The team will stop off at the jungle waterways to Kali Biru, and with sea booties firmly on, guests can wade through the shallow part of the river, enter the jungle and within half an hour, be met by a turquoise freshwater river that begs to be swam in. For local culture, visit Sauwandarek, which has a population of only 180, where local villagers produce hats and bags made of sea pandan leaf and carve serving spoons from local wood, and small shark can be spotted in the clear shallows off Sauwandarek jetty.
A trip aboard Prana by Atzaró is a once-in-a-lifetime sailing experience. Magical from start to finish, it’s for those who want to discover untouched paradises in unadulterated luxury. The team, who offer special moment after special moment, not only deliver a hyper-personalised itinerary and service, but they do so with great warmth. This combined with the elegance of the beautifully crafted phinisi, and the romance of exotic exploration — whether on land or at sea — results in an unforgettable trip. Paradise found.
Prana by Atzaró sails Raja Ampat from December to April. Rates start at $18,000 per night in low season and are inclusive of all meals and snacks, soft drinks, local beers and wines, as well as laundry, internet, water sports, diving, and excursions, plus a complimentary 30-minute massage or beauty treatment. Business class flights from Heathrow to Jakarta with Qatar Airways start at £2,762 per person. Visit pranabyatzaro.com; qatarairways.com.