When you’re a mother of three, sharing news at the school gate that you’re escaping to Palazzo Fiuggi for some R&R is met with mixed facial expressions. Self-indulgence is a dirty, dirty word. And while many seem genuinely hyped, if not inspired, there are still a good number of husband clappers (aww, is he babysitting?) and maternal martyrs (I could never…) determined to make me pause. While I wouldn’t trade my munchkins for anything, everyone deserves some time out. Besides, I was intrigued to see how the other half live, and jet off, senza di baggage, to reflect, unwind and focus on myself. No apologies or excuses needed.

With health retreats and wellbeing tourism in general seeing a huge rise in popularity over the past few years, many are turning to these kinds of breaks as a release from hectic schedules, stressful jobs and digital overwhelm. And with the rate of childlessness among UK women increasing sharply (up by almost 50 per cent since the mid-1990s), many high-powered females in their 30s, 40s and 50s are looking to these retreats for a much-deserved break – far from the madding crowds, and even more maddening kids’ clubs.

Winning Conde Nast Traveller’s Readers’ Choice Award, as well as its Best Spa and Wellness gong, in 2023 (not to mention Robb Report’s Best of the Best accolade), I arrived at Palazzo Fiuggi with high expectations. A self-proclaimed home of wellness for mind, body and soul, the property sets out to fuse ancient holistic disciplines with the keystones of traditional Western medicine. Offering scientific therapies to promote a better quality of life, Palazzo Fiuggi offers a range of physical experiences, both active and meditative, and, of course, some cheeky Botox to boot. All in the belly of a former palace.

Just under an hour’s drive from Rome’s Ciampino airport, the hotel is the former holiday residence of the Italian royal family. Located high on a hill above the small town of Fiuggi, the winding path upwards makes for a dramatic arrival. The property itself is breathtakingly beautiful, outside and in. 

Sky-high ceilings complete with dusky-pink and sage-green floral frescoes in the main dining hall are accessorised with multi-storey crystal chandeliers and impeccable ivory cornicing. Contemporary interior design choices in earthy tones and textures shoo away any ‘nonna’s house’ vibes, with smooth lines and fuss-free flourishes creating a seamless balance between old and new. Elsewhere, the state-of-the-art gym is set in the palazzo’s former ballroom, a juxtaposition so jarring that the impact is unforgettable. Personal training sessions (or ‘daily movement experiences’, as they’re called here) will never feel the same at David Lloyd. 

I am here to try out the recently-launched Hiking for Longevity programme (others are available for detox, weight loss and restoration). The tagline reads: ‘For a longer life, better lived’. I receive my itinerary upon arrival from my personal concierge, who is available 24/7 at the tap of WhatsApp. The schedule looks daunting at first, with nearly every hour (and calorie) accounted for. And I am slightly concerned about my ability to keep up, and that my three set meals and two mostly liquid ‘snacks’ don’t appear to be cacio e pepe and Chianti inclusive. I look around before settling in, as other guests, who are largely here alone, lounge around in their lustrous white dressing gowns, taking their time over their daintily-designed and artfully-curated detox mezze, created by three Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, naturally. 

Waking up early to get going, I open the large windows that face out to the valley to breathe in the morning air, the golden light filling my stunning suite with a unique holiday glow. Before any hiking (or relaxing) takes place, I am sent down to the medical spa for a full shakedown. Found in the hotel’s basement, the staggering wellness warren has myriad divisions. As well as a medical wing (that still looks every inch a spa), I also find the beauty, Roman and Ayurveda sections, as well as the private spa suite, multiple pools, and endless glass corridors leading to various saunas, steams, and snugs.

The doctor takes note of my vitals, while a 3D body scan gets down to business as I stand there in my undies, already regretting the Pringles I scoffed on the flight out (while secretly relieved that there are still some in the room). A Bioelectrical Impedance Analysis takes note of my balance, control, and pressure distribution, with a focus on injury prevention. All the staff are highly trained and dutifully attentive – and if my male step analyst just happens to look like he’s stepped straight off a Milan runway, far be it from me to complain.

The hikes are done early doors, following a modest breakfast, although you do get slightly more when signing up to the hiking programme – a corner of toast with your egg white omelette or baby bear portion of porridge. Our adventure spans a modest range of rocks and forest growth around the Apennine mountains, just outside the quaint municipality of Collepardo. 

Although steep and rocky in places, it is a thoroughly invigorating and scenic way to start the day, and easily doable, regardless of age and ability. There is a real mixture of people in my small walking group; aged between 30-60, they have all travelled alone, flying in from Egypt, Turkey, the US and Western Europe, which seems to be a fair representation among the hotel guests in general. All but one are female.

We chat as we meander in our own time, the sounds of cuckoo birds and woodpeckers in the distance. We spot a deer scrambling among the bushes, and step over some very fluffy wolf poo (undigested rabbit… mmm ragu…) and wild boar markings as we make our way to the exquisite valley viewpoints, spotting an old monastery that we’d get to explore at the finish line. Our sweet, laidback guide points out the tiny purple flowers, only to be picked by those with a licence to make the famous Genziana liqueur. I consider swiping some of the juniper berries dotted about to pound down into moonshine in the freestanding bathtub back in the room (did I mention there’s no alcohol allowed?). 

We reach the ornate ancient monastery, and it is social media catnip. There’s an old pharmacy within, which dates to the 13th century and provides inspiration for many of Palazzo Fiuggi’s teas and tinctures when infused with the famous healing waters for which the area is renowned.

Heading back to the hotel, we enjoy a light lunch of delicious Amberjack tartare and minestrone, plus a few rice crackers upon request (but only because I’d been such a good girl), and then it’s time to try some of the specialist treatments. I float off into dreamland throughout my sound therapy, as I lie in a heated, pulsing bed, headphones cocooning me with hypnotic, soothing notes used to treat war veterans with PTSD. Sound baths, Pranayama breathing, yoga, you name it – mental health and restoration is as high on the agenda as physical endurance.

And the spa. Sampling two of the best deep tissue massages of my life, as well as a Hydrafacial that had other hotel guests remarking on my complexion all day, the treatment menu is endless. Bobbing in and out of the brown, mineral-rich magnesium pool, before floating around in the saltwater tank, my Thalasso Therapy experience culminates with an ice-cold plunge, so freezing it sends shockwaves through my body. Admittedly, I was too chicken to go the whole hog, making it only up to my thighs. The rest of the afternoon is spent dipping between the infrared sauna, my back against the heated rods for extra healing, as well as the steam and salt room.

I’m fortunate that the sun is out and decide to catch some gentle spring rays by the warm outdoor pool, nestled within the picturesque gardens. Coffee is officially contraband (but you can get a sneaky latte if you know who to ask), but the nutrient-rich local water, which you can serve yourself any time by the ‘fountain of life’, is available on tap. If you’re desperate for an illicit fling with some resident fettuccine (some guests have been known to move into the hotel for months at a time) then the local sleepy town, just a five-minute walk away, has enough authentic restaurants to satisfy one night of pasta passion.

I jump for joy as I’m presented with a morsel of delicious cake for breakfast on my last morning, and even better, fresh strawberry jam on the side. The resplendent tea trolley is only whipped out for a wild after-dinner treat, but luckily, I don’t travel anywhere without a bag of trusty Yorkshires, and I’m even able to procure a splash of real cow’s milk. As my unforgettable time at Palazzo Fiuggi comes to an end, I head to my follow-up medical to reflect on my personal journey and any targets, mental or physical, that we discussed on the first day to fine-tune my onward plan. I keep schtum about the Pringles.

Veni, vidi, vici. I came, I saw, I ate a bit more than was strictly kosher, but mind, soul, and body, I do believe I conquered. And I loved every moment. With truly exceptional service – the kind you’d expect in Dubai or Thailand, as opposed to the more laid-back approach that’s common in the Med – Palazzo Fiuggi defines modern luxury: tasteful extravagance, true privacy, and utter escapism. Having barely scratched the surface treatment-wise, I now have a reason to come back. And there’s nowhere I’d rather go – alone. 

From £580 per night, visit palazzofiuggi.com

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