It’s hard to create an architectural marvel in Dubai. Not because of a lack of money (anyone who has visited the most westernised city in the United Arab Emirates will know that’s certainly not a problem here), or a lack of space – it’s purely down to the stiff competition. How do you make a building look impressive when Dubai is already home to the tallest building in the world? And any newcomer is rivalled by the first (and only) seven-star hotel, Burj Al Arab, and the Museum of the Future, one of the most complex structures ever built? You suspend a 230m-long, 100m-high concourse between two asymmetric skyscrapers, fill it with the world’s most decorated chefs, and then pop the longest infinity pool in the country on top of it – that’s how. 

I’m willing to bet you’ve seen pictures of One&Only One Za’abeel. You may not have known it was a hotel, or even that it was in the UAE, but snapshots of the building in Downtown Dubai made news across the globe when it opened in February (helped, of course, by a no-expense-spared launch party attended by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Lopez and Mark Ronson). However, when spades first hit the ground in 2016, the building wasn’t intended to house two hotels and luxury residences – but once One&Only got a whiff of the hard hats and exceptional architects involved, it didn’t take long for it to ensure this building was not only a first for them, but for Dubai. Enter the city’s first-ever vertical resort. 

You only grasp the sheer size of the resort once the Tesla-driving chauffeur picks you up from DXB, zips through the city’s chaotic traffic and drops you at the foot of the behemoth address at the edge of Zabeel Park. To reach reception, a lift will take you up to floor 25. The rooftop pool? Go up two floors. You’d like to reach your room? Elevate another 20 and you’ll be roughly in the right area. 

In a city that’s well versed in pioneering just about everything, One&Only knew that if it was going to be the first to create a vertical resort not only for its brand – which is more synonymous with leafy island escapes in the Maldives and back-to-nature experiences in Mexico – but the city too, it was going to have to be pretty special. And after spending three nights here, I can confirm the word ‘special’ doesn’t even come close. 

All 229 suites have been masterfully designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, and the interiors draw inspiration from the surrounding Za’abeel location. Translating to ‘white sand’ from the local Emirati dialect, expect a soothing neutral colour palette, subtle sand motifs in textiles and artworks, and sculptural lighting throughout. There’s a suite for every desire: for those who wish to be pampered, book one of Sanctuary Suites which come complete with a massage table and menu of in-room spa treatments; the Creative Suites feature acoustic panelling, the latest AV technology, and an in-suite private cocktail soirée for up to 10 guests; while, at the other end of the spectrum, the Urban Suite’s state-of-the-art meeting space has been crafted with business in mind. If you’re willing to splash the cash, book the Villa One Penthouse on the 53rd floor, priced at £25,000 per night and complete with a private pool, gym, several bedrooms and lounges, as well as an army of personal chefs, butlers and assistants at your beck and call. 

Marking yet another first for One&Only, the hotel is home to a one-of-a-kind collection of corner suites featuring 180-degree views of Dubai’s ever-evolving skyline – and lucky guests are asked to pick if they’d like views of the Burj Khalifa or bustling downtown. Upon entering my Skyline Loft (one of said corner suites), I am astounded by its sheer size. Easily the largest hotel room I’ve ever stayed in – measuring 168 square metres and spanning two floors – this designer duplex is a hotel room on steroids, featuring double-height windows with panoramic views across the entire city, spanning Old Dubai to the modern Marina area, creating a cinematic backdrop that makes you feel like you’re living above the city while indulging in a view that only the very few are privy to (plus, the glazing is so good at blocking out the bustle of the city you can hear a pindrop). 

Sumptuous king-sized beds, waterfall showers with Montroi amenities, plunge baths, a well-stocked mini bar – think bottles of Moët and Miraval rosé, with two already chilled in the kitchen’s fridge upon your arrival – a large lounge with three sofas, a dressing room and an eight-person dining room immerses you in a different level of luxury living. 

The layout of the vertical resort takes some getting used to, but once you’ve caught onto the fact that floor four is home to a kid’s club, Balinese-inspired family pool with lush tropical greenery and a swim-up bar, and high-end Indonesian restaurant, Andaliman – serving authentic sambals, beef rendang and nasi goreng – while floors 25 and above are home to One&Only One Za’abeel, you may be asking what fills the other floors? Another hotel, of course. 

Welcome to Siro – the smaller, more compact younger sister of One&Only – that has just one focus: fitness. A unique concept which targets athletes (professional boxer Chris Eubank Jr is a regular guest) and avid gym-goers, this four-floor hotel is committed to optimising physical and mental wellbeing via a seamless fusion of science and technology across five biohacking pillars: nutrition, fitness, sleep, recovery, and mindfulness. Book here to take advantage of the massive Technogym-equipped gym, as well as an exclusive timetable of 50 classes within four exclusive studio spaces, ranging from boxing and cycling to yoga and reformer Pilates. 

The 132 rooms and 12 suites at Siro all feature wake-up technology with motorised blackout blinds designed to nurture guests’ circadian rhythms, while thermo-regulating mattresses ensure optimal sleep conditions by cooling core body temperatures. Don’t feel like you need to leave your room for your morning stretches, as the in-room recovery cabinet is stocked with exercise essentials like stretch bands, meditation cushions, yoga mats, and stretch ladders. Plus, televisions have been replaced with projectors, offering access to virtual recovery sessions. Futuristic fitness at its finest. 

There’s no restaurant at Siro – just a fancy vending machine churning out cold-pressed juices and healthy sandwiches – but not to worry: guests here can also take advantage of One&Only’s The Link. One of the most important hooks for the new hotel was this fine dining foodie paradise, which brought together globally-renowned chefs and masterful mixologists to present the most spectacular culinary offering the UAE (and the world) has ever seen. 

La Dame De Pic

Arrazuna

Inside The Link, discover outposts by 10-time Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic, who has brought her celebrated French flair to Dubai for the first time via a new outpost of La Dame De Pic. There’s also Australian Michelin-starred chef Tetsuya Wakuda’s fusion of Japanese and French cuisines and, my personal favourite, Arrazuna by Mehmet Gürs: a souk-inspired dining hall celebrating the vibrant cuisines of the Middle East and the Arabian Peninsula, with eight interactive kitchens and gourmet counters where you can purchase take-home produce. I could eat the pistachio lamb kebab, çi börek – fried meat pastries with fresh coriander and yogurt – and beef short rib flatbread every day of the week. 

Atop The Link is Tapasake, One&Only’s homegrown concept serving contemporary Nikkei cuisine against the backdrop of unobstructed views of the Dubai skyline and the UAE’s longest suspended infinity pool. Entry to the rooftop pool is priced at 250AED (approximately £54) for visitors, but those who have booked one of the signature suites are granted free access and invited to dine on fresh light bites of hand-rolled sushi, tuna monaka and mushroom wontons. It’s important to note that all of the restaurants here are open to visitors. 

Longevity Hub by Clinique La Prairie

Finally, we move on to the spa. The all-encompassing, three-storey Longevity Hub by Clinique La Prairie – the first of its kind in the UAE – does exactly what the name suggests by harnessing the latest technologies in health science to provide its clients with bespoke wellness journeys. The 29 treatment rooms host clinical-style therapies, including the uber-relaxing 60-minute revitalising massage – a signature treatment that targets energy flow in the body via precise pressures at various speeds and sequences to leave you feeling reset and rebalanced. If that doesn’t do the trick, consult one of the four resident experts, doctors and dermatologists, on hand to help you with every ailment. 

One&Only One Za’abeel is almost overwhelming in its levels of luxury. Combine all of the above with impeccable service – I’m often referred to by name, and greeted with a charming hand-on-heart gesture, by every staff member – the brand’s first vertical resort is a resounding success. Good luck to any future Dubai hotel that attempts to compete with it. 

From £578 per night. 

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