I was on the shores of the Zambezi River for less than 10 minutes before I came across a herd of elephants bathing on its banks. One was in the water, its body barely visible save for the trunk gently showering its back, while three cows and calves looked on. Mere moments upstream, a pod of hippos disguised as rocks swayed in the undulating rhythm of Zimbabwe’s most storied waterway, while young crocodiles and fish eagles zipped across the landscape. It was as if, from the off, Zimbabwe wanted to immerse me in what it knows to be its greatest draw: wildlife. 

Majestic, undoubtedly, but also a little discombobulating given that a mere 15 hours earlier I’d been at Heathrow Terminal Five waiting to board a flight to Johannesburg. Thank heavens, then, for the warmth and song I’m greeted with by the team of guides, chefs and personal butlers as I step off a connecting boat and onto the river pavilion at Mpala Jena Camp. I’m among the first UK media to discover the camp’s latest extension – a tented luxury hideaway nestled in the Zambezi National Park – that promises exclusivity to end all exclusivity with the launch of two private-hire villas. 

The first new addition since the all-inclusive camp’s launch in 2019, the villas are set five kilometres away from the main lodge and can be accessed either by boat (the quickest route) or on land through the national park. Mpala Jena, named after the rare and legendary white impala that once dominated Zimbabwe’s plains, is intentionally sandwiched between the country’s two greatest terrains to guarantee ample wildlife viewing – walking along the villa’s decking, I see a warthog scamper into the bush and listen to the hum of hippos grunting – and its raison d’être is to offer a bespoke blend of land and water safaris. 

First impressions count, and Mpala Jena Villas make an extraordinary impact. The brainchild of owners Kevin and Shannon Lang, and created in collaboration with architect Julia Rotherford, award-winning interior designer Tracy Kelly, and Dereck and Beverly Joubert of Great Plains (more on that later), the property has been carefully curated to echo the charm of its sister camp while offering a more European edge. 

Accessed via a wooden walkway suspended above a natural watering hole – frequented day and night by zebra and warthog, and quite literally coming alive with the sound of frogs as dusk descends – the main hub takes the form of a thatched roofed pavilion housing a serene lounge and bar. It’s the first nod to Kelly’s penchant for Puglian design, with the entire villa complex inspired by trulli: the traditional dry-stone houses with conical roofs found exclusively in Italy’s southern region. Dressed in gorgeous sage green hues complemented by suede touches, stone walls, beamed ceilings and prints depicting Zimbabwe’s native plants, the design combines the Med with Africa – and is definitely a sight for travel-weary eyes. 

Impeccable service has become synonymous with the safari experience, and Mpala Jena’s team is no exception to the rule. Every welcome begins with a drink – think grenadine and ginger flutes, or cucumber and mint coolers – in a lounge that opens out onto a shaded terrace furnished with plump white chairs, hanging rattan shades and sunbeds centred around an expansive infinity pool. Here, you’ll find a Tulum-meets-Africa beach-style bar fringed with swings for seats, alongside a cushion-clad firepit commanding views of the Zambezi. So far, so five-star luxury hotel – until, of course, you remember that all this is reserved for just a handful of guests. 

The villa comprises three river-facing suites – one standalone, the other interconnected to create a two bedroom apartment – all linked by raised wooden walkways (good news for those not so keen on walking on the wild side, as it means the likelihood of bumping into mammals is so slim you rarely need to be escorted). Inside the one-bedroom space (which is bigger than my London flat), Kelly has further incorporated Puglian features, such as arched windows and shuttered doors, earthy textures and pops of ceramics, alongside details designed to bring the outside in, like animal-print rugs and the fish-shaped hooks from which to hang your linen robes. 

Providing more than ample space for a couple, the riverside retreat boasts its own veranda and living room, but the real stand-out feature for me (alongside the plush king size bed anchoring the space) is the indoor-outdoor bathroom. A circular, turret-like space crowned with an open roof, and a shuttered (and mosquito-net-shielded) window should you wish to risk washing while elephants peep in, this rainfall shower is a unique experience in and of itself. 

Being part of the Great Plains portfolio not only ensures streamlined service and the height of luxury in the bush – the group manages 15 owned and partner properties in Botswana, Kenya and Zimbabwe, and has been delivering some of the world’s most meaningful and considerate itineraries since 2006 – but also in-suite touches designed to enhance any safari experience. High-spec binoculars and higher-spec professional Canon cameras with uber-long lenses are loaned to every guest for the duration of their stay, owed to the Joubert’s National Geographic filmmaking careers and desire to offer guests all the equipment they need without the hassle of transporting it. 

Another criterion that is vital to the Jouberts and their conservation work is that all camps are sustainably-minded. Unlike other Great Plains camps which have been designed to be dismantled without leaving a mark on the environment, Mpala Jena Private Villas is a permanent, bricks-and-mortar structure with a carbon footprint that has been kept to a minimum. Every plug and light is powered entirely by a solar energy plant a stone’s throw from the camp, all materials were carefully selected to minimise transportation impact, every bit of waste is recycled and the camp uses a reverse-osmosis system to filter its water. When it comes to living in harmony with nature, Mpala Jena certainly walks the walk. 

Of course, no stay here would be complete without a visit to Victoria Falls. A 40-minute drive through the national park, where you will no doubt meet a journey of giraffes or a dazzle of zebras, the UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the Seven Wonders of the World is, rather unsurprisingly, a serious tourist attraction. The eponymous town that clustered around the historic waterfall, locally known as Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that thunders’), has transformed into something of a metropolis in recent years – but Mpala Jena’s seasoned guides know how to avoid the crowds. 

Victoria Falls

Having access to the crème de la crème of Zimbabwe’s safari guides doesn’t only enhance the entire experience but also justifies Mpala Jena’s price tag. An obvious but integral element to enjoying safari is feeling safe, and Great Plains goes to great lengths to put you in the best hands. Our guide, Shephard, had been working in the area for more than a decade and was adept at listening to animal calls, spotting tracks and finding the hideaways where mammals, such as kudu, giraffe, water buck, elephants and baboons congregate. Itineraries vary depending on guest desires, but start at around 5am each morning to catch the dawn chorus and recommence at 5pm to catch dusk grazers (and offer sundowners). 

The latter is a no-expense-spared experience which begins every early evening activity, with the Mpala Jena team scouting out and setting up the ultimate sundowner spots before you arrive. One evening, I was whisked by boat to a safe, secluded spot on the untouched banks of the Zambezi for a Zimbabwean G&T; the next, a ‘bush bar’ was constructed at the front of the jeep, and a glass of champagne was offered as I watched an elephant and her calf cross the track in the distance. If you’re considering safari for a honeymoon or special anniversary (and you should), life will offer few more romantic moments than this.

Uniquely, Mpala Jena offers the best of three worlds when it comes to safari: drives, boats and on foot. The expert guides make the most of the terrain by never offering the same activity twice in one day, meaning an early morning drive will likely be complemented by a boat trip on the Zambezi at sunset, while also being on top off all the details, whether that’s what time you want dinner each evening or the location of your flight the following day. As a result, every operation is faultless and makes guests feel utterly cared for from the moment they arrive until long after they leave. 

This refined level of African hospitality is felt throughout my stay, but especially at mealtimes. Camp chefs have to be inventive – food is delivered from the capital of Harare once a week – but the work of Mpala Jena Private Villas head chef Yusani is as delicious as it is meticulous. There are no set menus here, but pre-agreed dishes designed to celebrate Zimbabwe’s provenance, from homemade granola, berry compote and breakfast muffins in the morning (all before a cooked breakfast); buffet-style lamb burgers, fresh salads, homemade coleslaw and handcut chips at lunch; to four-course fare in the evening featuring local steak drizzled with homemade peppercorn sauce and paired with the best South African wines money can buy. 

Mpala Jena Camp

All of this is offered alongside high tea before the evening safari, where pillow-like chocolate cakes topped with fresh buttercream and homemade sausage rolls, washed down with creamy coffee or cranberry ice tea, fuel your time in the bush. Villa guests also have the option to dine at the sister camp, home to a feet-in-the-sand bar, decked pool area, and firepit for social sundowners and snacks. At Mpala Jena, you will never go hungry. 

There’s long been a stereotype that Zimbabwe’s safaris play second fiddle to Kenya and Botswana – but Mpala Jena proves that simply isn’t the case. Its remarkable location on the fringes of the Zambezi enables it to offer a rare combination of land and water safaris, where wildlife thrives and one of the Seven Wonders of the World is close at hand. Combine that with design-led interiors, authentic African hospitality, exceptional guides and the villa’s exclusivity, and you truly have the trip of a lifetime. This is Zimbabwe like you have never seen it before. 

Nightly rates at Mpala Jena Private Villas start from $6,370 (£4,765) on an all-inclusive basis. Journeysmiths (+44 1604 628979; Journeysmiths.co.uk) offers tailor-made travel to Victoria Falls and Botswana, with a six-night stay at Mpala Jena, Sitatunga Private Island and Zarafa (two nights in each camp) from £9,685 per person all-inclusive, with private transfers, based on two sharing, including return flights from London (Economy Class) with British Airways.

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