There are two types of people in this world: those who can ski, and those who can’t. For a long time, if you were in the latter camp, eschewing your Greek island holiday for a break in the Austrian Alps was certainly not on your bucket list. Well, how times – and, perhaps more importantly, the climate – has changed. 

Once the sole reserve of skiers and hikers, the mountains are increasingly becoming a top choice for European holidays. Buzzwords like ‘alpine summer’ and ‘coolcation’ are trending, and, according to data from Google, UK search interest for the former is up 82 per cent year-on-year. It’s not just because a summer break in the Alps, Dolomites, or Pyrenees has become seriously Instagrammable and à la mode, but because the Mediterranean, which would usually see the bulk of bookings at this time of year, has simply become too hot. As the UK and Wales record the driest July since records began, Europe has also seen concerningly hot temperatures, exceeding 40°C in multiple countries across the summer. So, where to go to be cool (both literally and metaphorically)? To the mountains. 

Catering to crowds of tourists now looking to make the most of Europe’s verdant, lofty peaks, a flurry of hotels have adopted a four-season model. At the forefront of this trend was Hotel Nesslerhof: the five-star, family-run alpine resort in the heart of Austria’s fairytale Großarl (Grossarl) Valley, roughly an hour south of Salzburg. 

Since buying it in 2011, the Neudegger family has revolutionised the property, enhancing the original building (which dates back to 1643) and adding two more, one in 2016 and the other in 2023, to create an interconnecting 86-key behemoth which seamlessly assimilates into the Grossarl landscape. The Neudeggers – who are very much hands-on at the property and you will no doubt meet during your stay – boldly decided from inception to keep Hotel Nesslerhof’s doors open throughout the year. In comparison, the famed Das Edelweiss Salzburg Mountain Resort, which is just a couple of doors down, only decided to become year-round in 2026. 

Nesslerhof naturally comes into its own in the winter – boasting ski-in/ski-out access to the Grossarltal-Dorfgastein area within the Ski Amadé network, Europe’s largest ski region, promising 70km of slopes, 18 modern lifts and reliable snow from December to April – but can also be credited with helping put the Grossarl in the summer spotlight. Which is how I found myself sitting on Hotel Nesslerhof’s sun-drenched terrace in the middle of a July 26°C heatwave, on a very important assignment to discover just how luxurious an alpine summer trip can truly be. Spoiler alert: book Nesslerhof and you’ll find not only luxury, but authenticity, in spades. 

While the surrounding slice of the Hohe Tauern mountains, which look like the set of The Sound of Music (Salzburg did host much of the filming for the 1965, Oscar-winning movie), does a good job of immersing you in traditional Austrian alpine culture, Nesslerhof takes its heritage seriously. Case in point, all staff (which includes the Neudegger’s three daughters), whether at reception or serving your coffee on the terrace, are dressed in tracht; menus detail the exact locales, such as Tauern Sennerei run by the Huber family, from which the hotel has sourced its milk, sausages, honey and bread; and traditional sauna culture is not only honoured, but celebrated. 

The spa itself is so huge, you could get lost in it. Spanning two floors and more than 5,000 square metres, head downstairs to the adults-only wellness area – flanked by a sign commanding ‘naked beyond this point’ – to discover five themed saunas, ranging from the classic Finnish to the soothing Swiss pine Zirbenholz. Daily special infusions and holistic sauna rituals with names such as ‘clear head’ or ‘wellness balance’ are led by in-house experts, while those who prefer to sauna solo can book a suite fitted with its own private sauna and infrared cabin (more on that later). 

Alongside the eight relaxation rooms, and fitness studio complete with daily yoga and reformer Pilates sessions, it would be remiss not to book into Beauty by Ness, where wellness treatments harness fresh fruits, sea salt, vitamins, and algae – think sea salt oil exfoliations and vitamin cocktail body wraps – and the selection of Comfort Zone-charged facials and Balance Alpine 1000+ massages provide the ultimate R&R. 

The latest addition to Hotel Nesslerhof’s award-winning spa is an onsen-inspired outdoor pool experience. Designed to replicate the calming rituals of Japanese hot spring bathing, the outdoor onsen peaks at 42°C and is paired with panoramic mountain views to induce deep relaxation and mindfulness. Embrace the traditional hot-and-cold bathing ritual by alternating between the onsen and a nearby cold plunge pond, or wrap up in your white, fluffy robe and Nesslerhof-branded sandals to venture over to the saltwater pool for an equally refreshing dip. 

It’s hard not to be impressed by Nesslerhof’s waterways. Wrapping around the front of the hotel, and framed by valley vistas, the bright azure indoor-outdoor heated pool is a striking contrast, in both colour and experience, to the green saltwater natural pond it fringes. I prefer the latter, which is enveloped by sunbed-dotted decking, manicured gardens and pretty parasols which, on a warm day, could easily fool you into thinking you’re in the Tuscan hills rather than the Austrian Alps. I’m told that in the winter, staff carve out a hole in the frozen pond to create a cold-plunge experience – and considering a dip in the outdoor pool took my breath away in July, I’m not sure how I would fare in January. 

Feeling hungry? Nesslerhof operates on an all-inclusive basis, serving local delicacies and all-day dining at its expansive Atelier N restaurant. While the concept, at least during the day, is informal – guests are welcome to pad around the restaurant in their robes, and a conventional lunch is replaced by a lighter ‘afternoon plate’ concept which serves soups and salads – service is slick and unhurried, with each guest designated their own table across three dining rooms at the beginning of their stay so they always know where they’re sitting. 

Alongside the buffet – which always include local cheeses and charcuterie, whether it’s 9am or 9pm– there’s always the opportunity to order hot dishes to your table, which at breakfast means omelettes or pancakes, and at dinner can include confit salmon fillet with balsamic lentils and kohlrabi, or local Tauern lamb with polenta and ratatouille. For a fine dining experience, head chef Lukas Dichtl offers a five-course signature menu every evening, priced at an additional €50, with an optional wine pairing sourced from the hotel’s glass, temperature-controlled cellar, where cases of Krug and Ruinart are stacked alongside local wines. 

All of which provides more than enough sustenance for you to get out and explore – which is the real raison d’être for Nesslerhof during the summer months. You have a plethora of hiking and biking routes at your fingertips thanks to the hotel’s curated app, which can be accessed via a QR code on arrival. Detailing altitude and completion time, each route is illustrated by images and a map, but for those who aren’t tech-minded, head to the hotel’s dedicated Happiness Concierge for personalised routes, recommendations and experiences, such as candle-lit terrace dining or guided forest walks. 

My favourite hike started at Sonneggbrücke (book a taxi to get there) and took me on a three-hour route through lush, green alms, pine-fringed trails and, most importantly for foodies, pitstops at three traditional huts: Unterwandalm, which serves beer and buttermilk with a side of folk song; the oldest hut in the region, Karseggalm, famous for its smoked cheese; and Breitenebenalm, which provides perfect sweet treats of apple strudel and blueberry dumplings during your descent. 

Another great choice is to make the most of the adjacent Kieserlbahn cable car to elevate 2,000 metres to Wolke 7: a stylish sky lounge and restaurant co-run by the hotel. There are plenty of signposted walks here too – each yellow sign states how long the hike takes, and whether there’s restaurants en route – but I recommend refuelling at Wolke 7 to enjoy ice-cold wines and beers, hot drinks, and freshly-prepared plates including veal schnitzel with fries and cranberries, and weisswurst (white sausage) with sweet mustard and pretzels. 

So, where to rest your head? Across Nesslerhof’s aforementioned three buildings are an array of accommodations, including a collection of newly refurbished rooms and suites. Stand-out stays include the Glücksrausch suite, complete with a terrace and whirlpool, and Hochgefühl, which features its own ‘outdoor spa’ with a sauna, whirlpool and rooftop terrace with loungers. 

Inside my top-floor suite, the space is rendered in local wood and soft earthy tones, while floor-to-ceiling windows and a wraparound terrace bring the outside in. A small bottle of Perrier Jouët Grand Brut champagne awaits in the room, while other amenities include a curated selection of homemade wellness products, herbal essentials and invigorating Kruut shots from local Austrian brand Nature Human. The open-plan bathroom and bedroom ensure the spaces flow seamlessly, while the welcome addition of a sauna – complete with oils to create your own infusion – means you don’t even have to leave your room to not only focus on your wellbeing, but boost your ‘natural happiness’. 

It may sound cliché, but happiness is at the heart of Hotel Nesslerhof. From its family-run ethos, to its award-winning spa, design-forward rooms and local cuisine, this hotel immerses its guests in the Austrian Alps and everything that comes with it. In fact, I’d say it would be extremely hard indeed to not feel happier at Hotel Nesslerhof. 

From £428 per night. 

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