Four Seasons Hotel Megève: A sophisticated alpine resort for those in the know
The Four Seasons’ only mountain property in Europe boasts skiing savoir-faire – but there’s much more to this resort than its location on the slopes
Think of high-end ski resorts and France’s Michelin-starred haven Courchevel, the royal-approved slopes of Lech in Austria (Princess Diana was a fan), and the glitzy, glamorous Swiss wonderland of St Moritz probably spring to mind. The magical mountains of Megève, which fringes Mont Blanc within the Rhône-Alpes? Perhaps not so much – and that’s exactly what means this understated but sophisticated ski resort remains the preserve of those in the know.
Founded more than a century ago, the transformation of Megève from a sleepy alpine village into an all-singing, all-dancing ski resort is courtesy of Baroness Noémie de Rothschild, of the eponymous European banking dynasty. In 1919, she enlisted her ski instructor, Trygve Smith, to find a prime, undeveloped location within the French Alps that could rival the likes of St Moritz. Smith suggested both Megève and Val d’Isère – an area that, at the time, was difficult to access but is now one of the world’s most famous ski spots – and Rothschild chose the former, namely for its accessibility, gentle slopes and afternoon sunshine. What followed were decades pumped full of investment, visits from both European and Hollywood royalty (Albert I of Belgium sojourned here in 1922, before Audrey Hepburn in the 1960s) and, as if by magic and money, Megève was put firmly on the map.
That said, the Four Seasons Hotel Megève didn’t open its doors until 2017. A collaboration between the five-star hotel group and the Edmond de Rothschild Heritage group, it was the latter’s CEO, Ariane de Rothschild, who was at the helm of the development – and her keen eye for detail is evident throughout the three interconnected chalets that form the resort.
Wine Cellar
Four Seasons Hotel Megève Lobby
Ariane handpicked much of the art that embellishes the dark wood walls of Four Seasons Megève and, upon entering, you’ll be met by a colourful three-metre mural by Wang Keping. Setting the tone for the rest of the six-floor hotel, look out for vibrant pieces picked up from her global travels, including an eclectic collection of Thierry Bruet canvases (her particular penchant for the French artist sees 120 of his works displayed in the hotel), glass engraver Gilles Chabrier’s specially-commissioned reception desk – a glass block resembling a cube of ice cut from a glacier – and Jeremy Maxwell’s blown glass works that suspend from ceilings, adorn bedside tables and form dinner settings.
The art collection isn’t the only Rothschild creation to marvel at. Lying at the heart of the hotel, the magnificent wine cellar offers a taste of the hedonistic decadence that has become the family’s legacy. The private, vaulted, bodyguard-protected cellar houses more than 1,500 wines from acclaimed estates as well as lesser-known vineyards, ranging from Château Lafitte’s mythical vintages (1869, 1898, 1920) to Rothschild Heritage properties such as Château Clarke and Château des Laurets. Even the most discerning oenophiles will be wowed.
Ariane tapped into the acclaimed creative nous of French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon to decorate the 55 rooms. In my junior suite, the expansive terrace that overlooks the steaming outdoor pool and expansive mountain vistas does a lot of the talking, while the dark, moody palette creates a cosy cocoon that spans a large living space, double bedroom, two marble bathrooms, more-than-ample wardrobe space and a secluded office area boasting the kind of scenic snow-capped vistas most city commuters could only dream of.
For those averse to alpine wood, the interiors team were naturally one step ahead. Enter Suite Mont D’Arbois: a sanctuary rendered in cloud-like whites and baby blues across a king-sized bedroom, massive walk-in wardrobe, beautiful living space with golden fireplaces and more bathrooms than you can shake a stick at. It’s the most popular suite at Four Seasons Megève for a reason.
When I arrive, the hotel is on the two-week countdown to closing at the end of its winter season – but shows no signs of slowing down. Those yearning to get straight on the slopes can be at Mont D’Arbois – the gateway to the ski resort – pronto thanks to the fleet of Defenders that shuttle guests to and from. However, I’d suggest lingering a little longer in true Megèvan style with a bite to eat at the laidback bistro-style Edmond’s which boasts a quaint terrace with views across to Vallée de Arly. Service is as you’d expect at the Four Seasons: slick, efficient and thoughtful.
Naturally, skiing is Four Seasons Megève’s raison d’etre. You’ll spot guests wearing salopettes at breakfast, ESF-approved instructors fringing the hotel’s entrance at 9am, and a button lift which takes you directly to the foot of Mont D’Arbois just a few steps away, making this the only hotel in the area with direct ski-in, ski-out access. Le Ski Room, however, is what makes this hotel stand out. Expect to be fitted with boots and skis in under 15 minutes thanks to the attentive team – who also offer a complimentary array of energy bars, water bottles and espresso pick-me-ups – collect your ski passes at the concierge desk, and be on your way. You barely have to lift a finger: the team will practically put your boots on for you before carrying your skis to the car. Return the next day to find your boots have been warmed in your designated locker and your skis have been freshly-waxed. If this experience alone doesn’t tempt you to book a stay, I don’t know what will.
Le Ski Room
I arrived in Megève as a beginner skier but, thanks to a private three-hour lesson with ESF instructor Marie, I quickly swapped snow ploughs for parallel turns (no mean feat for someone who has only skied once in their life, I’d like to think). The ski resort ranges from an altitude of 850m to a peak of 2,350m on Mont Joly, marked by a plethora of easy green and blue slopes at lower levels, as well as blacks and reds further up the mountain. The beauty of Megève is that it is both the perfect place for one to gain their ski legs, while appeasing casual crowds looking to saunter in the snow rather than race. As such, it offers a quieter, more sophisticated vibe, where après is defined by ice-cold Barons De Rothschild champagne on the terrace instead of raucous parties – and who could possibly complain about that?
When you’ve spent all day on the slopes, food is fuel – and the four dining outlets at Four Seasons Megève offer both style and substance. The aforementioned Edmond’s is the place to be when the sun is shining, while fine dining menus can be found at both Kaito – where flawlessly fresh sashimi, tataki and sushi rubs shoulders with delicately-crafted alpine specialties – and Brasserie Benjamin. The latter is the newest culinary concept, where head chef and Anne-Sophie Pic protégé Armando Acquaviva has created a quintessentially French restaurant to replace Pic’s former Michelin-starred eponymous eatery. Pic’s departure doesn’t seem like a loss when Acquaviva’s menus are so delectable. Opt for the seven-course game tasting menu for a true taste of France: think foie gras terrine, beef ragu, and classic tournedos rossini (as well as two desserts, in case you weren’t already full).
Brasserie Benjamin
Idéal 1850
The culinary crown jewel, however, sits at an elevation of 1,850 metres on the Mont d’Arbois summit. Open to Four Seasons guests and those traversing the slopes, the Giorgio Armani-dressed Idéal 1850 offers dizzying views of Mont Blanc served with a side of local specialities, such as savoy ham tartiflette, Mont d’Or melting cheese and potatoes, wagyu mac Rothschild burger, and beef bourguignon. While diners can spend their hours on the terrace, few are aware of the Suite Idéal which overlooks it: an exclusive three-bedroom retreat that epitomises alpine chic.
So familiar with cameras and crews is the Four Seasons – the brand is the renowned partner of hit HBO series The White Lotus – that its Megève outpost, and specifically Suite Idéal, was chosen as the backdrop for the latest season of Netflix’s Emily in Paris. As a result, the hotel swiftly launched the Night Above the Clouds package, where guests are invited to follow in the footsteps of protagonist Lily Collins with a one-night stay on the slopes – featuring a dinner of Savoyard specialties and French wines selected by sommelier Samy Sbiti – followed by the unique privilege of being the first to ski on freshly fallen powder.
Idéal 1850
Suite Idéal
Don’t ski? Both Megève town and the hotel cater for those who haven’t caught the bug. Arrange a complimentary shuttle via Whatsapp to be dropped off in the centre of the quaint, cobble-lined streets of Megève, home to as many luxury boutiques as Bond Street as well as elegant bars and restaurants heaving with both tourists and locals (so you know they’re good). Working closely with Megève Tourisme – who ensure this corner of the Haute-Savoie region is as much a summer destination as it is winter wonderland – the hotel can arrange an array of tailored, family-friendly activities so you can discover the region's most beautiful secrets: think dog-sleigh rides accompanied by a real Musher, electric mountain biking, hot air balloon rides, paragliding or helicopter flights, hiking or snowshoeing below Mont Blanc, and, my personal favourite, stepping back in time and discovering the village of Megève in a horse-drawn carriage.
Back at the hotel, soothe your ski legs at the largest spa in the region, found on the first floor. With an indoor-outdoor pool continuously heated to a balmy 28 degrees, an afternoon here offers skiers a rejuvenating après activity. Take your relaxation one step further by booking a treatment at the Art Deco-designed treatment rooms, offering specialist therapies such as an alpine recovery deep tissue massage and anti-ageing facial by Gemology.
Come rain or shine, winter or summer, there’s something to please every well-heeled traveller at Four Seasons Megève – and while skiing is its reason for being, there’s much more than just slopes here. If you’re looking for carefully-curated luxury, unfaltering service, and haute cuisine in one of the most exclusive ski resorts in the world – where adrenaline junkies carving up the slopes are replaced by elegant, easy-breezy runs – don’t say we didn’t tell you where to find it.
From £2,000 per night.
