Anyone who has been to Cancún will know it’s rather unauthentically Mexican. A beachside city fringing the Caribbean Sea, it’s Quintana Roo’s most popular holiday hotspot attracting nearly 10 million tourists per year. But with such an influx – and one that’s become synonymous with American spring-breakers looking to let loose at its abundance of clubs and bars – Cancún has evolved into a party destination rather than a cultural haven. Cancún to the States is what Bali is to Australia, and what Ibiza is to the UK. It, unfortunately, has a reputation that precedes it. 

However, not every town on this stretch of Mexican coastline has succumbed to the same fate. A 40-minute drive by car, but a world away in every other sense of the word, is Riviera Maya. It’s often overlooked as a mere gateway to nearby Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Isla Mujeres and Holbox. But if there was a hotel group to put this jungle-lined enclave on the map, and promise Mexican tradition and authenticity in abundance, it would be Chablé. Having opened in 2018, Chablé Maroma followed in the footsteps of its acclaimed sister property in Yucatán – but with a very different vibe. 

One of Chablé Yucatán’s key USPs is the fact that it’s enveloped within Mexico’s most storied, isolated jungle, while Maroma is a coastal resort. There are, of course, similarities – turquoise touches throughout the décor, moon showers, morning deliveries of coffee and pastries, Michelin-starred restaurants (rather standard at Chablé) and world-class spas (another expectation, not an exception) – but having visited both, they feel distinctly different. Visiting one Chablé property does not mean you have visited them all. 

Take a turn off Playa del Carmen’s main highway to find a path less trodden – and Chablé Maroma hidden behind a quiet, discreet entrance. Instead of being immediately met by lapping waves, a journey into Maroma starts at an open-air pavilion which – dressed in raffia, a neutral palette, wooden swing chairs and crowned with a thatched roof – sets the tone for the rest of the property (as does the swift arrival of a welcome drink; pick from hibiscus juice or an ice-cold Corona). The brainchild of Mexican architect and designer Paulina Morán, the verdant, jungle-dense labyrinth is peppered with leafy interconnecting alleyways and 70 villas before opening up to a 650-foot stretch of private white-powder beach. 

Each casita is designed to be its own secluded sanctuary, where white-washed stone walls and thatched roofs provided blank canvases for Moran to inflect colourful accents across the bedroom and bathroom. Some say it’s a shame that the villas aren’t directly on the beach – but Chablé doesn’t feel the need to reinvent the wheel (and nor should it) when it comes to accommodation that’s more synonymous with somewhere like the Maldives. Sleeping and living in the heart of a protected jungle, which happens to be steeped in Mayan culture, and mere moments from the beach gives you the best of both worlds. 

Inside my Serenity Pool Villa, dark wood is complemented by a pop of azure blue, matching the hue of the heated plunge pools and sunbeds outside on the private terrace. As at Yucatán, floor-to-ceiling windows bring the outside in – keep an eye out for the coatis strolling through the flora – while the signature moon showers are hidden by protected shrubs native to this part of the coast. Sit here with your book and you could hear a pin drop, with nothing but the distant crash of waves and the occasional chirp of woodpeckers and hummingbirds to keep you company. 

Chablé Maroma’s epicentre is the beach, where a cocktail bar, two restaurants, beachside pool and sunbed-smattered sand combine. Making the most of its coastal locale, opt for sunrise yoga for easy flows to start your morning, beach biking (easier than it sounds, trust me) to the nearby marina, or a visit to a nearby cenote where you can experience the magic of these Mexican sinkholes for yourself. Don’t leave Maroma without diving into the second-largest barrier reef in the world, which lies directly in front of the hotel, where resident marine biologists from conservation group Oceanus AC can talk you through the underwater wildlife and efforts to preserve and rejuvenate coral. 

The hotel is first and foremost a five-star resort, but its world-class spa has earned it recognition as a healing haven. Centred around the hydrotherapy circuit, where the mini jacuzzi and cold plunge pools replicate the circular cenotes that can be found across this stretch of coast, the spa feels completely removed from the rest of the hotel. Treatment menus nod to contemporary, modern therapies but its Maroma’s Mayan rituals, drawing on the power of air, sea and trees, that you won’t find elsewhere. 

Indulge in the three-hour Ya’axche forest awakening ritual, where essential oils from balsam fir, juniper, and cypress trees cleanse the lymphatic system, or the two-hour Sound of the Sea treatment, which includes a water ceremony, seaweed wrap to draw out toxins and warming sea fennel massage to chase away fatigue. A highlight is the herbal pindas workshop – where you can indulge your inner child and make your own keepsake cloth bags filled with medicinal herbs grown in local ka’anches – and while I’d be the first to admit that sound healing isn’t my thing, the energetic sound and stone cleansing session lulled me into a state of relaxation I didn’t think possible.  

A must, however, is temazcal. What looks, from the outside, to be a large pizza oven is actually one of the most sacred wellbeing experiences still practiced in Mexico today. Otherwise known as a purification ceremony, temazcal is based on all elements of life – air, fire, earth, and water – and aims to connect participants with Mother Nature. Guided by a Mayan shaman, the ritual can span up to two hours and begins with a healing herbal infusion being poured over heated volcanic stones, also called abuelas (grandmothers) in honour of the figures Mayans traditionally looked to for guidance, to create an intense aromatic steam. 

The heat, combined with ancestral drums and chants, is designed to cleanse and rejuvenate from the inside out. Expect to sweat, laugh, smile and cry; it’s emotional but that’s the point. It requires mind over matter – you’ll likely want to leave halfway through the two hours because of the heat – but I suggest you stay, if you can, for the full experience. Especially when the reward at the end is running into the lapping waves beyond the sweat lodge, while plates of fresh fruit and ice-cold water await on the sunbeds. 

Bu'ul

Within 24 hours of arrival at the hotel, I’d be willing to bet the staff not only know your name and casita number, but also your go-to cocktail or coffee. Service is unflappable without being overwhelming, and is showcased across every part of Chablé but especially at its bars and restaurants. The al fresco restaurant Kaban, situated adjacent to the pool, is named after the 17^th symbol in the Mayan calendar and is associated with spiritual evolution. Dishes here hark back to simple but extremely effective recipes passed down through generations, ranging from rancheros eggs with tortilla, beans, avocado and cotija cheese for breakfast to chilaquiles, enfrijoladas and quesadillas. Tacos, naturally, come in every flavour and form; don’t miss fillings of flank steak with guacamole and cactus leaves, or suckling pig with onion and coriander. Best enjoyed with a paloma in hand, and on a sunbed underneath a swaying palm. Obviously. 

Kaban specialises in all-day menus, but fine dining fare at Bu’ul – meaning ‘bean’ – is the jewel in Maroma’s crown. Overseen by chef Jorge Vallejo, widely considered to be Mexico’s greatest culinary talent, and executed by chef Carlos Navarrete, Bu’ul has carved out a reputation for fine food on the Caribbean coast and was awarded its Michelin star in 2022. Paying homage to the flavours of the Yucatán, and surrounded by eye-catching fire pits, I recommend indulging in the Peninsula tasting menu to enjoy six courses including pickled venison tortillas, creamy rice with locally-sourced blue shrimp, duck with black ‘chichilo’ mole and cocoa bean tamal with blue corn ice cream. Pair with sommelier Michael González’s selection of Mexican and international fine wines, and peek at the equally impressive wine cave, for a night to remember. 

The Raw Bar

The Raw Bar, which sits atop Bu’ul, takes its cues from the same kitchen – so expect extremely good things, just in the form of small plates – and offers panoramic views of the coastline beyond. Head here for a sundowner or two (the mixology team can whip up practically any concoction you can think of) and watch a pod of Caribbean brown pelicans skim the skyline while you sip. The Mezcalita de Kiwi (mezcal, kiwi and lime) is a standout serve that I ordered over and over again, while the Passion Mule blends smoked chipotle, passion fruit and ginger beer for a drink that is as imaginative as it is delectable. 

While Chablé Maroma is, in many ways, poles apart from its award-winning sister in Yucatán, it has always been its shadow. But after staying in this hotel – occupying a unique slice of Riviera Maya without succumbing to the chaos that radiates from Cancún in the north, and Tulum in the south – I believe it should have its own spotlight. Having thoroughly reimagined my expectations of a Mexican beach resort, Maroma is the type of hotel that encourages you to indulge in its fruitful offering as ardently as it invites you to rejuvenate the next morning. For those who want the best of both worlds in terms of jungle and coast – and then some – Maroma has it all. 

From £550 per night. 

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