I’m not one for jetting off to destinations new, only to check into a hotel and never venture outside its parameters. Well, I wasn’t until I arrived at Tuscany’s Castelfalfi, which by some miracle of hospitality soothed my restless holiday energy and gave me little reason to leave. And, boy, did that feel good. 

Castelfalfi is not like an ordinary hotel. Located between the wondrous landscapes of Pisa, Florence, and Siena, it lies on its very own, very large estate, covering almost 3,000 acres of luscious Tuscan land. With endless woodland, vineyards, and olive groves on its doorstep, and what was once a quietly quaint medieval borgo (village), the borderless hamlet has been restored and revived into a picturesque location for travellers to dwell, unwind, and never want to step out of.

First, a little bit of context: the borgo dates back to 700AD, and you can practically feel the history, from the ancient stone buildings and cobblestone streets to the San Floriano church, hilltop castle, and fairytale-like Medicean park. The estate was once home to noble families, including the Caetanis and Medicis, and since opening as a hotel destination in 2017, has been modernised and refined by Indonesian entrepreneur Sri Prakash Lohia to welcome a more modern well-heeled traveller. Under Lohia’s ownership, Castelfalfi has become a sought-after setting for out-of-towners and local guests alike, while maintaining its heritage, character, and secluded charm. 

Passing abundant green fields and pretty floral arrangements, and with the borgo in the distance, I was shown to my room, which, in all seriousness, could have fit a small family. The space was vast, my bed gigantic, and the bathroom my own mini spa, mirroring the rolling landscape outside. The hotel’s 115 guest rooms are split across its main building and an old tobacco workhouse, which offers a more rustically chic vibe. There are also seven villas scattered across the estate, ideal for larger parties, alongside the newly unveiled Stefano Ricci penthouse – a two-bedroom apartment imagined by the eponymous Florentine designer and emblematic of his signature splendour and hyper-luxury approach to living.

Each abode is understated but sophisticated, with spectacular vistas setting a postcard-like scene. Soft, earthy tones coat the walls, stylish panelling and furnishings match the natural surroundings, while warm lighting and slick detailing (from discreet plug sockets right next to your bed to a yoga mat in the cupboard for early morning sun salutations) are evidence of some serious pros at work. I should also point out that every room includes plush robes that are long enough for even the tall ones among us (trust me, not often the way), plus the bathrooms are kitted out with a divine selection of Stefano Ricci products and a Dyson hairdryer. As ever, it’s the small touches that make the biggest difference. 

Once pulled away from my room, there was much to see and do. Castelfalfi prides itself on offering more than 40 on-site activities for guests; whether you’re keen to spend your time exploring the estate and learning about its history with a guided tour or are an active adventurer who likes the sound of hiking, tennis, or padel, there’s something for everyone.

Castelfalfi outdoor pool

Castelfalfi wine tour

For me, it was wine and olive oil tasting (the former I perhaps enjoyed a little too much) as well as truffle hunting with the aid of two highly trained (and highly adorable) dogs, who found us plenty of truffles to cater to a flavourful lunch. For those willing to brave the heat inside a protective bright yellow hazmat suit and hat (quite the look), an afternoon spent at the hotel’s apiary is truly incredible, and guests of all ages will delight in spotting the Queen Bee and sampling her honey. 

The estate is also home to hiking trails, fishing lakes and an all-singing, all-dancing adventure park featuring climbing and archery facilities. For little guests, Falfy Kids’ Club provides hours of fun, whether playing games or taking on a traditional Tuscan cooking class. There’s also an outdoor pool for sunbathing and splashing alike.

If it’s some much-needed R&R that you have travelled for, the hotel’s RAKxa Wellness Spa is the perfect tonic. RAKxa, a play on the Vedic term ‘raksha’, means to preserve, cherish, love, and heal in Thai, so it’s only fitting that the space offers somewhere to fully relax and restore a sense of calm and serenity. Designed as a sanctuary, with treatment rooms, saunas, a steam bath, and an indoor-outdoor infinity pool, retreat here to truly slow down. The state-of-the-art gym around the corner, meanwhile, is one of the best hotel gyms I’ve ever stepped foot in, with all the high-spec equipment you could imagine and personal trainers on hand to help you get the most from it. 

This being Italy, food and drink are very important at Castelfalfi, and there are six restaurants and bars across the estate offering seasonal menus orchestrated by executive chef Davide De Simone and using the freshest ingredients, many of which have been produced at Castelfalfi itself. Although each outpost spotlights a different selection of dishes and its own signature style, they all follow the same farm-to-table ethos.

Bar Ecrù & Lounge

The main restaurant, Olivina, opens for a morning buffet breakfast and continues throughout the day with traditional Italian dishes and tastes of the Mediterranean. If it’s not the seabass tartare, veal Milanese, or tomato paccheri pasta that gets you, perhaps it will be the tiramisu, which is constructed right in front of you for a touch of theatre and a big scoop of deliciousness. 

Il Rosamarino is just a short jaunt from the hotel’s reception and takes the form of a rustic trattoria serving up handmade pastas and wood-fired pizzas in an informal, charming setting. For an unforgettable fine dining experience, La Rocca is situated within the medieval castle and offers an intimate setting accompanied by tasting menus that indulge all the senses. Then there’s Bar Ecrù & Lounge with its global menu and exceptional cocktails. A shout out here goes to the Spring in Tuscany serve – fresh and fragrant with a kick of gin and rosemary. 

A picturesque setting, where time stops but wonderful memories take place, Castelfalfi offers a gloriously verdant green estate to meander through and switch off in, while immersing yourself in rich Tuscan history. It doesn’t get much better than this.

Rooms from £510 per night, visit castelfalfi.com. 

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