Meet the chef: Matt Abé of Bonheur
The Gordon Ramsay protégé has finally got his name above the door as he takes over the former Le Gavroche site in Mayfair
Leaving a role after 18 years takes confidence. Opening at the former Le Gavroche site in Mayfair – a restaurant that, until it closed last year, defined modern fine dining in London for more than six decades under the stewardship of the Roux cooking dynasty – takes guts. But if the building’s newest proprietor, acclaimed chef Matt Abé, is phased, you’d never know it.
Describing his new restaurant, he explains: “Bonheur translates to ‘happiness’ in French, so for me, [it’s] a place of escapism. We’re breathing new life into an iconic site, creating a space that is elevated without [being] overwhelming; that is warm, timeless, and comfortable; and that celebrates community, craftsmanship, and the bounty of the British Isles.”
‘New life’, indeed. Bonheur’s opening at the beginning of November marked Abé’s first solo venture after 18 years under the mentorship of Gordon Ramsay including, most recently, a five-year stint as chef patron at the three Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. It’s a place he felt at home, having joined Ramsay at Claridge’s when he was just 22, after transferring from his native Australia. Under his leadership, the restaurant group retained its three Michelin stars for eight consecutive years.
Bonheur is a deeply personal milestone for Abé, who aims to showcase his own culinary style while celebrating one of London’s most iconic dining venues, with the restaurant designed to lean into the building’s lineage instead of working against it. “Taking on such an iconic site is a big responsibility. When we talk about the legacy [of the building], that is the legacy I want to carry on,” says Abé, who no doubt feels the weight of expectation in a kitchen where Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing, and Pierre Koffmann all earned their stripes. “I want to continue the growth and the nurturing of talented, amazing people; give them the skills and confidence they need to go on and achieve their own greatness.”
Inside, however, the space has been completely transformed. Subtle nods to Abé’s Australian roots are woven throughout the interior design, spearheaded by Russell Sage Studio. A palette of cream, cocoa, rust, and ochre nods to the Sunshine Coast, while layered materials – think rare horsehair wallpaper, deep burgundy velvet banquettes and butter-soft yellow leather tabletops – offer something more tactile.
Menus, meanwhile, feature classically-rooted cuisine with a contemporary touch. On a mission to cater to all discerning diners, Bonheur serves an approachable á la carte offering, carefully curated tasting menus, and for a more intimate experience, hosts a chef’s table named Petit Bonheur: a six-seat, front-row experience demonstrating Abé’s philosophy of open, collaborative cooking.
Now, at the helm of one of London’s most exciting new restaurants, we sit down with Abé to discuss venturing out on his own, the pressure that comes with legacy – and whether he’s after stars of his own.
I grew up in Sydney, Australia, in a family that loved food and entertaining. I was very inquisitive growing up, especially around food, and my parents encouraged me to try different ingredients and cuisines, embracing the multiculturalism shared throughout Australia.
When my mum asked me what I wanted to do, I’d alternate between being in the military and being a chef. It was the routine, the discipline and the dedication that appealed. Once I’d done a week’s work experience in a kitchen, at age 16, I knew that’s what I wanted to do. I loved it. The pace, the environment of working together, and of course, being around food. By the Friday of that week the head chef asked, ‘Are you going to do this properly?’ and I said, ‘I’d love to – what do I need to do?’
One of my earliest vivid memories is standing beside the barbecue at home in Sydney, helping my parents cook and entertain friends. I learnt the idea of hospitality growing up – the enjoyment of hosting and bringing people together is really important to me.
My most formative training period was an apprenticeship at Aria in Sydney, under the mentorship of an amazing chef, Matt Moran. I spent around four and a half years there. At 19, I moved to Melbourne to join Vue de Monde. After two years there, I realised I needed the next challenge overseas and Europe was where I wanted to be.
After working at Aria and Vue de Monde, at the age of 22, I moved to London to join Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s. That was a massive step for me, arriving in London, in a kitchen of that calibre, and making the commitment to perform. Within about 10 months I was promoted to junior sous chef at Claridge’s. From there I requested a transfer to the flagship Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea (which has held three Michelin stars since 2001). I accepted a step-back role to join the team there, and then within another 10 months, I made my way back up to sous chef.
Working at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay has been one of the most intense, rewarding, exhilarating experiences of my life. The pressure is immense, of course, but I thrive on pressure. Each service is different, each day presents new challenges, new produce, and new techniques. The expectation is incredibly high, and so you learn to move quickly, to think ahead, and to care about the most minute details.
When I took over leadership in 2020 that responsibility grew – leading a team, owning the vision, maintaining three stars, and knowing what kind of experience the guests expect. That progression meant I had to grow not just as a cook but as a leader.
After years building up within that world, learning and refining, I wanted to step out and create something of my own, bring my own vision and personality to the fore – and now felt like the right time for me to do that. The foundation and mentorship have been extraordinary, so now it’s about moving into the next chapter and charting my own voice.
The concept has been years in the making, and the name has been a journey of three years in itself. I’ve always loved the French language and the way certain words carry an emotion or atmosphere that’s hard to translate. The French influence is such a big part of my career and background, and Bonheur, meaning ‘happiness’, really captured what I wanted the restaurant to stand for. For me, it’s about what a restaurant represents: a place of joy, connection, and shared experience – for the guests, the team, and the wider community.
I’m classically trained, so the food is rooted in French technique, but I’ve also been influenced by Asian flavours throughout my career. You’ll see those subtle nods woven through the menu in a balanced way. Guests can choose from an à la carte menu or two tasting menus: Journey (five courses) and Dream (seven courses), which is the ultimate Bonheur experience. It was important for me to include a la carte to offer flexibility for guests, whether it’s a business lunch or people are just a little poor of time, they can still come in and have an incredible experience. It’s also a nice starting point for people to then come back and try one of the tasting menus for a different experience.
There’s always a sense of expectation when you move between kitchens with that kind of history. But for me, it’s not about chasing stars, it’s about building something meaningful over time. As Gordon has always said, these things take time, and that’s what makes them special. My focus is on creating an experience that guests enjoy and remember. The vision is there, but it’s about taking the time to get it right and staying true to what we believe in as a team.
I will always tell people to go to Trinity in Clapham. I love the food that Adam [Byatt] and Harry [Kirkpatrick] are cooking over there. It’s classically rooted with modern interpretation, with a no frills, no fuss approach.
We are so lucky in London with so many incredible restaurants and chefs doing brilliant things. To name a few, Macro Zampese, head chef at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught – I love his style of cuisine. Brett Graham over at The Ledbury, and his approach to sourcing ingredients. Clare Smyth, my friend and mentor of many years is always a pillar of excellence, and finally, Andrew Wong. I love his creativity and approach to Chinese cuisine.
When I’m not in the kitchen I like to disconnect. Spending time with family and friends, exploring new places, getting in the great outdoors – whether or not that’s my Australian heritage speaking! I still love to cook at home, try new recipes, and mess around with produce. Of course, eating out, trying new restaurants and visiting old favourites.
One dish I’m really excited for guests to try is the 125-day aged Cumbrian blue grey sirloin. It’s been exclusively sourced and aged for Bonheur by Lake District Farmers. We’ve worked together for years to perfect it. It’s served with a potato terrine, smoked bone marrow, and a classic Bordelaise sauce. It represents everything Bonheur stands for: provenance, technique, flavour, and a dish that speaks of craft and comfort at the same time.
Visit bonheurbymattabe.com
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