When Chelsea’s The Butcher’s Tap and Grill closed its doors at the beginning of June after only 18 months in action, few expected a second act that was bigger and better than this popular upscale neighbourhood pub. But, after a quick rejig of the interiors, a brand new menu and a whole different vibe, The Chalk Freehouse, a charming boozer-meets-bistro just off the King’s Road, is proving to be quite the hit with locals and out-of-towners alike. 

The latest instalment from the Tom Kerridge Group, The Chalk (the name nodding to Chelsea’s past as an unloading point for the stone), is helmed by acclaimed chef Tom De Keyser, previously head chef at the two Michelin-starred The Hand and Flowers in Marlow (the first pub in the world to be awarded such an accolade). Having worked alongside Tom Kerridge for more than 12 years, this is an exciting new venture for De Keyser – and his first solo project. 

Commenting on De Keyser’s overhaul, Kerridge says: “He’s worked really hard on this new concept, creating some absolutely standout dishes, and I know with the help of our incredibly loyal team he’ll do brilliantly in bringing it to life. It’s great to see Tom opening his first standalone site – it’s a true celebration of all the hard work and dedication he’s put into his career so far.”

Housed in a two-storey Victorian property, out front there are streetside seats for sipping sundowners and al fresco snacking (are you in Chelsea or a chic Parisian bar?), but step inside and you’ll be very much reminded of your whereabouts. In the model of Kerridge’s most successful ventures, this is a traditional British gastropub, with that cosy home-away-from-home feel, just with a bit more refinement and a lot more elegance than your old man’s drinking den.  

Following a light but impactful refurbishment of the former Butcher’s Tap, soft lighting, colourful contemporary artwork, and inviting leather booths fill the 60-cover dining area, alongside a smart custom-built hardwood bar where cocktails are shaken and stirred, adding some musicality to the space. 

The thing that has really changed here, though, is the food. The menu has been completely revamped and finessed. Gone are the steaks and chops of its predecessor, replaced by a sophisticated take on comforting classics with a distinctly Mediterranean inflection. Burgers are eschewed in favour of a ‘nduja and smoked mozzarella sausage roll or a main of long pepper spiced beef brisket with pickled beetroot. That long-time gastropub favourite, pâté, here comes as a ‘churned to order’ parfait. See what I mean?

The Chalk offers an a la carte menu, with a set lunch option and, on Sundays, a traditional roast with all the trimmings. On the whole, the menu is less meaty than its predecessor, with more options for pescatarians and vegetarians (the latter less so if we’re being completely honest, but it’s still worth a trip for the vibe – fill up on snacks and pudding instead). 

After nibbles of olives, a cheese and onion scone with whipped mustard and herb butter and the aforementioned sausage roll (which, with true Kerridge generosity, may be listed as a snack but would definitely have passed the Covid ‘substantial meal’ test), my guest and I move on to starters. The Cornish crab with potato salad and signature chicken and duck liver parfait were recommended as firm favourites among both staff and diners, so who were we to argue? Trust me, the fuss is warranted. 

Mains concentrate on the best produce from land and sea. Curry roasted baby chicken with braised butter beans and preserved lemon and, on the other side of the table, the fish of the day (ray wing) with crispy cockles and (I’m told) a delicious anchovy and garlic dressing were beautifully presented and light yet indulgent. Sides of buttery mash, creamed spinach and fresh salad leaves may have proved unnecessary when it came to appetite but were gratefully received by tastebuds. Other standouts according to the attentive and knowledgeable staff: the pork chop schnitzel with smoked bacon cabbage and a fried duck egg, and confit duck leg with braised lentils.

As full as we were, we decided it would be rude not to sample the desserts, especially given the menu suggests some serious thought and pastry know-how may lie behind them. A chocolate tart with smoked sea salt took centre stage for its utter decadence. It really did melt in the mouth, as cliché as that may sound. Perfect for the British summertime, the brown sugar pavlova with strawberries featured an unusual touch of cabernet sauvignon vinegar that added a sharpness to the fruity, seasonal palate. To wash it down, the wine list at The Chalk has been carefully put together by Gavin Hills, also sommelier at The Hand and Flowers, bringing a wide selection of elegant bottles, alongside craft ales and cocktails.  

A brisk walk away from Sloane Square station, The Chalk, or rather that of its proprietor, may precede it – but it stands up to the hype. The Chalk Freehouse has taken the classic pub to a new level, and I’m certainly going back for more. See you there.

Visit thechalkfreehouse.co.uk

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