It’s safe to say that department stores haven’t always been synonymous with fine dining. Instead, they were places you’d be expected to refuel with coffee and cake – maybe a cheese toastie if you’re lucky – and then resume your shopping spree. That was until storied addresses such as Fortnum & Mason and Harrods, and more modern, forward-thinking stores like Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, changed the game, installing their own all-singing, all-dancing food halls and destination dining outlets catering to every cuisine under the sun. 

Naturally, then, Liberty London felt a little left out. The Grade II-listed department store fringing Regent Street is one of the most historic and prestigious luxury addresses in the capital, having built a reputation for offering timeless style spanning interiors, fashion and beauty. Food? Not so much. 

It first opened Café Liberty in 2011, before that was overhauled to become Arthur’s in 2017. A tribute to Liberty’s founder, Arthur Lasenby Liberty, it paid homage to the store’s Arts and Crafts roots via its interiors but still retained a casual feel; somewhere to enjoy scones and tea that traded on Liberty’s thoroughly British reputation. Not, however, a foodie destination. 

2025 is a big year for Liberty as it marks its 150^th anniversary – and there’s nothing like a milestone to trigger change. This meant waving goodbye to Arthur’s and ushering in a new era in the form of Seventy Five, which opened last month to offer destination dining with a local neighbourhood feel. The name nods to Liberty’s founding year of 1875, but the concept is inherently modern; sharing small plates and innovative cocktails to match, and ultimately a place to gather and linger a little longer. 

It certainly feels like guests have got the memo when I enter at 6pm on a Thursday evening. To my left, a couple have clearly come straight from the office for a mid-week date night, while a young family sits in the opposite corner and a group of friends to my right snap pictures of their cocktails. 

Inside, the interiors feel distinctly Liberty-esque. Bold floral prints and vintage velvet in a warm colour palette of burgundy and pink are complemented with green panelling and accents. Look closely at the wall panels and you’ll spot chinoiserie motifs and Persian Garden illustrations – an archival Liberty design from 1964, inspired by the rolling hills and rich textures of the countryside. 

It wouldn’t be a Liberty restaurant without art and Seventy Five promises an ongoing Artist in Residence series, offering guests the chance to purchase the rotating prints and paintings on display. This month, it plays host to a curated collection by renowned cartoonist, illustrator and writer, Sir Quentin Saxby Blake – famous for his work with Roald Dahl – who brings his signature playful and colourful touch to the four walls while seamlessly adding to the warm, friendly ambience. 

Chef Joe Holness

While the interiors and art certainly feeds into Seventy Five’s appeal, the food has to do the talking. It's the first standalone restaurant from Berkshire-based luxury catering specialists Goose + Berry, whose clientele includes Henley Royal Regatta and Soho House. Head chef Joe Holness – formerly of Da Terra and Fera at Claridge’s – was tasked with reimagining the concept, swapping scones and clotted cream for an array of sharing-style dishes that celebrate British seasonal produce and prepared in an open kitchen. 

Offering three distinct food menus – traditionalists will be pleased to learn that afternoon tea does remain a staple, starring savouries such as wild mushroom and truffle vol-au-vent and sweets like lemon tart with Italian meringue and lime – days at Seventy Five start with a sophisticated brunch. An ideal spot for client meetings or slow starts to days out in Soho, expect Burford Brown scrambled eggs on toasted brioche with summer truffle and sautéed wild mushrooms topped with fresh herbs. 

I am here to try the all-day dining menu – the key offering that has shifted Liberty’s dining outlet from bog-standard café to sophisticated restaurant. Despite having been divided into snacks, starters, mains, sides and desserts, the idea of the menu is to order whatever takes your fancy and share. I start with a light, fluffy focaccia doused in whipped Marmite butter – I’m actually not a fan of Marmite, but this smooth spread adds a hint of umami that could convert me – and seasonal Wye Valley asparagus served with plenty of salty watercress puree and smoky egg yolk. I’d also recommend the pork cheek drizzled in sweet Kentish apple cider, perfectly paired with thin apple crisps, chunky celeriac, and topped with sage. It sounds like a lot of food (and be aware that portions are generous) but it’s not overwhelming, especially when shared with at least one other person – diners are recommended five-eight plates depending on their appetite (PSA: I was ravenous). 

Onto the larger plates, then. Pick from Hampshire pork chop with salsa verde, brown butter chicken supreme, hake in mussel sauce and the lighter gut-health-haven of glazed hispi cabbage with plenty of leafy greens, such as cavolo nero and radicchio, topped with sunflower seeds. There’s plenty to tempt any discerning diner, but the Norfolk sirloin steak – sliced and cooked slightly pink, just how I like it – served in a garlic, thyme and beef sauce was a real highlight. It’s the most expensive dish on the menu, clocking in at £36, but  could easily be shared between three. Pair with crispy purple sprouting broccoli in hazelnut cream – a great flavour combination on its own – and the smoked potato puree (it’s so smooth that even I won’t concede and call it mash) topped with crispy shallots. 

Gnocchi with wild mushrooms

Another star dish which, according to our waiter, has immediately become one of the most popular, is the handmade gnocchi with a wild rocket pesto-style sauce. Simple but extremely effective, the pillowy potato is complemented by wild mushrooms and pickled shimeji adding to its soft texture, contrasted by crunchy walnuts and a touch of pecorino. Delicious. I could have had an entire plate to myself. 

Admittedly, my appetite had been fully satiated by the time I scoop up the final morsels of the smoked potato puree (it would have been rude not to), but the dessert menu is not to be sniffed at. After a sell-out run at lunch, only the poached pear frangipane tart and milk chocolate mousse are available – and I’m not disappointed when I order the latter. This smooth, indulgent pud topped with sweet in-season cherries will delight anyone’s inner child. 

The kitchen is open until 8pm (when Liberty closes) but last orders are at 6.45pm, so it’s important to bear in mind this isn’t a late-night hangout. Given its prime position opposite the London Palladium, one imagines the pre-theatre crowd will be more than enough to keep its tables full. And don’t let the early closing time deter you from sampling the innovative cocktails. One of the key ingredients to Seventy Five’s success is transforming it into a social spot, helped by an Instagrammable cocktail list tactfully taking its cues from Liberty’s LBTY fragrance collection. 

Creations are named after specific scents you can buy in store; take, for example, the Adelphi Sun, which blends jasmine with fresh and zesty grapefruit, and the purple-hued Ianthe Oud, balancing Tanqueray gin with Italicus and bergamot to recreate the flavours of a parma violet. Artfully presented and delicious, my favourite was the effervescent Liberty Maze: the scent has bright citrus notes, jasmine and honeysuckle on the nose, while the tipple features prosecco, lemon and jasmine on the palette. All I can say is hats off to the marketing team for that one.  

As I roll out of Liberty’s doors at 8pm, alongside a flurry of late-night shoppers spilling onto the streets of Soho, I feel surprisingly smug. As one of the first to try the new restaurant, I’m sure this is going to become a popular foodie destination, catering not only to shoppers but also those after a sophisticated yet unpretentious dinner after work, before the theatre and in between errands. Don’t mistake this for fine dining, but it is a fine restaurant offering even finer food that’s ready to rival other department stores in the city. Welcome to the stiff competition, Liberty – I think you have a good chance of winning. 

Visit 75atliberty.com

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