tong chee hwee gouqi

Meet the chef: Tong Chee Hwee of Gouqi

02 Aug 2024 | Updated on: 17 Sep 2024 | By Annie Lewis

Having cut his teeth at one of the best Chinese restaurants in the capital, chef Tong Chee Hwee has now entered a new era at Gouqi

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Gouqi

There are two types of Chinese restaurants in London: the speedy, noodle-frying pit stops found in Chinatown (obviously), Soho and Queensway, and then the more lavish Shanghai-inspired interior design masterpieces and Michelin-starred affairs on a mission to redefine their native country’s cuisine. And, when chef Tong Chee Hwee arrived in London in 2001, he had been called upon to kickstart the latter. 

Back then London’s culinary scene was a very different place to what it is today, and when Hwee was tasked with opening Hakkasan Hanway Place – one of the most acclaimed Chinese fine dining restaurants in the country, let alone the capital – there was little in the way of competition. You’d be forgiven for thinking, then, that Hwee had a rather easy job on his hands but, in fact, the opposite was true. With most Brits having only encountered the MSG-laden, sticky orange Anglo-Cantonese dishes of their local takeaway, he had to redefine the way Londoners viewed Chinese cuisine, and elevate it to a level worthy of a Michelin star. Naturally, Hwee took to this task like a duck to water. 

After 19 years as head chef at Hakkasan – which saw him earn the restaurant the Michelin star it has retained ever since, alongside two AA rosettes, as well as open sister establishments HKK in Shoreditch and Yauatcha in Soho – Hwee was looking for a new challenge. And in 2023, he found exactly what he was looking for in the form of Gouqi. 

Set in historic St James’s, Gouqi – pronounced ‘goji’ as a play on the name of the berry, which is a symbol of health and vitality, as well as referencing the eponymous island in the East China Sea, famed for its picturesque fishing villages – is easily one of the most exciting new restaurants on the capital’s Chinese fine dining scene. Book a table to discover refined low-lit interiors featuring artwork from six award-winning artists and flower arrangements by Botanique Workshop. On the menu, however, is where Hwee’s culinary expertise comes to life. Combining flavours, techniques and ingredients from across China, highlights include the live seafood menu, featuring Norwegian king crab, Canadian crab and Gillardeau oysters, while the barbecued dishes feature Peking duck with Oscietra caviar carved table side and a standout steamed royal dim sum platter. 

Ready to tuck in? We sit down with Hwee to discuss career changes, the journey through Asia which inspired the creation of Gouqi, and whether there’s another Michelin star on the horizon. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

My aspiration to become a chef began at the age of 10. This was deeply influenced by my grandma, who hails from Hakka descent. She imparted her culinary expertise to my mother, who in turn passed down this rich heritage to me. The tradition of sharing cooking skills within my family has played a huge role in shaping my passion for the craft and ultimately led me to pursue a career in the culinary arts.

What’s your earliest food memory?

During my childhood, my family farmed animals and prepared home-cooked meals using fresh produce. Among my favourite dishes was a roasted duck paired with a fried duck egg, served with plain white rice. Despite the absence of gas cookers at that time, the barbecue-style cooking method used by my family really enhanced the flavours of these dishes, and I carry those memories with me to this day. The simplicity of the ingredients combined with the unique cooking technique was the recipe for a lasting impression.

When did you start your career as a chef?

Guided by my mentor, chef Chin Hon Yin, I travelled Asia for 14 years, honing my culinary skills and techniques. Through this, I learnt that cooking is a lifestyle, and each dish should be crafted with ardour to provide guests with the best possible dining experience. It calls for a work ethic of integrity, initiative, and a deep appreciation for every aspect of cooking.

In 1982, I made a significant move from Ipoh, Malaysia, to Singapore, to pursue my culinary journey. My professional journey started as a commis chef at Happy Valley. Subsequently, in 1989, I transitioned to the Carlton Hotel, advanced to the position of sous chef at Sheraton Towers, assumed the role of senior sous chef at Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel in 1995, and finally reached the prestigious position of chef de cuisine at the renowned five-star Ritz Carlton Hotel in Singapore in 1996.

gouqi
Image: Lateef Photography
What drew you to London? Was it tough to move halfway across the world?

Alan Yau interviewed around 60-70 head chefs, and I felt very lucky that he chose me to be the group executive chef of Hakkasan in 2001. He trialled my cooking three or four times and he recognised my potential and consistency. I am very grateful that he believed in my ability and that we shared the same vision and work ethic.

I was not familiar with the Western culture or prepared for the cold winter seasons. It took me four to six months to settle down in London. My main challenges were my lack of contacts when I first arrived, and the language barrier – however, I was very lucky to have a lot of support around me and I was motivated by the new challenge when I moved here.

Within a year of opening, Hakkasan was awarded a Michelin star – the first Chinese restaurant in the UK to do so. How did that feel?

It was one of the biggest accomplishments in my professional career. I was very proud that the hard work and passion of the team had been appreciated by a different culture and it led to the expansion of Hakkasan Group in London (Hakkasan Mayfair, Yauatcha Soho and City, and HKK) and then globally. One day I came to work as normal, and there were a lot of photographers in the kitchen. I was initially confused as nobody informed me that we had achieved this award. At the time, the Michelin Guide had not yet launched in Singapore or Hong Kong so I didn’t expect this to happen. I feel very grateful and humbled. The key was the team behind the scenes working consistently hard to deliver high standards.

Having spent so much of your career at Hakkasan, what drew you to Gouqi?

My culinary career took an exciting turn between 2019 and 2022 when I headed on a journey across Asia. It was during this time that I discovered the enchanting beauty of Gouqi Island, the second largest island in Shengsi County, Zhoushan City. Picturesque, it not only boasted lush fields of goji berries, but also housed one of the most well-preserved fishing villages in the region.

Captivated by the serene landscapes and the vibrant culture of the island, I found myself deeply inspired by the essence of this place. It was here that the idea for the restaurant took root, with the name itself drawing from the humble goji berry. Symbolising health and vitality, the goji berry became a powerful emblem that captured the ethos and philosophy of the restaurant I wanted to open.

The journey through Asia and the discovery of Gouqi Island was a transformative experience, shaping the vision and direction of the restaurant. With a deep-rooted connection to the land and a commitment to honouring the traditions of the region, the restaurant stands as a testament to the beauty of Gouqi Island.

What's been your favourite thing about opening Gouqi?

Practising all the lessons I’ve learned throughout my career: that cooking is a way of life, and that you need to work with integrity and initiative. I’m also very proud of my kitchen team and their development has been one of my favourite things to witness.

Are you hoping to bring something different to London's Chinese fine dining scene with Gouqi?

Gouqi stays ahead in terms of innovation by embracing the evolving landscape of global cuisine and continuously seeking inspiration from diverse culinary traditions. Our commitment to innovation is reflected in our dedication to sourcing high-quality ingredients, experimenting with new flavour combinations, and pushing the boundaries of traditional techniques.

Are you aiming for a Michelin star at Gouqi, or are you taking a different approach to this restaurant?

Looking back at my career, achieving the first Michelin star in 2003 was perhaps the most humbling moment of all. This represented a genuine breakthrough for contemporary Chinese cuisine on the international stage and we were later recognised at several more restaurants in the group. Emulating that at Gouqi, my own restaurant, would be something really special for our team. At the same time, that achievement is not an end in itself.

Our reason for being is to create exceptional and unforgettable dining experiences. By curating innovative dishes, sourcing the highest quality ingredients, meticulously preparing them, and delivering impeccable service, we aim to take Gouqi to the very top of London’s dining scene.

What is your one other favourite London restaurant?

Nangyang Blossom in Knightsbridge.

Are there any other London chefs you're impressed with at the moment?

Chef Darren Liew. 

What's your favourite dish on the menu and why?

The legendary Peking duck with Oscietra caviar, which is served three ways and carved tableside. 

How would you spend an ideal day off in London?

Walking my cockapoo in the park with a nice cup of coffee.

Visit gouqi-restaurants.co.uk