simon rogan

Meet the chef: Simon Rogan of L’Enclume and Aulis

04 Jun 2025 | | By Annie Lewis

We sit down with the lauded chef to discuss pioneering a culinary revolution and bringing his signature flare to Royal Ascot

When Simon Rogan started his culinary career in the 1990s, the words ‘farm-to-fork’ were rarely used in the same sentence, let alone to describe an entire restaurant ethos. Yet Rogan is now deemed the pioneer of this approach; the chef who coined the term. After all, he’s the one who made this idea become a reality when he opened his first restaurant in 2002 in a leafy but untouched corner of the Lake District. Remote? Certainly, but L’Enclume’s premise of sourcing local, wild food and transforming it into fine dining fare has seen it become one of the UK’s most celebrated restaurants, earning its first Michelin star three years after opening and its third in 2022. 

Rogan’s celebration of England’s flora and fauna – with a little help from L’Enclume’s 21-course tasting menu and nine-month waiting list – quickly earned him renown, with the 2015 Good Food Guide describing his food as “miracles of nature”. His hard work in the kitchen paved the way for his second act, Aulis (now with three outposts, one a stone’s throw from L’Enclume, another in Soho and most recently Phuket), and residencies at luxury hotels such as Iniala Harbour House hotel in Malta and social season events, including Royal Ascot

Returning for his seventh year among a line up of chefs including Raymond Blanc, Lisa Goodwin-Allen and Tom Booton, whose collective 29 Michelin stars make it the most prestigious culinary gathering at any sporting event in the world, Rogan will be bringing his signature farm-to-fork ethos to the Parade Ring Restaurant at Royal Ascot this year. With nine stars to his name (Rogan added two more to his name for Aulis London and Ion Harbour in Malta in 2024), his menu will offer guests a five-course à la carte lunch in a floral, formal, regal setting.

Dividing his time between the Lake District, London and beyond, we grab a rare five minutes with Rogan to discuss staying true to his culinary ethos, his advice to young chefs and why he knew a remote location in the Cumbrian countryside was the perfect place for Michelin-starred success. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

I was also interested in food, in particular produce because my father sold fruit and veg, but I wouldn’t say it was something I knew intrinsically that I wanted to do. I slowly made my way into it but very quickly learnt it was the path I wanted to pursue.

What's your earliest food memory?

Every other Saturday afternoon, my family would get together for a huge buffet at my Gran’s house. It was a huge spread, lots of goodies and the item I used to look forward to the most was my Nan’s bread pudding. It was absolutely delicious.

Where did you work during the early years of your career?

I began my career working part-time at a Greek restaurant in Southampton and, following this, I trained as an apprentice at Rhinefield House Hotel in Hampshire. I then moved to work at Geddes restaurant in Southampton under Jean Christophe Novelli, before stints working for Marco Pierre White and John Burton-Race. I moved to Paris in the Nineties where I worked under chef Alain Sederens at the Lucas Carton – a defining period of my career.

What drew you to the Lake District when opening L’Enclume?

It was fortuitous that I came across the building which became L’Enclume – I was looking for somewhere remote to open a restaurant and a friend of mine let me know about this former blacksmith’s workshop in a small, very quiet village called Cartmel. I was based in the South of England at that time but travelled several hundred miles to see it. I instantly knew it was where I wanted to set up my first restaurant.

What influences your menus at L'Enclume?

My menus are inspired by the natural surroundings, the beautiful terrain, colours and climate of the Lake District and what we are able to grow there on our very own farm, which we’ve called Our Farm, located a few miles from the restaurant.

How does the dining experience at Aulis differ?

At Aulis, diners will experience a tasting menu not too dissimilar to what is served at L’Enclume – it’s very much within our signature style and utilises the ingredients from Our Farm but with a few variations for the London audience. Aulis in Soho is overseen by head chef Charlie Tayler. Guests sit at a 12-seater chef’s table and, if they wish, they can really enjoy close interaction with the team throughout the whole meal, watching them while they work because much of it is prepared and cooked directly in front of the guests. It’s a really special experience.

Are there any other London chefs you're impressed with at the moment?

I am travelling quite a bit at the moment so when I’m in the UK I need to focus a lot on my own restaurants so unfortunately, I don’t eat out that much at all. However, I dined at Claude Bosi’s Josephine in Chelsea at the end of last year and that was fantastic.

What's your advice for chefs working towards Michelin-star status?

Being recognised by Michelin over the course of my career is never something I have taken for granted and it’s a huge honour to have achieved this. However, the main advice I can give any chef is not to allow the striving towards stars to dictate your entire working life. Winning stars cannot be the main deciding factor for happiness, nor the only inspiration for the team.

Work hard, stay consistent, consider every detail of the restaurant operation from the sourcing of ingredients, to ensuring the team is properly looked after, and be willing to learn and improve – those are the foundations for a successful hospitality operation. The accolades will hopefully follow. We are constantly pushing, working to improve and we never rest on our laurels – that’s the most important thing.

Tell us more about your restaurant at Ascot. What guests can expect from your food there?

We’re offering a taste of the Lake District at Royal Ascot, through a one-off five-course menu which draws on our signature style and incorporates various elements of the dishes you can find in our restaurants around the UK. Although we wanted to create a relaxed and informal experience, the menu brings a sense of occasion while incorporating the ingredients at their absolute prime, not to mention incredible views of the Parade Ring.

Visit simonrogan.co.uk

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