Meet the chef: Sally Abé of The Pem
One of the most talented and respected culinary innovators in London, Sally Abé talks cutting her teeth in Michelin-starred kitchens and why she wants to bolster female chefs
It’s no understatement to say Sally Abé is one of the most decorated chefs in the capital. Having bagged some of the most highly-respected awards in the industry, ranging from numerous accolades at the National Restaurant Awards to being named Female Chef of the Year at the SquareMeal Awards, Abé’s innovative approach to not only fine dining, but mentoring women in the kitchen is wholly refreshing. But don’t expect an doe-eyed stories about growing up in the kitchen with her grandmother: Abé’s achievements have come because she’s well aware that cutting your teeth in male-dominated, high-pressure environments is tough.
Born in Mansfield, she recalls being at a “crossroads” when she finished university, which led her to enrol on a hospitality course. In fact, her lifelong dream was to become a broadcast journalist – which, in a sense, has come true given she’s now a regular on Saturday Kitchen Live and James Martin’s Saturday Morning, as well as having reached the banquet on Great British Menu 2022.
After honing her skills in a restaurant in Sheffield, Abé decided to push herself out of her comfort zone by joining Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s. From there, she spent time at the multi-Michelin-starred The Ledbury under Brett Graham, and Phil Elystan’s two-starred The Square, where, she admits, her previous sense of ease in the kitchen evaporated under the pressure that seems to be part-and-parcel of high-end kitchens. “Beyond food, the experience taught me discipline,” she says. “Both in terms of technique and the sheer hard work required to consistently deliver.”
Having spent years in intense kitchens, Abé swapped cheffing for a stint of recipe writing. She says it was a much-needed break, but could only keep her away from the restaurant scene for 18 months before she was invited to lead The Harwood Arms – London’s only Michelin-starred gastropub – which is co-owned by Graham. At the helm for the first time, Abé built steadily on the pub’s starry reputation until she was offered a job she simply couldn’t turn down: her very own restaurant at one of London’s five-star hotels.
Named The Pem after suffragette Emily Wilding Davison, Abé funnelled every ounce of passion and expertise into the restaurant at Conrad St James’s. With a female-led team and an environment that’s a far cry from the loud, stressful kitchens found elsewhere, Abé has curated the environment she would’ve loved to work in as a young chef.
Book the six-course tasting menu, Taste of The Pem, to sample Abe’s signature style that puts a modern twist on old-school classics. Think tomato consommé with wild Scottish cherries and Welsh seaweed, 45 day-aged saddleback pork chop with wild apricot and coco beans, and lemon meringue with yoghurt sorbet. We sit down to discuss leading her own kitchen, why she wants to bolster women at work, and what she would tell her younger self.
Growing up, I actually had a completely different dream – I wanted to be a presenter on the BBC Radio 1 breakfast show! I was really into English at school and absolutely loved to read and write, so journalism seemed like the natural path for me. At that time, I loved the idea of telling stories and sharing information in an exciting way, which is why broadcasting appealed to me. Of course, life has a funny way of leading you down unexpected paths, and somehow, I ended up being a chef but this career allows me to express my creativity in a different way.
A late-night baking session with my mum when I was around six or seven years old. We decided to make croissants one evening, but what we didn’t realise was just how long they take to prepare properly. I ended up staying awake until 9pm, which, at that age, was way past my bedtime. It felt like such a treat at the time – both making the croissants and getting to stay up late with my mum.
I essentially began working as a chef when I moved to London at 20. At that point, I was halfway through a degree in hospitality business management, but I was at a crossroads. I didn’t have a clear idea of what I wanted to do after graduating. That changed when I set foot in a kitchen for the first time. The energy and the pace completely captivated me. From that moment, I knew this was where I was meant to be.
I spent two years at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, where I started as a commis chef. That’s really where I laid the foundations of my career. I learned so much about the technical aspects of cooking, but even more importantly, I gained an understanding of what it takes to operate at a fine dining level. The attention to detail, the precision, and the discipline required were like nothing I’d experienced before. It was an intense but invaluable training ground, and it’s where I cut my teeth, so to speak, in the world of high-end cuisine.
Images: Tim Green
Working at The Ledbury was an incredible experience that shaped my approach to both food and kitchen management. Under Brett Graham’s guidance, I learned so much about flavour and the art of combining ingredients in unexpected ways. The Ledbury’s focus on using the very best produce available in the country really influenced how I think about sourcing ingredients and working with the seasons.
Opening The Pem was a deeply personal project for me. The name ‘Pem’ comes from Emily Wilding Davison, one of the most prominent suffragettes, who was affectionately known as Pem. I’ve always found her story inspiring, and it was important to me to celebrate strong, trailblazing women. The restaurant is, in a way, a tribute to all the strong women who have influenced my life and career.
It was crucial for me to create a kitchen where women felt empowered and supported, because when I was coming up through the ranks, female chefs were often the minority in kitchens. I want to ensure that the next generation of female chefs knows there are positive, inclusive working environments available to them. By having a kitchen with a strong female presence, I hope to show that diversity in leadership is possible and important.
It has been challenging at times but, for the most part, as a younger chef I just got on with it and tried not to see myself as any different from the men.
My advice would be to absolutely go for it, but make sure you find a kitchen that feels right for you. It’s so important to work in an environment where you feel comfortable, respected, and valued for your contributions. The right kitchen will nurture your talent and help you grow. Confidence is key in this industry, and it’s important to know that you deserve to be in any kitchen you’re passionate about.
Seasonality plays a huge role. We’re deeply committed to using British produce and working with the best ingredients the changing seasons have to offer. I also draw a lot of inspiration from nostalgic memories of food, including dishes I grew up eating or recipes I’ve discovered in old British cookbooks. I love reimagining those traditional flavours in a way that feels fresh and modern. It’s about respecting the past but also pushing forward to create something new and exciting.
That’s such a hard question because London has so many amazing places, but if I had to choose one, it would be Trinity. I find myself going back there again and again because Adam Byatt’s cooking is just so meticulously executed. Every dish is refined and thoughtful, and continues to evolve and get better each time I visit.
There are so many exciting chefs in London right now, but I really love the cooking of Dara Klein from Tiella. Her cooking is so honest, and it’s clear that she has a deep understanding of flavours. What I love most is that her dishes are big on flavour, yet there’s a simplicity to them that feels unpretentious.
When I’m not in the kitchen, I love eating out at other restaurants. There’s so much to learn from seeing how other chefs approach food, and it keeps me inspired. Aside from that, I’m a huge fan of vintage and flea markets. I really enjoy finding unique pieces and hidden gems.
The Herdwick lamb and cockles. It’s a celebration of Welsh ingredients, and what I love most about it is the way the different flavours play off each other. The richness of the lamb pairs beautifully with the salty contrast of the cockles, and we incorporate different types of seaweed to really bring out those coastal notes. It’s a dish that feels both comforting and sophisticated, and it’s one that I’m particularly proud of.
Visit thepemrestaurant.com
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