Meet the chef: Michael Turner of Willett’s
The new head chef of London’s only Belmond property on the opening of his very British bistro
Every month sees a flurry of new restaurants opening in London, with each one adding more competition to an already crowded dining scene. For us, the consumers and foodies, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to trying something new. For the chefs in the kitchens though, stiff competition only adds more pressure.
Despite that, when I meet Michael Turner, the recently appointed executive chef of Willett’s, a new bistro at The Cadogan hotel, he seems calm and confident. “Our ambition is to create a true neighbourhood bistro […] focusing on well-loved classics and seasonal ingredients, with the aim of building a restaurant residents return to regularly. Being in Chelsea, it’s important that Willett’s feels part of the area – a place for weekday suppers, long Sunday lunches and everything in between.”
Willett’s – named for the family who built the 1887 Chelsea townhouse which is now The Cadogan – opened earlier this month to replace the former LaLee restaurant, which was inspired by 19th-century socialite Lillie Langtry and served European classics reminiscent of her travels. Less gimmicky than its predecessor, Willett’s hooks are simple: it is a new project from London’s only Belmond hotel, a group which is synonymous with fine fare; it is making a bid to create unfussy British food in a high-end setting; and it is being led by one of the capital’s most esteemed chefs.
Having cut his teeth in kitchens from the age of 17, Turner arrives at Willett’s following a 13-year stint with the Gordon Ramsay Group, most notably as executive head chef at The Savoy Grill and The River Restaurant. In Chelsea, he presents his take on the British bistro, offering classical cooking shaped by the seasons and strong relationships with UK producers.
As a result, the menu brings together time honoured dishes and regional references. Case in point are the signature sourdough crumpets, which are fried daily for a crispy outside and fluffy centre. Served across breakfast, lunch, dinner, the bar and late-night offerings, with toppings ranging from mushroom parfait with Wiltshire truffle to cep parfait with a poached St Ewes egg and hollandaise depending on the time of day. Other highlights include hand-chopped ex-dairy beef with mushroom ketchup, pickles and crisps, prawn cocktail with Bloody Mary jelly, and Sutton Hoo chicken and morel pie with mash and liquor. We sit down with Turner to find out more.
I didn’t always want to be a chef. It really started during work experience at school in a local restaurant when I was 15. I loved the energy and the camaraderie in the kitchen straight away. From that moment, I was hooked.
My earliest food memory is my Granny Campbell’s sherry trifle. It’s something that’s always stayed with me, that sense of comfort and nostalgia.
I started with an apprenticeship working with Jamie Oliver at age 17 in one of his first London restaurants, alongside studying at Westminster Kingsway College. From the age of 19, I then spent a large part of my career with Gordon Ramsay, which really shaped me and instilled the standards I work to today.
My time [there] was fundamental in developing my approach to consistency, discipline and high standards.
Working at The Savoy taught me the importance of consistency at scale. Delivering at that level, day in, day out, with a large team, sharpens your focus on every detail.
I wanted to create a restaurant that celebrates British cooking in a way that feels both familiar and refined. I’m West London born and bred, so it felt like the right moment to put my own stamp on something that reflects that background properly.
It always starts with the produce. From there, it’s about British classics, but approached with a lighter touch and a bit of originality. The aim is to take something people recognise and elevate it without losing its identity.
I really like Alta. I think Rob Roy Cameron is doing an exceptional job there. It’s a restaurant with a clear point of view, and I think it’s only a matter of time before it’s recognised at the highest level.
I also rate Blacklock very highly. They really know what they do and they do one thing exceptionally well: meat cooked over fire.
The team at Fallow are doing a brilliant job. They’ve grown from a small pop-up into one of the most exciting operators in London, and they’ve done it with real clarity and consistency.
I spend as much time as I can with my family. I enjoy taking my daughters out foraging, especially during elderflower season. It’s a great way to switch off and reconnect with ingredients in their natural setting.
The crumpets have become a signature, so they’re always up there.I also have a real soft spot for the lamb faggot and the jam roly-poly. They’re dishes you don’t often see done properly anymore, and they bring that sense of nostalgia that sits at the heart of what we’re doing.
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Read more: Meet the chef: Mark Perkins of the Rosewood London
