martyn nail

Meet the chef: Martyn Nail of The Dorchester

04 Dec 2025 | | By Annie Lewis

At the helm of all culinary experiences at one of London’s greatest Grand Dames, Martyn Nail discusses new chapters and challenges

It’s been a big year for The Dorchester. Three years since it was announced that the five-star hotel would undergo a top-to-toe renovation, with a multi-million-pound price tag, the grandest of London’s Grand Dames has re-emerged this year in all its glorious Art Deco glory. Throughout the refurbishment, all of the hotel’s restaurants have remained open to the public – and steady at the helm is culinary director, Martyn Nail. 

Overseeing the menus, processes and creative vision of all five restaurants – including the three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse, celebrity hotspot China Tang and afternoon tea destination The Promenade – Nail has a lot on his plate. More recently, however, you can find him at The Grill where, alongside head chef Jacob Keen-Downs, he has reimagined one of London’s most storied dining rooms following Tom Booton’s departure earlier this year. 

Dating back to the hotel’s opening in 1931, the restaurant was designed by Oliver Ford and welcomed the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Alfred Hitchcock and Louis Armstrong. Throughout the decades it has retained a modern approach to classic British grill food, now offering a menu of Welsh rarebit crumpets, a signature fish pie, partridge with foie gras and roasted quince, and banana split for pudding. Uncomplicated and indulgent. 

Nail joined The Dorchester just as it announced its modern renovation, leaving a role as executive chef at Claridge’s, where he had worked for 36 years. Departing the only kitchen he has ever known, and swapping one Grand Dame for another, Nail hasn’t looked back and now spends his days crafting new menus, catering exclusive events, trying new ingredients and working on collaborations. Case in point is The Grill’s autumnal dining series in partnership with Ronnie Scott’s, allowing guests of the hotel to enjoy the soulful sounds of the Soho jazz club over the course of a delectable dinner. 

We sit down with Nail to talk new chapters and challenges, his early food memories and where he likes to eat outside of Park Lane. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

No! I always wanted to be a vet, but I didn’t want to spend seven years studying. I realised that level of education after college just wasn’t for me – I’ve always had a terrible attention span, and sitting in a classroom was never going to improve that!

What is your earliest food memory?

Plum jam. My grandparents had a Victoria plum tree in their garden, and I’ve never tasted plums quite as good since. The tree was so heavy with fruit that the branches had to be supported with wooden posts. I remember sitting on the draining board with my feet in the kitchen sink while my grandmother carefully ladled the dark purple jam into jars – I can still smell it now. She was a wonderful home cook who produced delicious meals every day, especially her Sunday roasts and Christmas lunches.

What restaurants did you work in during the early years of your career?

I worked across all of Claridge’s restaurants and spent time in every section of the hotel kitchens.

It must have been a huge decision to leave Claridge’s after 36 years. What convinced you?

It was the desire for a new challenge – one I didn’t realise I needed at the time. An opportunity arose to work with the team at The Dorchester on the renovation and rebranding of the hotel, and it felt like the perfect next step.

It was an exciting opportunity to help refresh the food and beverage outlets and develop new menus across the hotel. It was also a thrilling process to select new china, glassware, cutlery, equipment – all the details that bring a project like this to life.

the dorchester beef wellington
With so many restaurants and cuisines at The Dorchester, how do you split your time?

I start my day at 8.30am – an hour later than I used to, as 7–8am is now gym time. When I arrive, I check on the breakfast areas already in service before attending the 9am daily meeting. After that, I review the banqueting business for the day and the next with the banqueting team, then do the same with the pastry team. The rest of my day varies – it can include planning upcoming menu changes, developing special menus for events such as Chelsea Flower Show or Christmas, and attending project meetings for future areas of the hotel.

What influences the menus at The Dorchester?

Each menu is influenced by its location within the hotel – a sense of place is very important. Every aspect of the food and beverage experience should feel thoughtfully designed and perfectly suited to its surroundings. We also take into account the time of year and the seasonality of ingredients, as well as the strengths of the kitchen and service teams in each area.

What is your favourite London restaurant?

I love Wildflower in Pimlico. Aaron Potter is a very talented young chef whom I’ve known for more than 10 years. He’s a contemporary of Ben Marks from Perilla and Mochella – both Royal Academy of Culinary Arts apprentices and both exceptionally talented. They cook with strong classical foundations, producing modern, beautifully presented and incredibly tasty food.

Are there any other London chefs you’re impressed with at the moment?

Harry Kirkpatrick at Trinity and Graham Squire at The Goring. They both cook with classic foundations and bring an elegant, modern twist to their dishes.

the dorchester chocolate mousse
How do you spend your free time away from the restaurant?

I enjoy socialising with family and friends, both inside and outside the hospitality world. I’ve also met a wonderful mix of people through AMP Gym in Marylebone – it’s an eclectic community of fascinating professionals.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu?

Oh, the whole menu! But if I had to narrow it down, the steak tartare is beautifully presented and seasoned, served from a trolley with a touch of theatre. For main, the beef Wellington: a fillet of Aberdeen Angus with mushroom duxelles, wrapped in The Dorchester’s puff pastry.
And finally, the chocolate mousse – a rich, old classic made with our own blend of Madagascan chocolate, offering a deep flavour with a natural sour note and a surprisingly light texture.

Visit dorchestercollection.com

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