
Meet the chef: Hélène Darroze of The Connaught
The former Alain Ducasse protégé turned accoladed chef on how food runs in the family – and why she was apprehensive about opening a restaurant in London
Boasting six Michelin stars across three restaurants, Hélène Darroze is one of the world’s most decorated chefs – and she’d be the first to admit that’s no happy accident. “Food is in my DNA,” she explains, as we sit down to discuss her starry restaurant empire spanning France and London.
Having grown up in her parents’ fine dining restaurant, L’Auberge Le Relais, in south-west France – which was originally opened in 1895 by Darroze’s great-grandfather – she was taught to cook by her grandmothers. However, although culinary finesse may be in her DNA, it was not initially her calling, and she enrolled in a business degree before being sucked back into hospitality – Darroze’s first job just happened to be in the back office of Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV restaurant in Monaco.
Before long she officially became his assistant and was, much to her delight, unleashed in the kitchen – to rinse lettuce for three months. Despite being handed menial tasks, Ducasse spotted Darroze’s enthusiasm for fine dining, and she credits him with being a huge supporter of her work and encouraging her to branch out on her own. After three years, she instead returned to the family restaurant, retained its Michelin star and discovered a new-found confidence in cooking.


Images: Jerome Galland
When L’Auberge Le Relais closed due to financial difficulties in 1990, Darroze made the bold decision to open her inaugural outpost in the French capital, now known as Marsan par Hélène Darroze. Her first London restaurant launched in 2008, when she replaced Angela Hartnett as the leading lady at The Connaught, and success came quickly, with two stars in three years – and a third in 2021. A £70m refurbishment which tapped interior guru Pierre Yovanovitch to create his signature pink-hued interiors no doubt helped fuel the fanfare, but it’s the food that keeps people coming back. Think Isle of Mull lobster in tandoori spices, guinea fowl with Kenyan coffee and Japanese wagyu beef with fermented pepper.
Now dividing her time between London and France – where she opened her third restaurant in Provence in 2021 – and caring for her two daughters, we sit down with Darroze to discuss where she dines in London, how her approach to cheffing changes across the Channel, and why she could never choose a favourite dish on her menu.
I am the fourth generation of my family to cook. My family has always been very passionate about cooking; it was always about bringing our guests happiness through cooking with the best products we could source. I wanted my guests to always feel like they were in my home when we welcomed them into my restaurant. These two points have not changed and today it remains my philosophy. It is just that today, I have more rigour, maturity and expertise. And also more staff around me who think and work the same way I do. The more of us that think in this way, the more creative we are.
I started cooking when I was very young, and my mother told me that I understood how to taste before I could even walk. My first experience of cooking was baking cakes.
I realised that I wanted to be a chef quite late. I was 24, and it was after studying at university. In fact, I started working for Alain Ducasse in his office and not his kitchen. Thankfully, he was happy for me to spend so much time in his kitchen! He encouraged me to work as a chef when he saw my passion. To this day, I have never regretted my choice. I am lucky enough to have transferred my passion into a job, and there is not a single day when I am bored of going to work. The most valuable lesson is to follow your passion.
At that time, Alain Ducasse was the chef of only one restaurant. I was therefore very fortunate to spend so much time with him. He is not just a chef; he is a visionary who redefined the boundaries of gastronomy. He gave me some advice when I first started, such as “there is a place for women” – he was right and is also great at supporting women to succeed.


A deep desire to express my personal vision of French gastronomy in the city that is often considered its heart. It was also about finding a new playground, where I was little known or not known at all, allowing me to express myself more freely and make a name for myself.
Initially, I was apprehensive about opening a restaurant at The Connaught hotel because I had always envisioned myself as the chef of just one establishment. However, the owner insisted I visit the space, and as soon as I saw it, I fell in love. The Connaught turned out to be the perfect home for my UK restaurant, as it embodies elegance, history, and timeless charm – qualities that deeply resonate with me. The shared vision I found with the team made it feel like a natural fit from the very beginning.
In my restaurant in Paris, I want to give meaning to my dreams by imagining new gastronomic experiences based on my instinct and my emotions. The Connaught’s position in the heart of London [means] it’s more multicultural and sophisticated – and [offers] a very sophisticated cuisine [to match] my three Michelin-starred restaurant.
I live in Paris, which is also where my children go to school and where I manage three restaurants. I try to be in London as often as possible, at least twice a month.


It’s incredible to work with such an amazing team and having Michelin stars across my restaurants is such an incredible achievement. Every single member has played a vital role in making this happen. The most important thing is passion. You need to have a deep love for what you do. Authenticity is also crucial. For me, this means respecting the terroir, the season, and working with local producers. Most important of all is to [bring] joy to our guests.
I do not have a favourite dish – they are like children, and you cannot pick a favourite. If a dish is on the menu it is because I love it, but I could not pick one specifically.
For many years, The Clove Club has been one of my favourite fine dining places, and I am also a big fan of Clare Smyth’s approach at Core. I love Café Murano and Brat for casual restaurants and I also love Japanese food, and places like Roka, Chisou, or Cubé.
I love spending my free time with my children, travelling together to escape and discover new horizons. These moments allow me to recharge. I also love hosting dinners for friends at home and creating beautiful memories around the table. I also make time for sports, it helps me stay focused and energised for the demands of my work.
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