
Meet the chef: Eugene Korolev of Sino
We sit down with the accoladed head chef to talk about how he paused his culinary career to fight for his country, and changing perceptions of Ukrainian food
Ask a Londoner to name a typical Ukrainian dish and they would, stereotypically, be hard-pressed to think of anything other than borshch. Despite Ukraine being nicknamed the ‘breadbasket of Europe’ – thanks to its supremely fertile soils which have made it one of the top global exporters of grain and sunflower oil, feeding hundreds of millions of people worldwide – an embarrassingly small number of us could rattle off a string of dishes we knew to be native to Ukraine.
That, in a sense, has changed since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine which started in 2022. While Ukrainians have fought for their country, they have also fought fiercely to keep their culture and traditions alive – and few chefs feel more passionate about this than Eugene Korolev. Born in Ukraine’s fourth-largest city, Dnipro, Korolev cut his teeth in Europe’s most respected kitchens, including Vendôme near Cologne, Poland’s first Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Amaro, and Paris’ Benoit before launching his own restaurant, Manufactura, in Dnipro in 2021.

However, his career was put on pause less than a year later when Russia invaded. He told Great British Chefs: “I knew I would join the army and defend Ukraine if Russia invaded. It wasn’t even a question. You feel the need to protect everyone you care about.
“The first year was really tough. There were a lot of blackouts and a focus on just surviving more than anything else. But after 12 months we started to think differently. We started to believe in ourselves more and it felt like we could breathe a little easier. I think a lot of us finally accepted that the army was our new life and not a temporary thing.”
Things changed for Korolev when he got a call from his business-partner-to-be, fellow Ukrainian and restaurateur, Polina Sychova. She told him she wanted to launch a restaurant which celebrated their country’s cuisine and once Korolev’s fellow soldiers and commander got wind of it, they convinced him to go for it. After 18 months on the frontline, he moved to the British capital to launch Sino – in the process creating one of the hottest restaurants in London.
Rooted in resilience, culture, and the idea that food can carry identity even after war, Notting Hill-based Sino – named for the Ukrainian word ‘сіно’, meaning hay – opened last year under Korolev’s leadership and with a team he largely transplanted from his restaurant in Dnipro. While Sychova curated the space to reflect the natural beauty of Ukraine, with interiors featuring plenty of hay motifs, Korolev’s menu includes vareniky (dumplings) with ox tail, spicy beef broth, and housemade mushroom garum; chicken Kyiv with mash, wild garlic butter and truffle; and classic borshch with beef rib and black garlic brioche.
Here, we sit down to discuss changing Londoners’ perceptions of Ukrainian food, the decision to put his career on hold, and why Sino is as much about education as it is enjoyment.
I grew up in Dnipro, Ukraine, and I had a really happy childhood. I spent a lot of time with my grandparents, and like many Ukrainian families, every summer we’d be preserving vegetables, fruit and berries for the winter. We had our own garden, so most of what we ate came straight from there. I didn’t realise it then, but that’s probably where my appreciation for good ingredients started.
I actually wanted to be a footballer, not a chef. But the first time I stepped into a professional kitchen, I found that same feeling I loved about football – the teamwork, the pressure, always trying to get better. From that moment, I knew cooking was what I wanted to do.
Probably being in my grandparents’ garden. There was always something growing, and meals were built around whatever had just been picked. It was all very simple, but incredibly fresh. That taught me that if your ingredients are good, you don’t need to do too much with them.


I started cooking professionally in Ukraine before moving around Europe to learn from different kitchens. I was lucky enough to work in many Michelin-starred restaurants and luxury hotels, and every place taught me something different. Those experiences still influence how I cook today.
Consistency. That’s probably the biggest thing. People often think Michelin kitchens are all about perfection, but what impressed me most was how they delivered the same standard every single day. Every guest gets the same attention and care. I also learned that great cooking starts with great ingredients. You don’t need to overcomplicate them, you just need to treat them with respect. That’s something we try to do at Sino.
When I came to London, I realised most people only knew Ukrainian food through one or two dishes like borshch or dumplings. But our food is so much more diverse than that. I didn’t want to recreate traditional recipes exactly as they are. I wanted to show what modern Ukrainian cuisine could look like while still respecting where it comes from.
For me, Sino is about changing people’s perception of Ukraine. If someone leaves having discovered something new about our culture through food, then we’ve done our job.


It always starts with Ukraine and the seasons. We look at traditional flavours and regional ingredients, then think about how we can present them in a more modern way. I never want to use a technique just because it’s interesting, it should always make the dish better and help tell its story.
Definitely. I’d say Ukrainian food is still one of Europe’s hidden cuisines. It’s incredibly diverse, seasonal and built around amazing produce. For a long time it just wasn’t represented internationally in the same way as other European cuisines. Thankfully that’s starting to change, and it’s exciting to see more people becoming curious about it.


Kol. I really admire what Santiago Lastra has created. The restaurant has such a clear identity, and he’s shown that you can celebrate your country’s traditions without being restricted by them. That’s something I relate to with Sino.
Tom Phillips. He’s obviously an excellent chef, but what I admire most is his attitude. He’s passionate, always wants to improve, but he’s also humble and generous with his knowledge. I think those qualities are just as important as cooking well.


Football is still a big part of my life. I try to play once a week whenever I can. I also read a lot of books by chefs because there’s always something new to learn. And I love eating out. Every great restaurant teaches you something – not just about food, but about hospitality and creating an experience people remember.
Probably our chicken Kyiv. It’s such an iconic Ukrainian dish, but we’ve tried to make it feel lighter and more refined without losing what people love about it. For me, it sums up what we’re trying to do at Sino: respect tradition while giving people a fresh perspective on Ukrainian cuisine.
Visit sinorestaurant.co.uk
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