Meet the chef: Endo Kazutoshi of Endo at the Rotunda
The third-generation sushi master talks upholding Japanese and family traditions, and his favourite roll on the menu
Endo Kazutoshi says he had no choice but to become a sushi chef. Following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather before him, he talks about his career – marked by Michelin stars, two London restaurants and meticulous sushi skills – as his “destiny”. Which, of course, isn’t to say he hasn’t had to work hard.
Becoming a Japanese sushi master is no mean feat. The country takes production of its native delicacy extremely seriously, and it’s only around a decade into a traditional Japanese course that budding chefs can claim to have covered just the basics, spending much of that time watching and learning from seniors. After nine years, Kazutoshi was allowed to clean fish, prepare rice, visit the market and shop for ingredients alone before making simple maki rolls. So, despite sushi being in his blood, he was still restricted from handling more upmarket ingredients until he was nearly 15 years into his career which, in turn, highlights his unwavering commitment to the craft. “In my family, sushi isn’t just a skill, it’s a calling.”
It was Kazutoshi’s first sushi master who encouraged him to leave Japan to work at the country’s embassy in Madrid, and it was here that he met German restaurateur and founder of Zuma, Rainer Becker. Having spotted his talent, Becker invited him to move to London and helm his chain of modern Japanese restaurants, and Kazutoshi swiftly accepted. Eventually, however, Kazutoshi wanted to “make my own mark on the city” – and Rotunda was born.
Endo at the Rotunda
Opened in 2019, and relaunched in September 2024 after an extensive refurbishment, Rotunda embodies everything Kazutoshi thinks a high-end sushi restaurant should be. Serving an authentic and personal 20-course omakase menu (£250 per person, paid in advance) at a 12-seater table above the former Television Centre in White City, it is a masterclass in not only world-renowned Japanese cuisine, but also Kazutoshi’s commitment to the craft. Earlier this year, he opened his second restaurant – Kioku by Endo at Raffles at The OWO – to offer a curated a la carte menu which includes his signature nigiri and sashimi, alongside a selection of dishes that include cuttlefish nori pesto and elderflower, chashu pork ramen ravioli, and smoked yellowtail with green apple ponzu and sobacha guanciale.
Now with two bustling outposts in London, it’s safe to say Kazutoshi has achieved his ambition of making his mark on the city. After a very busy year, we sit down to discuss the traditions of sushi making, how he’s constantly striving to be better and his favourite hand roll on the menu.
I grew up in Yokohama, it’s a city on the outskirts of the Greater Tokyo area. My family are all sushi chefs, and I am the third generation. We have a restaurant which is currently run by my younger brother. Growing up, I was expected to become a sushi chef just like my father and grandfather – for me it wasn’t a choice, it was destiny. I wasn’t especially interested in sushi though, growing up I loved judo and was a regional champion in the sport. I even went on to study physical education at university.
My family’s restaurant. Of coming back home from school and walking past the guests as I headed upstairs. My mother and father were both hard at work in the restaurant and I grew up observing them and smelling the fragrance of the kitchen.
People train to become a sushi master for years – the training doesn’t ever stop really. I began my training by simply observing, first at my family’s restaurant and then at various restaurants in Tokyo. For the first nine years I would just be watching, making tea and helping out the master. It was brutal. The most formative part of my training came from Akitoshi Ohno at Narita in Nagoya City, he is the master I owe my skill to.
Since 2006, I’ve been working with Zuma, first in London and then opening restaurants all over the world. I loved to travel but after a while I wanted to build something permanent of my own. London had been at the start of my sushi career but it’s also a very vibrant city with much to offer. The Rotunda is my home, it’s an extension of me as a person. I want all of my guests to feel like they are stepping into something special, something that feels different from anything else offered in the city.
I always strive to make the Rotunda better. I try to make every service my best one yet. The refurbishment is part of this mentality. I was able to reflect on what I’ve been doing until now and to bring something more. Structurally, we made changes to make the guest experience even better. The new direction for the Rotunda is driven by the concept of – meaning a way of looking at the future through the perspective of the past. I used my grandfather’s notebooks to read up on recipes and techniques from 200 years ago. These inspired me to reconsider how I approach my work.
As a sushi chef, my ingredients are incredibly important to me, they are the basis of what I do. These days, I get the majority of my fish from the UK – the quality is incredible! Seasons are very important to me and dictate what I do with my menu whether that’s to do with fish or vegetables. For example, we are leaving mushroom season now but getting some incredible radishes which I will now add to the menu.
My favourite dish on the menu is my ‘business card’. It is a hand roll made with various cuts of tuna and topped with caviar. It’s the first course of my menu and the first thing I give to someone when I meet them.
Running any restaurant is a great responsibility, but a Michelin-starred one especially. Every service is about teamwork and doing the best job that we possibly can. I think it is very important to pass on skill and knowledge to the next generation. I advise any chef, whether they are just starting or in a position of leadership, to listen and watch carefully to everything going on around them, to go outside of their comfort zone and learn widely.
I love Helene Darroze at the Connaught. It’s a very special location and Helene’s food is excellent. Very technical and refined, but full of personality and warmth. We have recently cooked together at Kol’s Day of the Dead event and it was a great experience. I don’t really eat sushi in London, but when I do, I go to Sumi.
I really like Jonny Lake – he is a mentor and a friend. He has built something special with Trivet, a perfect combination of excellent food, wine and ambience. His food is so clever and playful.
There are so many things that I enjoy doing. I love music and collect vinyl records, mainly punk, jazz and hip-hop. I also love art and fashion. For me, visiting museums and galleries, going to independent shops and seeing how people dress is incredibly inspiring. I enjoy sports too, especially windsurfing.
Visit endoatrotunda.com and kiokubyendo.com
