Meet the chef: Emily Roux of Caractère
Having earned her first Michelin star earlier this year, Roux talks growing up in the kitchen, family legacy and branching out on her own
What’s in a name? For the Roux family, quite a lot actually. The culinary lineage of one of the world’s most famous gastronomic clans starts with French brothers Albert and Michel, who made their mark in London when they opened Le Gavroche in 1967. It went on to become the capital’s first three Michelin star restaurant, accolades it held from 1982 to 1993 – making the Roux name synonymous with stars.
Le Gavroche was handed to Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jr, in 1993 and he remained at the helm until 2024, when the restaurant closed after 56 years of business. In that time, Roux Jr became a household name, frequently appearing on Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen and Saturday Kitchen, as well as being an expert judge on MasterChef: The Professionals. Despite the closure of his family’s signature restaurant, Roux Jr continues to exert culinary influence elsewhere in the capital – namely at The Langham and its sister pub, The Wigmore, where he remains culinary director.
There is also another Michelin starred restaurant where you can enjoy a bite of the Roux legacy: Caractère. Run by husband and wife duo Emily Roux – Roux Jr’s only daughter – and Diego Ferrari, who honed his skill as head chef at Le Gavroche, the pair launched Caractère to combine their Italian and French heritages. It earned them their first coveted star earlier this year.
Roux and her husband Diego Ferrari
Some would say stars are in the Roux blood – but Emily contends it’s hard work that actually gets you there. Having started her culinary career at 18, she didn’t allow her surname to pave the way for shortcuts. “I think there is an added amount of pressure due to the surname, but I try to not let that affect me,” she says. “I have matured, grown and been in the industry a little while now. I definitely doubt myself a lot less now!”
Caractère, meaning ‘character’ in French, was born in 2018 in Notting Hill and was a lifelong dream of both Ferrari and Roux. In the kitchen, Ferrari works alongside head chef Gaetano Farucci to dream up new menus, while Roux heads all things pastry. Alongside inventive dishes like celeriac cacio e pepe with extra-aged balsamic vinegar, and Cornish blue lobster with cordyceps mushroom, XO and bisque, the restaurant puts sustainability at the fore.
Roux with her father, Michel Roux Jr
As a result, fish is sourced from Cornwall, meat hails from the Lake District and the wine list is becoming more biodynamic and organic by the day. Meanwhile, in the kitchen, the team follows a ‘head-to-toe’ approach, meaning every part of the ingredient is used and any waste is directed to an anaerobic digestion plant in north London, where it will be used to generate power for homes and make organic fertiliser for farmers.
Carrying on the culinary excellence of her family, albeit at a different restaurant to the one the Rouxs were so synonymous with, is no mean feat. We chat to Roux about her relationship with her father, managing pressure and branching out on her own.
Yes. I have always had a passion for anything food related. I think the kitchen has always been my ‘playground’. I really feel at home in the restaurant.
Definitely, although I don’t think they ever pushed it on me, but their passion was very obvious. Cooking and restaurants was all they talked about together!
I’m not very good at sitting behind a desk so most probably something manual and creative. I would love to know how to build or upcycle furniture.
Eating Daube de Boeuf at my grandparents’ house. Sticky, delicious, saucy, melt in the mouth; I might have been four years old. There are pictures of me covered in beef jus.
I did two internships at the age of 18-20 while at catering college. The first in Paris at La Table du Lancaster, which had one Michelin star at the time, and Le Louis XV in Monaco. Both were incredible experiences that really made me hungry for more.
We get on incredibly well. We don’t work together that frequently, so I think we really appreciate the times we are cooking together in the same kitchen and also get a chance to catch up.
Like any budding chefs, Diego and I both independently really wanted to open our own restaurant. When we met, it was a subject we talked about pretty early on. We agreed on joining forces, and building our dream together. We have been together for 13 years now, and I am super proud of everything we have achieved.
Seasonality is extremely important. But we can change up the menu whenever we want! So, a last-minute inspiration or desire to try something new can concretely happen in 48 hours.
It feels awesome! It’s what we have always wanted but it definitely wasn’t plain sailing. There were a lot of sleepless nights, endless ‘days off’ spent at work. It took us nearly seven years to achieve that Michelin star. I would say patience and hard work are key!
One is difficult! I have one for every occasion: Josephine, C&R Café, The Ledbury, Min Jiang and Hunan.
There are a few. I think Erin Yates is amazing. She really shined in the Roux Scholarship finals, I definitely think she is a chef to look out for! I also think that Francesco Dibenedetto at The Peninsula is incredibly talented and creative.
I spend a lot of time with my kids. I have two little boys that are FULL of energy! Lots of parks, scootering, bike-riding… and eating out, of course.
We currently have a lobster dish that is to die for. There is an intricate side dish and garnish that I am incredibly fond of. We make a mean XO sauce and toss some cordyceps mushrooms in there. The texture and umami flavour is delicious!
Visit caractererestaurant.com
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