darian schmidt

Meet the chef: Darian Schmidt of The Ned

14 Nov 2024 | Updated on: 15 Nov 2024 | By Annie Lewis

Fancy juggling ten menus at once? Welcome to the life of The Ned’s new executive pastry chef

We’re willing to bet that even those who are regulars at The Ned don’t realise it’s home to ten different restaurants. Tucked away in an array of private dining rooms, a jazz and cabaret bar, a rooftop and the former banking hall – where the famous music podium sits under grand chandeliers and atop a monochrome-tiled dancefloor – the hospitality behemoth in Bank is an all-encompassing party palace that can, quite literally, cater to every taste. 

Enter through the grand doors at 1 Poultry to be welcomed into The Ned’s historic 3,000 square metre hall, home to seven restaurants and three bars separated by 92 verdite columns and rows of Grade I-listed walnut banking counters. Cuisines range from Italian at Cecconi’s and Mexican at Cantina Malibu, to American at Electric Diner and Asian at Kaia (complete with its own sushi bar). Only those in the know, however, will be aware that the food offering stretches beyond the main hall, but it’s more than worth following your nose downstairs to discover The Ned’s best-kept secret: The Parlour, a late-night jazz and cabaret bar serving seriously delectable internationally-inspired menus. 

Now you have an idea of The Ned’s culinary capacity, try to imagine what it would be like to create every single dessert and pastry for every foodie outlet – and that’s where you’ll find yourself in the shoes of new executive pastry chef, Darian Schmidt. Offering up chocolate cremeuxes and mille feuilles at The Parlour, tiramisu and vanilla pannacotta at Cecconi’s, homemade mochi and matcha slices at Kaia, and vanilla waffles and red velvet cheesecake at Electric Diner, completing Schmidt’s never-ending to-do list is no small feat. 

That said, Schmidt brings a wealth of expertise to the role. Formerly at the two-star Schanz Restaurant in his homeland of Germany, before moving to London to work at the three Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, he now leads a team of 20 pastry chefs at The Ned, where he’s tasked with constantly evolving menus and coming up with new flavours to showcase the plethora of cuisines offered. In between recipe tasting, preparing the crème pâtissière, piping, frosting and cooking, we caught up with Schmidt to discuss how he stays inspired, his favourite pastry and why he loves a challenge. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

As a child, I told my parents I was going to become a chef when I was only four years old. They thought I was joking, but 11 years later, I started my first apprenticeship. I spent a lot of time with my mum in the kitchen, where she taught me all the basics of cooking and baking.

What’s your earliest food memory?

My mother’s beef roulades filled with pickles, bacon and sausage, served with spaetzle and red cabbage.

When did you start your career as a chef?

I began my first apprenticeship at 15 in Germany’s oldest Michelin-starred restaurant, Adler in Häusern, in the Black Forest. It’s an iconic institution for culinary training.

Which restaurants did you work in during the early years of your career?

I moved to Gmeiner in Appenweier near Strasbourg for a second apprenticeship, where I learned everything about pastry. I stayed there for three years before moving to Hamburg and, after that, I had the opportunity to work at my first three-star Michelin restaurant, Restaurant Überfahrt at Tegernsee, under Christian Juergens. I spent four years there, starting as a demi chef and eventually becoming the executive pastry chef. I then joined the two-star Schanz Restaurant in Mosel as an executive chef, where we earned a third star, an incredible honour. From there, I moved to London to work as the executive pastry chef at the fantastic restaurant led by Hélène Darroze before joining The Ned.

What was it like working under Hélène Darroze?

It was a tremendous honour to work for such a powerful figure in the culinary world. Darroze is a role model with exceptionally refined taste. I learned a great deal during my time with her, and alongside Marco Zampese, her executive chef. The menu changes monthly, which presents a unique challenge, keeping everyone on their toes and always thinking creatively.

What drew you to The Ned?

The Ned offers an incredible atmosphere with a diverse selection of restaurants. From a guest’s perspective, it’s like a luxury fairground – you could stay for weeks and never eat at the same restaurant twice. There’s live music daily, magicians performing table-side, and so much to experience. From a pastry chef’s perspective, it’s an immense opportunity to oversee ten unique restaurants, each with distinct needs and guest preferences. I enjoy the challenge and creative freedom this provides, from classic British desserts to Italian, Californian, and even fine dining desserts at The Parlour. My team of 20 pastry chefs are highly talented and supportive.

What influences your menus here?

Ideas often come to me at unexpected times. I like using unique ingredients and minimal sugar. I can’t force creativity; sometimes, I note an idea and return to it later. My most memorable inspiration struck during my first visa interview, where a particular smell sparked the idea for a chocolate and chicken skin dessert. It was so distracting I had to restart the interview process. For the dessert menus across The Ned, I wanted to create something simple yet exciting and surprising.

What is your favourite pastry to make and why?

I love making Christstollen. Not only is it my favourite Christmas treat, but it also requires precise attention to detail – temperature, humidity, proofing and baking all play a role. Stollen demands knowledge, intuition, and care, which makes it incredibly rewarding to perfect.

What is your one other favourite restaurant in London, and why?

One of my favourite places is Kiku in Mayfair, one of London’s oldest Japanese restaurants. Their precision in slicing fish and their balance of rice to fish are impressive. I’ve been there at least eight times, and their seasonal menu and sake selections continue to impress me.

Are there any other London chefs you’re impressed with at the moment?

I’m very impressed with Leo Aguirre Tobia, the executive chef from Mauro Colagreco’s restaurant at Raffles. His creativity and flavours are refreshing and light, and the menu flows seamlessly from start to finish. He’s an inspiring chef.

What's your favourite dish on the menu and why?

My favourite dish is the olive oil cream with lemon rosemary sorbet on The Parlour dessert menu. It’s refreshing, light, and not too sweet.

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Read more: Meet the chef: Andy Frantzeskos of Rovi