Meet the chef: Camellia Panjabi of Chutney Mary
We sit down with the chief tastemaker presiding over one of London’s biggest Indian culinary empires – and discover her secret to an excellent curry
You may not have heard of Camellia Panjabi, but you’ve probably tried some of her recipes. As head chef and culinary director of MW Eat Restaurants – the group which encompasses Chutney Mary, Amaya, Veeraswamy, and the four Masala Zone restaurants across the capital – she is one of India’s leading culinary personalities, famous for popularising her native country’s cuisine throughout London via a portfolio of uber-trendy restaurants.
Her culinary career began more than 65 years ago in her home city of Mumbai, when she landed a sales manager job, fresh from her University of Cambridge degree in economics, with the hospitality brand Taj Hotels. She was tasked with conceptualising a new restaurant for an outpost in Mumbai, and quickly discovered it was planning to serve Punjab cuisine that was created thousands of miles away in the northern corner of the country. Baffled by the idea of serving food that wasn’t highlighting flavours and recipes native to the hotel’s location, Panjabi embarked on a mission to build menus and restaurants that authentically reflected India’s wide-ranging cuisine while starting culinary conversations around regionality.
This mission brought her to London in 1982, when she opened Bombay Brasserie with Taj Hotels, alongside writing a series of bestselling books. Her most famous work, 50 Great Curries of India, highlighted to its two million readers how curry was simply an umbrella term when it came to flavour, featuring recipes of Mangalorean cauliflower to cardamom-spiced lamb, originating from the Sindhi community in Mumbai.
Chutney Mary
While in London, the opportunity to open a Panjabi-owned Indian restaurant with her sister presented itself, and Chutney Mary opened its doors in 1990 in Chelsea. It quickly garnered the reputation of being one of the best Indian restaurants in London, and the empire naturally grew to the MW Eats portfolio. Having paved the way for many lauded Indian chefs in the capital, and having reimagined Brits’ perception of the cuisine, many of Panjabi’s pioneering dishes remain on the menu today.
With a career marked by a commitment to change the culinary world, we sit down with Panjabi to discuss her humble beginnings, her favourite London restaurant, and the secret to a delicious curry.
My father was a food lover of both western and Indian food. He came from a family that used to do vast amounts of entertaining. My mother’s family ate thoughtfully, always using the best ingredients. Every morning as a child, I used to stand by my mother to hear the daily conversation with the household cook, analysing what he cooked yesterday, how he was to shop at the bazaar and then cook that day, with mother describing how it was to be prepared and served. So yes, I was fascinated by food. At that time, the vocation of a chef only existed in very large fancy hotels in India.
Eating a dish made for my father as he returned from work, gosht dabalroti: torn bits of white bread topped with delicious mutton curry, with sliced onions in lemon juice on top. Yummy!
In 1970, I started my career in the hospitality business in Bombay as sales manager of the Taj Mahal Hotel. My first brief was to start filling the restaurants with customers, which was a challenge at the time. I therefore started to study food and taste to figure out how to attract more customers.
My sister, Namita Panjabi, was the driver to open Chutney Mary, while I was still working in India at The Taj – but I already had London restaurant experience since opening Bombay Brasserie, so I was a keen supporter.
A good curry has to incorporate three essential elements in balance. The hero food ingredient could be poultry, meat, eggs or a mixture of vegetables. Then the supporting ingredients are, first of all, the main thickener: lots of onions, or coconut paste, milk yogurt or ground lentils. Fresh tastemakers are added, such as garlic, ginger, chilli paste, curry leaves or other herbs, and a collection of ground spices. Each curry needs different proportions of these. Finally, a souring agent is needed, like tomatoes, tamarind or lemon juice.
Veeraswamy
Namita and her husband, Ranjit Mathrani, acquired Veeraswamy – the oldest Indian restaurant in the UK – as its original long lease was coming to an end. Ranjjit had heard that it was for sale, and acted quickly. The site was in a poor physical condition, so it was a calculated risk although a wonderful chance to acquire a legend. It was first opened in 1926, so will mark its centenary next year.
Amaya is now marking its 20th anniversary this year. It was the first restaurant in Britain to have a theatrical open grill kitchen, and it received a Michelin Star a year after opening, which it has retained ever since.
In terms of Masala Zone, we felt the need to introduce the phenomenal range of street food of India to London, as well as the healthy ‘thali’ eating concept. Street food as a category did not exist in Britain, indeed in Europe, at the time – Masala Zone pioneered this trend. There are four Masala Zones now (in Soho, Covent Garden, Earl’s Court and the strikingly-beautiful latest site in Piccadilly Circus). They have evolved into hugely popular venues, with the appeal of their broad and delicious menu choices, attractive interiors and great value.
Roka in Mayfair. I go there often and enjoy the simple cooking, delicate flavours and a range of ingredients which are interesting.
Tom Aikens, for his masterly inventive cooking. And Andrew Wong for absolutely beautiful Chinese food.
I have just finished writing a book, to be published late summer, named Indian Vegetables, so I have spent a great deal of time researching, writing and testing dishes. Now that it is completed, I can meet up with friends again!
Tokri chaat which is a basket full of tasty titbits – including chickpeas and potatoes, and smothered with chutneys and whipped yoghurt. A best seller for the past 35 years!
Visit realindianfood.com
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