Meet the chef: Andy Beynon of Behind

29 Apr 2025 | | By Annie Lewis

On a mission to redefine preconceptions of British seafood with a 10-course tasting menu, Andy Beynon is a culinary force to be reckoned with

Imagine earning a Michelin star just 20 days after opening your first restaurant. Incomprehensible for many but a reality for Andy Beynon, who launched Behind on the fringe of Hackney’s London Fields just after the second lockdown in 2020. Ambitious? Certainly. Worth the risk? Undoubtedly.

Boasting just 18 covers at lunch and dinner, Behind takes its name from the restaurant’s design, featuring a horse-shoe shaped counter which invites diners to look “behind the scenes”. The unfussy fare is entirely fish-focused, taking its cues from the day’s catch in Cornwall to create a constantly-changing 10-course menu. The concept is, at its core, simple but effective. 

Despite cutting his teeth at a number of French-inspired, Michelin-starred restaurants – namely Pied à Terre and the now-closed The Square – Beynon wanted his eatery to hone in on seafood to both support local UK industries and fill a gap in the London market. “I find fish more creative to work with. Tasting menus are better suited towards fish and there is a boundless amount of creative ways you can go about shaping the experience,” he says. “Fish and shellfish, in general, are not something most people eat every day, so having it presented on the menu like that is very special. I also found that not many restaurants in London really focused on fish to such an extent, so it’s something I wanted to have a part in.” 

With one star firmly under his belt, we sit down with Beynon to discuss his Italian roots, how British seafood is “criminally” underrated and his favourite dish on the menu. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

I have always been driven towards creative, outgoing professions. I even wanted to be a hairdresser for a while — being creative and working with people was what I really wanted to do. I got into food because I was never really around it. Growing up, I never had any amazing meals or [was] exposed to interesting produce. Curiosity was the first step followed by the craziness of being a chef and working in such a full on, fast-paced environment.

What’s your earliest food memory?

I’m half Italian and we would often go back to visit family. I remember being eight years old and seeing all the nonnas getting up at six in the morning to roll pasta and make tortellini. Lunch was an event taken very seriously, everything would close for two hours and kids would come back from school as the whole family gathered around. You would never really see all these people in one place apart from at the dining table. After lunch, the nonnas would begin it all again – rolling pasta, braising meats, making stews – all in time for dinner. My favourite thing to eat has always been tortellini in a chicken stock with lots of chilli and heaps of aged parmesan. I remember the parmesan just sitting on the table like another condiment – salty, sharp and with lots of umami.

When did you start your career as a chef?

Like so many others before me, my time in the kitchen began with menial jobs such as washing up and a bit of simple cooking. I didn’t know much about restaurants back then and social media wasn’t really around to direct me. I ended up just looking up restaurants online and searching for what was considered really good. So that’s how, at 17, I started at J Sheekey. It was so busy, chaotic even, and very old school from the waiters to the kitchen. Working there taught me a lot; mainly about the importance of routine and structure.

What restaurants did you work in during the early years of your career?

My first taste of a Michelin-starred kitchen was before I turned 24, at Matt Weedon’s Lords of the Manor, where I worked for two and half years. It was a really big hotel, and the kitchen was focused on classic French cooking. I lived in London at the time and would commute to the Cotswolds which would sometimes take me over an hour. I then worked at Pied à Terre, which was an intense but very educational experience, followed by Michel Wignall’s The Latymer and Phillip Howard’s The Square, which was a two star.

Do you think British seafood is underrated?

British seafood is very underrated considering it’s of such high quality. You get amazing catches from all over the island, from Scotland and their incredible scallops to Cornish day catch, which we use in the restaurant. We tend to export a lot of our seafood and often you’ll find yourself in places such as Spain and Portugal eating Scottish langoustines…

There are also certain fish that we just don’t consume enough of in the UK, for example grey mullet which is criminally underused.

What influences your menus at Behind?

Our menu is based around the catch of the day from Cornish day boats so it always changes depending on what we can get in. We also love working with seafood that is not used as much, such as smoked kippers. At Behind we try to revive forgotten ingredients through our own take on tradition. We also make a lot of reductions using natural seasonings and shellfish such as crab and lobster, as well as using elements such as foraged seaweed.

How would you describe Behind in three words?

Covert, behind-the-scenes, and fun.

How does it feel running a Michelin starred restaurant? What's your advice for chefs working towards Michelin-star status?

It’s a fantastic feeling to be recognised like that — but it also comes with high expectations and a lot of pressure. You are always expected to deliver at a very high standard and to be consistent. It’s important to keep your team happy, engaged and always learning.

I would advise them to not rush through their career and to work in the best restaurant possible with chefs they admire and want to learn from. Star or no star, it is important to surround yourself with the best and most inspiring people.

What is your one other favourite London restaurant?

I love the Ritz and make it a tradition to go every year. It is such a bastion of tradition that forms the base of modern cookery. Their hospitality and showmanship are unparalleled, and this is something we also strive to achieve at Behind by interacting with our guests and welcoming them to observe our process as part of the dining experience.

Are there any other London chefs you're impressed with at the moment?

I really admire Sameer Taneja from Benares. His use of spice and creativity with Indian cooking is unparalleled, plus he is an all-round fun guy.

How do you spend your free time away from the restaurant?

I spend time with my young son, cooking, eating and teaching him about football – our team is Arsenal. He is very creative, so we often paint together.

I also love to travel and discover countries through eating. It’s great for inspiration and a fun way to learn about the place and the culture.

What's your favourite dish on the menu?

The menu is always changing, but at the moment we have a chawanmushi – a Japanese savoury custard – with crab, sake and tuna which I really love.

Visit behindrestaurant.co.uk

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