andrew wong
Image: Jutta Klee

Meet the chef: Andrew Wong of A.Wong

16 Oct 2024 | | By Annie Lewis

We sit down with the Michelin-starred chef to talk combining history, chemistry and food to redefine Chinese cuisine

Having grown up in his parent’s Cantonese restaurant, Kym’s, Andrew Wong was adamant he didn’t want to be a chef. One glance at his family tree, however, and it’s obvious hospitality was in his blood. His grandfather, who moved to London as a Chinese refugee, ran a restaurant in Chinatown, and his father was the first Chinese publican in the UK. As pedigrees go, it’s pretty impressive, and yet Wong was quite sure a life in the kitchen wasn’t for him. 

A yearning to travel combined with intellectual curiosity led Wong to a chemistry degree at Oxford and then to London School of Economics to study anthropology. But his postgraduate travel plans were firmly put on hold when his father passed away and he stepped up to lead Kym’s kitchen – and it’s during this time he gained not only a newfound appreciation for his heritage and native cuisine, but also its history. 

This sparked a six-month spiritual journey across China, delving deep into the food legacies which have left an imprint on each province in the world’s third largest country. From Hunan to Fujian, and Xinjiang to Shandong, Wong’s trip cemented his belief that there was much more to Chinese cuisine than chow mein and chicken balls – and, upon his return in 2012, A.Wong was born. 

Named for his parents Albert and Annie, A.Wong opened on the exact location of his parents’ former Pimlico restaurant. In 2017, it was awarded a Michelin star followed by a second in 2021, marking the first time a Chinese restaurant outside of Asia had been awarded this accolade. His secret? Meticulous research and a menu that celebrates the diversity of China’s food culture. 

From its acclaimed dim sum lunches to the Collections of China menu – a three-hour multi-course journey across the country’s 14 international borders – Wong’s dishes are contemporary and artistic interpretations of traditional recipes, paying homage to authentic flavours and techniques developed throughout Chinese culinary history. Many dishes are developed with the help of Wong’s friend and food anthropologist Dr Mukta Das, with the duo analysing ancient recipes, texts and artworks held by the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS). Wong then translates the findings into dishes that are relevant today; an undertaking that saw Wong granted an official research associate position at SOAS in 2020. 

Here, we sit down with Wong to discuss his life-changing trip to China, cultural influences in food and the honour of being awarded two stars. 

Tell me about your childhood. Did you always want to be a chef?

My parents’ Chinese restaurant, Kym’s, was an old-school Cantonese restaurant and takeaway, filled with brightly coloured sauces, dragons, and everything you would imagine an Eighties Chinese takeaway to be. I worked in their kitchen as a teenager but always said I would never want to be a chef.

When my father passed away, I needed to step up and help my mum run the family business. Over time, I became more interested in the history of Chinese cuisine. I travelled around China and perfected and honed my new skills before closing Kym’s and opening A.Wong.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Sichuanese-smacked cucumbers were always in my grandmother’s fridge, fermenting for weeks. We would eat it with everything, brunch, lunch, dinner, as a condiment or even as a midnight snack.

Tell me about your grandfather's restaurant in Chinatown. Do you have fond memories of visiting?

It was one of the first restaurants to serve dim sum in London. I was quite young and mostly remember playing underneath the tables.

Why did you want to study chemistry and anthropology? Do you think those studies have helped you in your culinary career?

I’ve been working with Dr Mukta Das for about five years now. It’s a real privilege and one I don’t take lightly. We introspectively look at the cuisine in terms of flavour, technique, balance, and cultural etiquette. I think all of this – taste, cultural, and social, affects our perception of the dining experience and taste. Mukta’s approach is historical, looking at all sorts of economic and social aspects behind whatever dish we are researching. I look at it from a chef’s perspective, including what it will taste like, what the texture will be, and how I can logistically make this happen.

We do a lot of research to ensure that the base flavour profiles are nearly identical to historical and technical Chinese techniques. But at the same time, I like to think that our food is quite explorative, in the sense that we don’t specify that our food comes from a particular region or style. I want people to take an interest in the flavours of a dish, and encourage people to go out and explore other Chinese restaurants they may not have done before. This opens us up to criticism, but if what we are serving isn’t deemed authentic, that’s okay because it’s not supposed to be.

Tell me about your 'working tour of China'. What's the biggest lesson you learnt?

The trip ignited a burning curiosity in me, not just in exploring the vast cultural and regional differences that have come to define the gastronomic identity of China. It also opened my eyes to the beauty of China’s 3,000-year history first-hand. It inspired a newfound respect in me for the local and ceremonial aspects of Chinese culinary heritage and began the formation of my ideas for approaching cooking. While extensive, the trip only highlighted the remarkable learning journey ahead for me.

Why did you want to open A.Wong in Pimlico?

My parents had been running their restaurant on that site since the 1980s. The restaurant had sentimental value and a good location in Victoria. There was no reason to open anywhere else, and I’m pleased we didn’t.

Our approach at A.Wong is to celebrate Chinese culture, craft, history, and techniques. Over time, the menu and cuisine have become more personal. I would describe it as ‘A.Wong cuisine’. This reflects my heritage, our exploration, and how we approach dishes.

The menu celebrates techniques, some very old and some more modern. We draw on the vast array of ingredients from the Chinese kitchen – fermented, dried, and salty – with vegetables, seafood, and meat to create a balanced and harmonious dining experience.

What influences your menus?

Our Taste of China menu is inspired by my time travelling around China. I wanted to give our guests an insight into these diverse, regional flavour profiles, from flash-frying to steaming, the amount of pickle, preservatives, and the type of fermented product. All these things are integral parts of a region’s identity and its role in China as a whole.

As for dish development, it varies. Sometimes, I’ll ask Dr Mukta Das to look into something specific, like pastry, or she will share a poem or new research that interests me. We don’t attempt to replicate dishes exactly; it’s more of an inspiration and springboard for developing new ideas. These can be flavour combinations sometimes based on poetry we’ve read, Chinese traditional medicine or anecdotes from historical figures. It’s a seam from which our dishes grow.

How did it feel being awarded two Michelin stars?

The first Michelin star was for my team at A.Wong, they all work incredibly hard, and to be recognised was wonderful. Receiving the second star was an extraordinary moment. It was a significant achievement for me personally and for Chinese restaurants globally. It was for our community, our forefathers. I am just a tiny part of the thousands and thousands of restaurants that have come before us. It’s good to see that a global brand like Michelin broadens and represents multiple cultures and cuisines.

What is your one other favourite London restaurant?

Hakkasan Hanway Place is such an important restaurant for me personally. 25 years ago, when it first opened, it changed how London looked and perceived Chinese cuisine.

Are there any other London chefs you're impressed with at the moment? Why?

I think there are very few chefs in the world who are doing individualist things. Often, you can map the influences, but at Ikoyi, Jeremy Chan’s food is unique and a very personal expression of what he does. I admire original chefs who look at cuisine from different perspectives, not just following trends.

Also, Clare Smyth, because Core is a restaurant where you can see that every element of food, service, reservations, and decor has been meticulously thought through to a level of perfection. My general motto in restaurant life is ‘if in doubt, look to Clare’ – an incredible chef and an inspirational restaurateur.

What's your favourite dish on the menu and why?

Oh, that’s a hard one. I don’t think I could choose a favourite dish as all of the dishes on the menu tell a story and are unique in their own way.

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