Meet the chef: Alex Dilling of Hotel Café Royal
We sit down with the London-born, Michelin-starred chef to talk about his mentorship under Alain Ducasse, love for caviar and pressure to retain those double-edged stars
Avid readers of this series, or anyone who moves in culinary circles, will know that those under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse are destined for great things. And when we say great things, we mostly mean Michelin stars. Ducasse’s mentorship has seen protégées such as Jean-Philippe Blondet, of the eponymous restaurant at The Dorchester achieve three of them, Hélène Darroze – now one of the world’s most decorated female chefs – gain and retain two at The Connaught and, of course, Alex Dilling, who has been awarded two stars at his restaurant within the Hotel Café Royal.
Born in London, Dilling spent his childhood between the capital and California, settling State-side after a stint at Westminster College (a “wonderful experience”). It was in America that he landed a job with Ducasse at the now-closed Adour restaurant at The St Regis Hotel, New York, which set him on a path to Michelin-starred success.
In 2022, Dilling launched his own eponymous restaurant at London’s five-star Hotel Café Royal. Comprising only 34 seats, it made headlines first as the chef’s first self-titled restaurant and then again six months after it opened when it was awarded two Michelin stars (which he has since retained). Here, we sit down with the chef to talk the power of caviar, the art of French cooking, and why London will always be home.
Inside Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal. All images: Justin de Souza
I am very lucky to have grown up in a family where food and spending time around the table was important. Watching my mum and grandad in the kitchen was always a real joy for me and, by the age of 15, I could tell I needed a career where food would be the focus.
I trained in London at Westminster College, which was a wonderful experience. I later went on to New York and worked for Alain Ducasse.
I love the discipline, the culture around exceptional ingredients and the amazing history and culture that surrounds it.
Those were some of the most important years for me as a chef. It really made me cook the way I do today. He is an incredible leader and mentor – not just for me, but for a whole generation of chefs. Working in one of his kitchens could be likened to going to Harvard or Oxford.
I worked for Caviar Russe in New York, so I naturally got to play with caviar a lot during my time there. It’s a very complex ingredient that can really elevate a dish, but it’s also completely delicious as it is.
They are both incredible, and are melting pots of gastronomy. I think they’re two of the best dining scenes in the world. That being said, for late-night eating, New York takes it – a chef’s dream after a long shift.
It’s a really iconic space. I think what I wanted to create was a perfect fit for this beautiful property.
Product. We source incredible products from our loyal and long-standing suppliers and artisans. We then utilise our knowledge and techniques to get the most out of them.
It is a huge honour. We don’t take it lightly and we have to push to keep them every day – not just by doing the same as the day before, but constantly trying to grow, evolve and get better. Consistency is key.
Our Brittany Pigeon ballotine. I just adore this product and we pair it with truffles and foie gras. What’s not to like?
I love Bentley’s: great oysters and impeccable seafood in a very professional yet approachable atmosphere.
This list is long but Jeremy Chan at Ikoyi is just incredible. The cuisine there is really unique to him. I am excited to see him get his third star very soon.
Cooking at home with my family – and, as I’m half British, a trip to the pub for a cold pint.
Visit hotelcaferoyal.com
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