If there were an award for the most dramatic rise and fall in favour, absinthe would surely win. Made with wormwood, anise, fennel and other culinary herbs, the spirit began life in 1792 as a cure-all medicinal elixir. During the 1840s, it was dispensed en masse to French troops in Algeria, who brought their newfound tastes back home. By the 1860s, absinthe was served everywhere from cafes to cabarets, enjoyed by all social classes, and 5pm became known as l’heure verte — ‘the green hour’. It was particularly favoured by bohemians and creatives, including Van Gogh, Picasso, Toulouse-Lautrec, Hemingway and Lewis Carroll, who prized it for its stimulative effects on their artistic minds. Or, as Oscar Wilde famously quipped, ‘What difference is there between a glass of absinthe and a sunset?’

By the start of the 20th century, absinthe was making enemies. It spawned crime, addiction, delusion and was wickedly hallucinogenic (Wilde’s accounts of seeing a ‘field of red tulips’ as he stumbled through London’s Hotel Café Royal did not help such matters). Events including a gruesome triple murder after a couple of glasses, a growing prohibition movement, and protests from local winemakers who saw their businesses diminishing saw absinthe fall quickly out of favour. Switzerland banned it in 1908, causing a domino effect across Europe (though not the UK) and the US, culminating in a production ban in France in 1915.

It is now known that absinthe does not cause hallucinations, and the feelings of stimulation or sedation, delight or despair, are side-effects no different to those felt when consuming other herbal or alcoholic concoctions in large amounts. Most of the detrimental reports from years ago can be pinned on the unregulated and untreated ingredients pumped into poor-quality absinthe. During the late 1980s, bans were gradually lifted, and regulated production began again.

The sensational demand for absinthe is unlikely to peak in such a way again, but it should come as no surprise that people are increasingly curious, and just as the popularity of craft spirits ushered in a huge renaissance for gin, drinkers are opening their minds to the most notorious of spirits. Furthermore, a renewed appreciation of classic recipes and unique flavour profiles “keeps absinthe prominent among cocktail enthusiasts”, says Aude Fraisse, assistant bar manager at The Peninsula’s Brooklands Bar. If you’re looking to expand your horizons, fuel your creativity and create a little l’heure vert of your own, these are the best bars in London to drink absinthe.

Gothic Bar at the Midland Grand, King’s Cross

The Gothic Bar at the Midland Grand in King’s Cross is home to one of the capital’s few absinthe fountains. The purpose of the fountain is to allow control over the amount of water you dilute your absinthe with – a process known as ‘louching’. Traditionally, water filters through a sugar cube held over the glass by an absinthe spoon, allowing the sweet syrup to drip down, turning the spirit from translucent to milky. Usually, the fountain holds just water and ice, but citrus peels, mint leaves or rose petals can be added to enhance certain characteristics. Manager Jack Porter describes the ritual as ‘flamboyant’ yet intimate, as it allows guests to create a drink exactly to their tastes, or explore different variations. His favourite part? The fountain brings people together, sharing in the experience and creating a dialogue between strangers that may never otherwise meet.

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NW1 2AR, gothicbar.london


The Green Bar at Hotel Café Royal, Soho

Absinthe has long been entwined with the history of the Café Royal: a traditional party palace for artists and writers, including the aforementioned Wilde. The aptly named Green Bar and its designated absinthe menu pay tribute to the spirit and the man — a portrait of Wilde with a bottle of La Fée Absinthe hangs near the entrance — offering guests an introduction to his favourite beverage. The O.W. Punch, made with bergamot liqueur, absinthe, white apricot tea, agave nectar, cardamom and lime, is presented in a double-tapped glass fountain supported by a womanly sculpture, and tastes just as striking. The rest of the menu is equally flamboyant. No wonder O.W. loved it so much.

10 Air St, W1B 5AB, hotelcaferoyal.com

The American Bar at The Savoy, The Strand

Named after Lewis Carroll’s Jabberwocky (it is rumoured that Carroll wrote Alice Through the Looking Glass after a lively amount of absinthe paired with opium), the Jabberwock Sour was created in 1930 by famed Savoy bartender, Harry Craddock, and has been on the menu ever since. Absinthe is added to gin, vodka, sherry, two types of tea, lemon and egg white, bringing those unmistakable herbaceous notes to play among the sweet and sour. It might sound ‘Curiouser and curiouser!’ as Alice once said, but this delectable drink will take you to Wonderland.

Strand, WC2R 0EZ, thesavoylondon.com

The Connaught Bar, Mayfair

Designed to surprise in more ways than one, the Connaught Bar’s Chimera is a crystal clear drink with a cube of ice containing a Sansho leaf suspended in the middle. Here, the illusion lies in what you don’t see: deep flavours of whisky and Calvados brandy infused with miso caramel, Cocchi Americano and coriander miraculously unfold with every sip. These mellow flavours are contrasted with peppery Sansho absinthe, creating a play of depths on the palate. Refined yet unforgettable.

The Connaught, Carlos Pl, W1K 2AL, the-connaught.co.uk

Brooklands Bar at The Peninsula, Belgravia

First appearing in Charles H. Baker’s 1939 The Gentleman’s Companion (a must-read for food and drink wanderlust), the Pan American Clipper is a drink ‘for when one seeks a cocktail to unwave’. Absinthe is used for soft, anise-forward notes that contrast beautifully with sweet grenadine, fruity Calvados and tart lemon juice. It boasts a signature punch which hits right where it should, every single time.

1 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7HJ, peninsula.com

The Rivoli Bar at The Ritz, Mayfair

The Rivoli’s Sazerac cocktail demonstrates the power of a little absinthe. Used to rinse the glass, mere whispers of anise and liquorice are enough to unlock new depths from every other ingredient that goes into the liquid proper. The Ritz doesn’t do things by halves: its mixologists use exquisite vintage absinthe followed by a combination of bright Peychaud bitters, top shelf Louis XIII Cognac, and a gold-leaf sugar cube to sweeten the deal. It’s bold, complex, fruity and utterly enlightening.

The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR, theritzlondon.com

Devil’s Botany, Leyton and Hackney


After years spent trying absinthe around the world, Rhys Everett, co-founder of Devil’s Botany, knew the UK was missing out. Launching in 2021, its mission is to provide an approachable and innovative experience that encourages people to try this “misunderstood” spirit, whether by visiting the distillery, its parlour in Hackney, or by shaking up your own absinthe serve at home. Created with the amateur cocktail maker in mind, Devil’s Botany’s London Absinthe doesn’t cloud when water is added, meaning you can mix with other liquids and keep the flavour fresh and crisp. Notable blends include the Chocolate Absinthe Liqueur and limited edition Bourbon Barrel-aged, but you can see and experience it all first hand as the Leyton distillery is open to the public every Saturday.

16a Heybridge Way, E10 6JF, devilsbotany.com

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