What do you picture when you hear the words ‘fine jewellery workshop’? Perhaps it’s leather-faced East Enders with soldering iron-scarred knuckles hunched over benches in Hatton Garden basements. Maybe it’s chic Issey Miyake-clad designers sketching architectural masterpieces in airy Parisian lofts. What you probably don’t picture is a fairly nondescript office building on the outskirts of a tiny medieval town on the shores of Lake Lucerne. Welcome to the home of Bucherer Fine Jewellery.

Chances are the Bucherer name isn’t one you’re all that familiar with. Or at least not as a fine jewellery house. Maybe it rings bells as a multi-brand watch and jewellery retailer. Or perhaps you’re vaguely aware of the now-shuttered Carl F. Bucherer watch house. But as a purveyor of diamonds to rival the likes of Harry Winston and Graff? Unlikely.

In some ways this makes sense. While Bucherer is so ubiquitous in its homeland that at one point during my visit a native refers to is ‘the Pret of Switzerland’ for its on-every-corner-ness, beyond the Swiss border the use of the name across three disparate but connected businesses has somewhat muddied the waters. If even I, someone who is paid to keep up with such things, wasn’t quite clear on what exactly Bucherer was, what chance did the everyman have?

Skyline High Jewellery necklace

Well, no more. The Bucherer Group was bought by Rolex in 2023 – quite the full-circle moment given that the original Bucherer boutique in Lucerne was the first retailer in the world to stock the full Rolex collection back in 1924 – and, while it continues to operate independently, this is the kind of firepower guaranteed to jolt even the most traditional of heritage houses into action.

So, where to begin on your ascent from beloved regional brand to global domination? A nondescript office block on the shores of Lake Lucerne, apparently. Because, while the long-time home of Bucherer HQ may look bland from the outside (I’m assured a major exterior facelift is in the works), inside it’s a veritable Aladdin’s cave of jewels and gemstones.

Having undergone a major renovation over the past couple of years to become part Bond Street-style boutique, part high-tech jewellery workshop, an entire floor is now given over to the Bucherer atelier, meaning the entire production cycle, from design and stone sourcing to setting and polishing, can take place without the jewellery ever leaving the building. On paper, it may not sound like much, but, in an industry in which it has become normalised for stone cutters in Antwerp to work to a design sketched in Milan, creating stones destined to be set in London before being sold in a boutique in Paris, it remains a rarity.

Which, says Bucherer Group Chief Jewellery Officer, Robert Ambord, also makes it a key USP. “It offers several advantages. Let’s take the following example: our design and construction team create a piece, which is then passed on to our goldsmiths for production. During the process, they may realise that a particular design element cannot be implemented as initially thought. Working together in the same space allows for straightforward coordination, well-aligned solutions between the teams and relevant changes. It also helps improve the overall understanding between departments and their specific needs and challenges.”

For a jewellery house that counts bespoke commissions as 50 per cent of its business, it also offers a neat way to entice clients looking to get a little closer to their pieces. As part of the HQ redesign, a luxe VIP client lounge was added, creating a space for Bucherer to both host intimate events, welcome loyal clients keen to get involved in the design of their jewellery, and create “a wonderful opportunity to show them the craftsmanship that goes into each piece,” says Ambord.

“Bucherer’s strength lies in its flexibility when it comes to bespoke; it’s something other jewellery houses cannot always offer,” he adds. “Customers are invited to be part of the whole story, from layout to polishing. It creates an understanding, they see what it takes, how long it needs, why they have to wait. They realise what goes into it. It’s important to us that the customer realises that we are not a factory.”

Inner Fire High Jewellery necklace

During their visit, a client may sit down with the design team to flesh out custom pieces, select stones from the in-house vault, inspect the work of stone setters, or even try their hand at polishing the final piece. Just like being measured for a Savile Row suit, or building your own Bentley from the ground up, as a means of turning retail into an experience that clients are unlikely to forget, it’s certainly up there.

And while a bespoke commission may be as simple as swapping the stones in an existing design (custom arrangements of the brand’s gobstopper cocktail rings are proving particularly popular), Ambord says the “sky is the limit”. Can think of no better way to spend your money than by having the button of your Lamborghini recreated in solid platinum? Bucherer has been there, done that.

Of course, plenty of people can think of far better ways to spend their money, which brings me on to step two in the plan for worldwide recognition: high jewellery. Just as a fashion brand who wants to play with the big boys must, in general, create an haute couture collection, so a jewellery house that wants to demonstrate its craftsmanship credentials offer high jewellery.

And while Bucherer absolutely still caters to those looking for a pair of simple solitaire diamond earrings, or a classic engagement ring, over the past year, it has spent a lot of time beefing up its high jewellery collections with pieces that have a more contemporary feel. Case in point: Skyline. First unveiled in 2024, and taking its cues from New York’s iconic architecture, this year it was reworked with a focus on Fancy Vivid yellow diamonds in a demonstration of Bucherer’s ability to source these incredibly rare stones. Consider it a statement of intent for things to come.

“From a craftsmanship standpoint, it is important to us to preserve traditional artisanal techniques,” says Ambord, of the house’s approach to design. “We integrate modern technologies where they add value. Our creations are defined by a timeless and elegant design language and our design team are also inspired by archival pieces. Some collections and one-of-a-kind pieces feature a contemporary touch – whether through distinctive cuts or the interplay between metal, form, and gemstones. At its core, our work is about finding the right balance.”

Naomi Watts at the 2024 Met Gala

Ariana Grande at the 2025 Critics' Choice Awards

And with high jewellery comes the final piece in the global fame jigsaw: celebrity dressing. Having only begun to dip its toe into the world of red carpets in recent years, Bucherer is keen to impress that it doesn’t pay for endorsements and, to date, has no celebrity ambassadors. That, of course, hasn’t stopped A-listers requesting its pieces organically, with recent appearances including on Poppy Delevingne at the 2025 Fashion Awards and Ariana Grande at the 2025 Critics' Choice Awards. Naomi Watts, Selena Gomez and Eva Longoria are fans, too.

“It's always a special feeling to see our creations worn by inspiring women on red carpets around the world,” says Ambord, noting that the high jewellery iterations of the brand’s signature diamond-heavy Inner Fire collection are among its most requested. “My team creates pieces that are made for strong, independent women who love to wear jewellery that feels effortless – from day to night, from everyday moments to unforgettable occasions.”

My advice? Get ahead of the curve: it won’t be long until we're seeing Bucherer Fine Jewellery everywhere.

Visit bucherer.com

Read more: Where to buy an engagement ring in London