Whether it’s an engagement ring, anniversary gift, eternity ring, or special birthday gift, jewellery has been the go-to for marking milestone moments for centuries. And, while our fascination with all things precious and sparkly shows no signs of waning, for those looking to commemorate the occasion with individuality and meaning there’s only one way forward: commission a piece of bespoke jewellery.

Which, for many, is easier said than done. After all, anyone can walk into a boutique and pick something from a cabinet but designing your own unique piece can be a much more involved process – and the options are often, quite literally, endless.

So where to begin? We spoke to Sam Stirrat, founder of Award Winning British jewellery brand Blackacre, to answer some of the most commonly asked questions around how to commission bespoke jewellery and what the process involves, from ideation to final fitting.

First things first, what exactly is bespoke jewellery?

Simply put, bespoke jewellery is a piece that has been designed to the wearer’s exact specifications and wishes, rather than a piece created as part of a ready-to-wear collection. Beyond mere aesthetics, however, bespoke jewellery is often imbued with deeper meaning and personal touches known only to its commissioner.

“People wear jewellery for a number of reasons, beyond its aesthetic beauty, it is often the unique meaning behind a piece that carries the most value to the wearer,” explains Stirrat. “Bespoke creations are typically orientated around, or reserved to mark, special occasions. From bespoke engagement rings and wedding bands, to push presents, anniversaries and professional achievements there is no greater way to capture a memory and carry it with you through time, perhaps into the next generation too.”

Why choose bespoke pieces?

The first, and arguably most important, reason for choosing bespoke jewellery is the guarantee of a one-of-a-kind piece. “There has been a general shift in mindset whereby people desire creations that talk to their own story, circumstances and celebrations,” says Stirrat. “Particularly when it comes to bespoke engagement rings, this is a considered purchase that requires a genuine thoughtfulness that goes well beyond the creation alone.”

The unique nature of bespoke jewellery goes hand-in-hand with an innate sentimentality – especially when the piece is destined to be given as a gift. “For someone to spend weeks researching, with a designer working specifically to your needs over a period of months, shows a level of care that will stand the test of time. Walking into a shop to purchase something the week before doesn’t quite carry the same meaning…”

Of course, there is nothing stopping you from commissioning a piece of bespoke jewellery entirely for yourself – in which case the opportunity to unleash your inner creativity is also something to be relished. Whether creating something utterly unconventional or designing an heirloom with future generations in mind, the bespoke process guarantees the freedom to form a piece that you’ll treasure forever.

How to choose a bespoke jewellery house

While many jewellery houses have a bespoke offering, for a truly exceptional experience it’s a good idea to find one that specialises in bespoke, rather than offering it as an additional service to its larger ready-to-wear business. When Blackacre was founded in 2017, for example, its entire offering was tailored to bespoke engagement rings (indeed, its name comes from the location where its first-ever client went down on one knee). While it has since expanded into a wider range of products and a small ready-to-wear offering, the core business is bespoke, meaning you’ll be looked after from beginning to end – which can be especially important if this is your first commission.

It’s also crucial to find a jewellery house that matches your values. While the industry has, in large part, cleaned up its act over the past few decades, stone sourcing has been a notoriously unethical and unsustainable business. With B Corp certification and a commitment to using only recycled and sustainably sourced materials, Blackacre promises pieces that feel as good as they look.

“Find a jeweller whose style you like, who works in a manner you enjoy and whom you can trust,” advises Stirrat. “For us, a bespoke creation is a collaboration with regular communication, so it is important to enjoy working with your chosen jeweller. Credentials such as B Corp certifications, client testimonials, word of mouth referrals or award wins can be key to helping establish trust.”

The bespoke process: step-by-step

While the nature of a bespoke creation means the process can be tailored to the client’s exact needs, Stirrat says there is a typical framework that Blackacre follows:

1. Phone consultation: We use this as a means to understand more about the initial brief and ideas. It also allows us a platform to offer up any initial advice (design considerations, timelines, price ranges etc). From here we are also likely able to set out what we expect the typical process to be.
2. Initial meeting and stone selection: Generally speaking, our designs are orientated around a specific diamond or gemstone, so we arrange an initial meeting to discuss design ideas in more detail. During this meeting we walk through how we create our jewellery and what makes a piece of jewellery high quality (as education is a key component of our work). We then walk the client through a curated selection of diamonds and gemstones specific to their needs.

3. Design: Once a stone has been selected, we set to work on the design. For most bespoke creations we create a design document that presents a number of concepts. Preparing a moodboard of creations you like, images that inspire you, emblems with meaning or details of the occasion can really help with this. There may be some subtle alterations at this point but generally clients are able to select their preferred concept which we take into the technical design phase.
4. Technical design: Now that we have a design concept in mind we can finesse the fine details to a tenth of a millimetre or less. After around 7-10 days we typically share the first version of a technical design. From here we make small adaptations to the design to ensure every detail is perfect.
5. Optional modelling: There is typically no need for clients to visit the studio to try pieces on, however, for more complex projects, we are able to prepare a wax model (that the client can even try on) to ensure it is perfect.
6. Creation: Over the course of the next 6-10 weeks (subject to design), we work through the following creation phases:.
   – Casting
   – Assembly
   – Setting
   – Polishing
   
   Where possible we seek to share verbal, photographic or even video updates from inside our workshop to allow clients to share in the joy of the creative journey.
7. Fitting: Once the creation is complete, clients are invited to view the final creation and ensure the fit is perfect. This is the most magical moment for us as we unveil our finished creation. For our fully bespoke end creations we also provide a hand painted render of the finished piece to accompany it, as we constantly seek new ways to bring more artistry to our work. Each painting is also one of a kind in nature.

How long does bespoke jewellery take?

Stirrat says: “Timelines can vary significantly depending on the complexity of the creation. Many jewellers will state a 10-12 week lead time for a bespoke creation but we typically allow 6-8 weeks for a bespoke creation once the design has been finalised and work has begun in our workshop.”

How much does bespoke jewellery cost?

Price can vary hugely based on the type and size of stone, the number of stones and the complexity of the setting but, given the man hours involved in bespoke design, be prepared to pay more than the sticker price you see for ready-to-wear designs. “We are always hugely respectful of price ranges but generally speaking most bespoke creations will start from around £10,000,” advises Stirrat.

Commissioning a bespoke piece of jewellery is a meaningful commitment, a celebration of a milestone that deserves thought, collaboration and creative freedom. For those seeking a truly exceptional experience, look to Blackacre, where attention to detail, skilled craftsmanship and meticulous execution from start to finish prevail in every creation. With flawless client testimonials, prestigious industry awards and a growing reputation as a rising star jeweller in London, Blackacre has become synonymous with bespoke jewellery that is timeless and unique, heartfelt and beautiful, to capture life’s most precious moments.

Discover more at blackacreldn.com