If you, or someone you know, has got divorced recently, you’ve likely come up against one of (many) thorny questions: what to do with the rings? For some the answer is simple. A family heirloom may go back in the jewellery box for the next generation; some may feel more comfortable returning the jewellery to sender; while, for those whose wedding and engagement bands are reminders of a particularly painful relationship, selling them may seem the only solution.

For many, however, it is not this easy. Maybe there are no children to pass an engagement ring on to, or perhaps a particularly valuable ring formed part of a divorce settlement but, understandably, feels inappropriate to wear. How, then, to take these reminders of a love lost and turn them into something that can be cherished and, importantly, worn again? Welcome to the world of ‘divorce diamonds’.

“Jewellery has always been used to mark moments in life, so it makes sense that people are starting to use it to mark transitions as well,” says London-based jeweller, Jessie Thomas. “For many women the idea of redesigning the ring allows them to reclaim the piece and turn it into something that reflects where they are now rather than what it represented before. In that sense it can feel like a positive gesture, celebrating independence and a new chapter.”

A ring redesigned by Lylie Jewellery (before)

(After)

Eliza Walter, founder of Lylie Jewellery, points to Emily Ratajkowski’s coining of the term ‘divorce ring’ in 2024 as the moment the idea really entered public consciousness. The actress repurposed her 3ct diamond engagement ring into a pair of new designs, which, Walter believes, empowered more women to reclaim their own jewellery in this way.

However, as she also points out, “Remodelling jewellery is an age-old practice, largely because of the inherent value and desirability of precious metals and gemstones. When it comes to divorce rings, we find clients often want to keep the jewel or jewels from their engagement ring but feel no emotional connection to the original metal or setting. Like Emily Ratajkowski, they tend to opt for entirely different designs to rehouse the stones, something that feels intentional, celebratory and clearly rooted in a new chapter of their lives.”

Of course, while this trend may feel new, it is intrinsically linked to the very reason marital rings were made from precious metals and stones in the first place. The old adage that an engagement ring should cost three months’ salary comes not from a desire for flashiness but from the idea that jewellery is a tangible store of wealth – a safety net should the family run into financial trouble later down the line or, in times when women were not encouraged to work or possess their own money, a lifeline in the event of death or divorce.

As Walter explains: “In English law, an engagement ring is regarded as an ‘absolute gift’ and, unlike many other assets acquired during a union, it belongs outright to the person to whom it was given. After a marriage ends, reworking that ring allows people to honour their past while reshaping it into something that reflects who they are now — not as a rejection of the story, but as an evolution of it.”

Lily Gabriella

Seen in this context, divorce diamonds become a reclaiming of the narrative around the end of a marriage and reflect a shift in the way society views divorce – no longer necessarily as an ending to be grieved but merely the beginning of a new chapter. “Divorce is no longer seen solely through a lens of failure; often it is simply part of life’s journey,” explains fine jeweller Lily Gabriella. “Jewellery, because it is so personal and enduring, becomes a beautiful way to mark that evolution. Ultimately, the pieces I create are about celebrating the wearer – their story, their strength, and the next chapter ahead.”

It also, says British jeweller Rachel Boston, marks a shift in the way we think about jewellery more generally. “Traditionally diamonds, for the average consumer, were linked only with marriage and given by a partner, but now women are buying and designing pieces for themselves to mark personal milestones. The idea of ‘divorce diamonds’ isn’t so much about the divorce itself. It’s more about independence and empowerment which are themes we see more in how people purchase and wear jewellery today.”

Rachel Boston

Engagement rings, in the large part, tend to be highly traditional solitaire or halo-set white diamonds. So, how are women having them reimagined into something more modern? “Because the stones usually come from existing engagement rings, we are seeing a strong preference for chunkier, Etruscan-inspired settings designed to be worn on the middle finger, intentionally removing any visual or symbolic association with a traditional engagement ring,” says Walter.

“Clients frequently come to me wanting to transform a diamond that carries history into something that reflects who they are today,” says Gabriella. “The redesign is usually quite different from the original piece – engagement rings tend to be traditional, whereas the new design is often more sculptural, modern or personal. Sometimes we reset the diamond into a completely new ring, a pendant, or even incorporate it into a more architectural design that feels empowering rather than sentimental.”

Jessie Thomas

In their new form, these pieces become heirlooms in their own right, destined to be passed on to children or grandchildren not with the express purpose of marriage, but as a reminder of a beloved mother or grandmother with her own sense of style and purpose. “Many clients still think about the longevity of the piece when redesigning it,” says Boston. “I think once a stone has been reset into something new, it becomes part of a different story which can absolutely continue as an heirloom.”

“When a piece is redesigned thoughtfully, it can take on an entirely new meaning that is just as worthy of being passed down,” concludes Gabriella. “Jewellery is rarely just about the original occasion it was given for – it becomes part of a personal history. A redesigned diamond can represent strength, reinvention and a new chapter, which can be a very powerful story for future generations.”

Read more: How to design a bespoke engagement ring